Gardiner, Montana Info?

[snowave]

EDIT: no longer looking at Gardiner for info..general Montana stuff now..!


The lady might apply for a teaching job here..

I'm trying to get info on the place..Have visited a few web sites, city guide info, etc..but always like a first hand account of places..I know its on the Yellowstone north entrance, but the pictures make it look pretty dry and almost "plains like terrain"?..which doesn't necesarily appeal to me.

Also, how far is it from Big Sky, Bridger, Red Lodge, Jackson( open winter road)? Sure, I did the Yahoo maps, but that thing is always off on "real driving time"..

Thanks,
Sno

[Jumper Bones]

Umm, as far as I know, Gardiner is a long way from any resort skiing. The problem is, to access Bridger or Big Sky, you have to go UP the Paradise Valley, get in I-90 westbound, and go over the Bozeman pass into BZN itself. There is an exit halfway through BZN pass that goes over some hills and over into Bridger Canyon...but I'm not sure what shape it's in during the winter (it's a dirt road). Should be open most days. I'd say you'd be about an hour and a half from Bridger...probably 3 hours from Big Sky, since you'd have to drive IN to Bozeman, and then back out to Four Corners / Gallatin Gateway and then south. It'd probably be fastest to bypass Bozeman altogether and continue on I-90 until you hit Belgrade, and Jackrabbit Lane (which becomes the road south to Big Sky)...
I'd say you're probably 2 or so hours from Red Lodge also, since once again you'd have to drive up the valley, get on -90, and head east...
Jackson, don't think you'd be able to get to it, not directly anyway. To the best of my knowledge, the only road open, plowed and paved during the winter is the northern road, from Gardiner to Mammoth Hot Springs, then to Tower Junction, then to the Cooke City gate...otherwise the roads are covered in snow, and the only way to get around is by snowmobile or snowcoach. The only way to get to Jackson would be on Hwy. 191, through Big Sky - it'd take you about 5 hours, I'd guess.

However, the backcountry skiing there would be AMAZING. You're right at the feet of the Absorokee/Beartooth mountain ranges, within 2 hours of Beartooth Pass, all the stuff in the northern end of the park, the mountains around Cooke City (which are AMAZING, see this month's Couloir), Pilot Peak...and the biggest and most tempting of all, Emigrant Peak, is right there just up the Paradise Valley - it's right outside of Chico (Pray, MT). Plus, Chico hot springs is like a half an hour away...

...shitty place to be for a resort skier, but I can't imagine a better place to be as a BC skier, without living in a wierdo town like Cooke City anyway.

[FreakofSnow]

Well, Gardiner is pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Not a whole of work to be had, not much night life. Your closest decent sized town would be Livingston, which is about 1 hour away.

Bridger would be 1.5 hours, Big Sky about 2.5 and Red Lodge about 3. Good kayaking on the Yellowstone.

Pretty redneck and downhome, just like we like in Montucky.

Very seasonal town, mainly summer for YNP & rafting, fall for hunting. Some snowmobile traffic in winter.

Dry climate, sage etc. Lots of elk and bison roaming about. Big peaks around.

You cannot drive through YNP during the winter, except over to Cooke City, so to go to Jackson you would have to drive up to Livingston and through Bozeman, up to Big Sky etc. Hope that helps.

[Jumper Bones]

you know, I hate to say it, but I'd kind of like to live at a place like that!

I'm no hick, but the recreation in the area would have to be a good time.

[snowave]

Thanks for the heads up guys..

I assumed it might be a "bit" of a round about drive to get anywhere..especially Jackson..Although its currently 5.5 hours for me to get to Mammoth, but thats pretty much on open clear freeway and/or nice stright 2 lane with occassional passing lanes.(midweek anway!)

Looks like a bit more than I'd like to handle to live there, as I need a job also..I also require a bit of a town with some culture..

...not much into the BC thing at this point, although if I had that kind of easy access, I might be more inclined.

So what towns would you guys recommend living in or near that have a mediuim size pop,(less than Missoula) decent ski areas near (within an hour) decent cost of living and a few job opportunites. A "bit" of culture and nightlife/things to do. I know there's Bozeman, Whitefish/Kalispell, Missoula area, etc..



