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Thread: Wanted: Spare Parts and Advice

  1. #1
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    Wanted: Spare Parts and Advice

    I'm looking at converting my old beat up hardtail to a rigid, single-speed, fendered, racked, all around town grocery grabbin bar hopping town bike.

    I'm looking for the following spare parts in order of importance:

    - Cheap rear wheel. Shimano 8/9 speed cassette compatible, and I plan on using one of those spacer/conversion kits.

    - Cheap V-brake levers. My current setup is the shifter/V-brake lever combo. Rather than hacksaw the shifters off, I thought I'd look for a non-ghetto alternative.

    And now my questions:

    - Those spacer/conversion kits seem to work well. Should I also use a chain tensioner (Surly singulator or similar)? The frame will have vertical dropouts.

    - I'm planning on just using my middle ring. Do I need to either obtain shorter crank bolts or somehow shorten my existing crank bolts?

    - I've seen some rigid 1-1/8" forks on ebay for reasonably cheap. Will V-brakes work well on Cantilever mounts? Admittedly, it's been awhile since I've messed around with V-brakes.

    - Anyone that's done a simlilar job, please chime in with some tips. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    http://www.mtbr.com/faq/ssfaq.shtml

    check out that link. It should answer most of your questions. you could you use your old derailluer as a tensioner, grind your outer ring to use as a bash guard etc. just depends on how little or much you want to spend.

  3. #3
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    You can get shorter crank bolts, but you can also use washers.
    Or grind 'em, if you can.

    You'll need something to keep the chain on the front ring, methinks. You can bolt on the old derrailleur or get a third eye. I dunno about this, though. Maybe ride it for a bit and see if it's a pain.

    Post pics when you get 'er done.
    It's idomatic, beatch.

  4. #4
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    By the way, what gear ratio are you going with?
    Last edited by Cornholio; 02-11-2005 at 01:06 PM.
    It's idomatic, beatch.

  5. #5
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    I think if I get the chain line and tension correct, I won't need something keeping it on in the front. I could be wrong, though.

    Thinking 2.2:1 to start...or whatever cogs I have laying around. It'll primarily be for crusing around town so I may step it up to something bigger.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I just converted my 12 year old steel hardtail this summer. I am running 32:16.

    pic here

    - V-brakes work fine on canti posts. In fact, I don't think there is a difference between canti and v-brake posts. My frame is definitely pre-vbrake ('92) and the XTs went on there fine.

    - I looked at those spacer conversion kits, like the Gusset that is at JensonUSA, but decided against it because you have no control over your chainline. If you are converting an old bike your chainline is kind of at the mercy of your current bottom bracket and crank. It's better to just cannibalize an old cassette and get the spacers out of it.

    - with vertical dropouts, you will need a tensioner (Singulator, Melvin, etc) unless you can find the "magic gear". (A chainring/cog combo that gives you good chain tension) That is kind of a pain in the ass, though. There are calculators and formulas, but they aren't perfect and require some trial and error. I lucked out because my frame has the old school forward facing semi-horizontal dropouts. I am able to run 2:1 (32:16) no problem.

    - check out a shop that still sells decent BMX stuff. You will be able to get the shorter chainring bolts as well as the venerable Shimano DX bmx cog in various sizes. ($5 for bolts, $5 each cog). Also, ask any shop if they have extra cassette spacers they want to get rid of.

    - if this is a townie bike, and you are looking for a higher gear, you may want to think about using your big ring w/ a larger cog in back to achieve the 2.2:1 ratio. If you use your middle ring, (which I am assuming is around 32t) you would need a 15t or 14t cog to get on the high side of 2:1. That leaves you with very little chain to tooth contact on the cog, which will wear fast and could lead to a big skip which can knock your teeth out.

    - I think I got my Deore level v-brake levers from my LBS for $15. Not too bad.

    edit:
    - one more thing... careful, IT IS FUN! You will find yourself wanting an Indy Fab custom blinglespeed in no time.
    Last edited by scoober; 02-11-2005 at 02:00 PM.
    As I rained blows upon him, I realized there had to be another way.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoober
    - V-brakes work fine on canti posts. In fact, I don't think there is a difference between canti and v-brake posts. My frame is definitely pre-vbrake ('92) and the XTs went on there fine.
    Don't you need one of those "power brake" conversion kits? With the little wheel that attaches to the V-brake? Or is that just if you're using canti levers?
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley
    Don't you need one of those "power brake" conversion kits? With the little wheel that attaches to the V-brake? Or is that just if you're using canti levers?
    Yeah, that's just if you want to use canti or road bike levers. It adjusts the amount of cable that is pulled (canti and v levers pull different amount of cable). The posts are just the mechanical connection to the frame or fork.

    One thing you may notice if this is a pre-v brake frame is that in the rear the chainstays will flex outward when really reefing on the rear brake. It affected one of my old aluminum frames the worst (visually) but I didn't really feel any reduction in braking power. Althoug, it can be fixed by getting one of those brake booster arches that bolt on each brake boss on top of the brakes.
    As I rained blows upon him, I realized there had to be another way.

  9. #9
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    homerjay

    or just buy my surly 1x1

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