I also understand that Montana is the lowest state for income..I understand that jos are not a premium. I work for the Forest Service now, and if I can get lucky and get something theat opens up there, obviously, that would help matters..the lady is a teacher, but needs more than $20K that many places seems to be paying..I guess there's a reason things are the way they are up there. regardless, I want to try and get up there.

[FreakofSnow]

Thanks for the heads up guys..

I assumed it might be a "bit" of a round about drive to get anywhere..especially Jackson..Although its currently 5.5 hours for me to get to Mammoth, but thats pretty much on open clear freeway and/or nice stright 2 lane with occassional passing lanes.(midweek anway!)

Looks like a bit more than I'd like to handle to live there, as I need a job also..I also require a bit of a town with some culture..

...not much into the BC thing at this point, although if I had that kind of easy access, I might be more inclined.

So what towns would you guys recommend living in or near that have a mediuim size pop,(less than Missoula) decent ski areas near (within an hour) decent cost of living and a few job opportunites. A "bit" of culture and nightlife/things to do. I know there's Bozeman, Whitefish/Kalispell, Missoula area, etc..

I also understand that Montana is the lowest state for income..I understand that jos are not a premium. I work for the Forest Service now, and if I can get lucky and get something theat opens up there, obviously, that would help matters..the lady is a teacher, but needs more than $20K that many places seems to be paying..I guess there's a reason things are the way they are up there. regardless, I want to try and get up there.

Bozangles has "culture", but that is a relative term in Montana. Livingston is a whole lot cheaper than Bozeman. As far as Forest Circus gigs, Livingston has a good fire crew as does Big Timber. I worked in Big T for a season as Fire Prevention. Cool little town, not much going on other than some good fishing, mining, sheepherders, a kick ass rodeo, kayaking on a few play spots. Bozeman has a lot of FS jobs too. The nice thing about BZN is that you are obviously close to Bridger and only 1hr from Big Lie.

I just relocated to Missoula, its taking some adjusting, but in time it will be a close 2nd to Bozeman, there are 6 resorts w/in 2 hours up here. The weather is a lot more cloudy and PNW-like in NW Montana. The same would go to Whitefish.

As far as teaching jobs go, good luck really. The pay is not much more than 20k from what I know and jobs are very competitive as everyone has the same idea that you do. But you are in a good position having FS experience.

[snowave]

Thanks for the heads up..yeah, bozeman looks nice..never been there, but have heard nice things.

My lady actually applied for a FS teaching job in Darby, but she won't get it since there are some Vets ahead of her. Missoula looked pretty cool from what I could tell. I enjoyed Whitefish, but its getting kinda pricey from all the CA and other peeps moving up there buying real estate, along with alot of other palces I suppose.
Yes, I understand Culture is a relative term..so I probably should have used anther word. Btw, an FPT is a GREAT job..I
would love to do that someday. I work pretty close with out guys down here.

Yep, seems like everyone wants to get away now from the cities..I have wanted to for years, but never realistically could even think about it until now.

Thanks again for your help, and I may pick your brain in the future!

[Jumper Bones]

being college towns, the bar scenes in Bozeman and Missoula are pretty good.

Not good if you're expecting clubs or fancy stuff like that, but definitely good for meeting up with friends, drinking away, etc.

The universities in both towns provide a healthy dose of "culture" - there was an orchestra in Bozeman, as well as several theatre companies, shakespeare in the park, several festivals, etc...

every town in Montana, no matter how small, has at least one if not two bars. If there's a house there, there's a bar as well. Also why MT has the highest DUI rate in the nation.

I lived in Bozeman for 4.5 years. Good times had there.

btw - if you're a music fiend, you'll hate radio in MT. Plenty of country, but the rock stations generally suck. There's usually only one to choose from, and the "new" stuff they get is pretty old...and it gets overplayed, a lot. Bozeman had two rock stations when I was there - the Moose, which played a lot of abstract hippie rock, and the Peak, which was the biggest equivalent to pop-rock radio. Last I heard, the Peak is now classic rock...

Helena has a prison-rock station...Butte has a mullet-rock station...you get the point.

thank god for iTunes.

[monoman]

Hey snowave, you might check out Dillon. There are some good ski resorts fairly close and LOTS within the same drive time as Mammoth. Great fishing, cool college (little bit of culture), lots of character, old west type of town. I think theres a pretty big FS regional office or something there. It has a reputation of being the best run in Montana.

Its possibly my fav Montana town. I have thought alot about moving there instead of the Yaak. If you want any type of culture in Montana, you should probably look for a college town.

MM

[snowave]

Hey snowave, you might check out Dillon. There are some good ski resorts fairly close and LOTS within the same drive time as Mammoth. Great fishing, cool college (little bit of culture), lots of character, old west type of town. I think theres a pretty big FS regional office or something there. It has a reputation of being the best run in Montana.

Its possibly my fav Montana town. I have thought alot about moving there instead of the Yaak. If you want any type of culture in Montana, you should probably look for a college town.

MM

Hey monoman, how'd you get here!

Yes, I have seen a few USFS jobs out of Dillon, so I assumed it has a district office or something. I have heard the comparison to college towns and culture in Montana frequently, so thats something that I was keeping in mind. Although again,I must emphasize, "culture" is a relative term here I'm trying to get across when comparing it to Montana.. I'm not expecting too much, really...more or less just a tool term to entice the lady..

[bagtagley]

I spent a week in Gardiner a couple winters ago. Drive times are about dead on for Big Sky and Bridger, but most people we hung out with spent all they're time in the backcountry. It's a small town, so you won't have trouble meeting people. We stuck out like sore thumbs while we were there. Fortunately we had a local guiding us around.

There's definitely no shortage of things to do. Winter camping, BC skiing, hiking. It's secluded enough that you can get lost (in a good way) pretty quick. The guy we were staying with lived in a Tee Pee just outside Gardiner for almost a year with no problems. It was amazing, it was only a 20 minute hike from the road, yet he said he never once came across another person out there (that he didn't invite at least). You've also got the Yellowstone entrance at the end of town. In the winter it's dead, and the boiling river is about an mile in, so you can go have a soak after a long day.

There's definitely a redneck sorta vibe, but all the people we met were kind and gracious. If you do move there, make sure you're stocked up on long underwear, it gets damn cold there.

[monoman]

Hey monoman, how'd you get here!

Yes, I have seen a few USFS jobs out of Dillon, so I assumed it has a district office or something. I have heard the comparison to college towns and culture in Montana frequently, so thats something that I was keeping in mind. Although again,I must emphasize, "culture" is a relative term here I'm trying to get across when comparing it to Montana.. I'm not expecting too much, really...more or less just a tool term to entice the lady..

I guess you could say I have been Lurking for awhile. You know you might check out Idaho a bit too. I lived in Boise for 3-4 years. While Boise may not be what your looking for, McCall or Sandpoint are VERY cool towns. Way different vibe than Montana towns. Both have ski resorts (very nice) right in the backyard. McCall has probably some of the best whitewater in the world close and Sandpoint has a big ass lake and is closer to the Canadian resorts.

I know how you dont like Bishop but some of these towns are sort of similar but without the Mammoth traffic and with older cool buildings.

McCall and Sandpoint both have big FS district offices and the FS is alot better in Idaho than Montana! I emailed you a little story about Fernie a while back, did you get that? Heck I was planning on giving it another try Feb 4-6 but with the weather, Mammoth here I come!!!!

MM

[snowave]

I keep my eye out for Idaho too, but far fewer opportunities for both myself and wife from what I gather. We also have some relatives in C' delene and they are freaks.. I have gotten some wierd info from alot of people on Idaho in general..but not sure if that is fair.

Also looking now at 3 forks(NW of Bozeman). talked to some people there and it seems like a nice place, although a bit "valley like"(plains type of terrain?) compared to the mountain town vibe I was looking for. although, seems pretty close to some good ski areas.

Got the Fernie story, but I was kinda over the whole thing, so I didn't repsond. Nothing real earth shattering in the story to me, but thanks for sharing it...I did enjoy reading it.

Well, I should be in BC right now, but glad we cancelled. What a horrible year everyone up that way is having. Was lanning on going to Mammoth this week, but decided to save it since most of the new snow will arrive when I am leaving.

[monoman]

Wasnt meant to be earth shattering, just interesting... Good luck in your search.

MM