PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[waxman]

"the same shit that one could ascertain by doing a fucking search or even just paging back a few"

in the jongs defense the search function on here is terrible, much like the posting picture and quote features

it's a free resource and all but this may be the most bush league forum i'm familiar with

[coldfeet]

One can get decent search results by typing a query like "binding mount tools site:tetongravity.com" into google.

To mount your own fucking skis you can start with something like:
drill, drill bit, paper template, a real Pozidrive screwdriver - not a phillips and IMO not just a pozi bit, you need the length sometimes, center punch, ruler, proper mounting screws, A PAIR OF JUNK SKIS that you got at the thrift store or wherever. Maybe the correct tap if your skis need it (Some people can likely figure out how to deal with this, but they probably don't need advice for jongs.) Plus: masking tape and pencil and other normal stuff, and some basic mechanical common sense.

You can buy almost all of this shit easily, except the common sense. Mount the bindings to the junk skis, not to a 2x4. Expect to make some mistakes the first time around. Unscrew the bindings, figure out the mistakes and correct them before trying again. If you can't figure out the mistakes, or if you do something bad to the screws so that they can't be reused, take the bindings and good skis to a shop and have them do it.

[XXX-er]

"the same shit that one could ascertain by doing a fucking search or even just paging back a few" in the jongs defense the search function on here is terrible, much like the posting picture and quote features it's a free resource and all but this may be the most bush league forum i'm familiar with

I have seen the exact same question asked within 1page of this thread so whats that a couple of hrs , hence the suggestion to try a little harder? SO some folks could look a little harder and its obvious Some of these posters don't know which end of the screwdriver to use but thats what the thread is all about

[~mikey b]

you are totally right

AND

you are annoying


that’s ok - you give a shit and you’re engaged and invested in this ongoing conversation

carry on

[XXX-er]

you wana take over sport ?

[~mikey b]

naw you’ve got yer groove on keep it rolling if it makes you happy

I don’t have the time or the energy to get upset and respond at people asking the same questions repeatedly

carry on

[factive]

Is this entire thread not about helping people learn to mount their skis... and then someone comes in and asks a question to learn and gets attacked ??????

[XXX-er]

the people asking the questions will also give you grief the people who should just bareley be allowed to own tools will ask the same question over and over for 294 pages its like ground hogday




you are annoying




I will give you a tip if one is going to spend their whole life being annoying they learn pretty quick





to be right

[EricB]

Is there a comprehensive tool list on this thread already for what will make mounting your own fucking skis easy?

https://www.skitalk.com/threads/moun...-budget.26106/

Honestly, this is the best guide. And his templates are spot on.

[XXX-er]

That's actualy a pretty good ^^ guide I like that buddy drills pilot holes and uses a 5/32 cuz using tape I have drilled thru using a piece of tape tape but never with a stop block AKA a wine bottle cork like the epoxy

[thechad]

Thats a cool idea. I have a metal collar to set as a depth stop but it scrathes the top sheet. After a pilot and tepping up in size for BF or QK inserts it usually looks like crap.

[XXX-er]

Congratulations you are smart enough to see how shit works and are there fore not a total washout forma mechanical perspective ^^ prolly even know which end of the screwdriver to hold





I have had collars and tape markers slip as well but a stop block is idiot proof cuz all that can happen if the bit slips is you don't drill deep enough





a wine bottle cork will also let you hold the drill by the handle and the bit for mondo control and its small enough so you can see what you are drilling

[tgapp]

pretty stoked

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

[~mikey b]

yummy

[AlpiNord]

After my first test mount with SPX 11s, the forward pressure indicator is at about one click from the rear. One tooth position with tab moves 3mm and creates a conflict with the heel tech clip on my Quattros. When the boot is forced in, the indicator closer to center. I suppose I could shift the mount 1mm and the clip will barely clear and in theory move the indicator 1mm towards center. Worth splitting hairs here or let it ride barely in the indicator window? Which SPXs have the forward pressure screw adjustment vs the tabs with teeth? FTR it appears the SPX system with tab and tooth adjustment range is around 45mm, correct? Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools

[AlpiNord]

We'll see how the forward pressure holds up: Tools used: Screwed Bindings into layout tool to check fit and layout: Definitely perform a test mount to be sure how binding fits and adjusts: A couple reminders/tips to toss out:

• Rotate centerline tool 180 degrees to double check accuracy
• clamp straight edge
• secure skis to bench
• eyeball test mount with layout before drilling skis
• after punching holes, drill a few revolutions in reverse to assure there is no drill tip wandering
• check that bindings lay flat on skis
• use tootpick to remove glue bubbles & coat sides of holes

[EricB]

Just picked up a pair of Salomon QSTs. Wood core ski with just a titanal mounting plate.
The topsheet does not say 3.6 or 4.1, but has a code - G1.
Looking at an old manual from 2021 it shows G1 is a 4.1mm bit, but says NOT to tap. Anyone have experience not tapping a 4.1mm hole? Id be happy to skip that step if its not needed.
Perhaps its a thinner sheet of metal than a ski with real metal in it?
https://ibb.co/VYpK08M7

[MottN]

I think lots of people mounting their own bindings have done skis with a metal sheet without tapping. Maybe more than the amount of people who buy the correct tap...I know I have done without in the past.
It can be a little tricky to get the screws started straight, but then again sometimes its hard to get the tap started straight too. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

[AlpiNord]

Just picked up a pair of Salomon QSTs. Wood core ski with just a titanal mounting plate.
The topsheet does not say 3.6 or 4.1, but has a code - G1.
Looking at an old manual from 2021 it shows G1 is a 4.1mm bit, but says NOT to tap. Anyone have experience not tapping a 4.1mm hole? Id be happy to skip that step if its not needed.
Perhaps its a thinner sheet of metal than a ski with real metal in it?
https://ibb.co/VYpK08M7

Not sure what it would hurt if you did tap them? The screw shafts are 4.1mm and the metal won’t compress like the wood cores if you used a 3.5mm tip.

The above FX96s have a metal mounting plate with carbon/wood cores. 4.1mm x 9.5mm tip and 12AB tap.


Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools

[banzai]

I think lots of people mounting their own bindings have done skis with a metal sheet without tapping. Maybe more than the amount of people who buy the correct tap...I know I have done without in the past.
It can be a little tricky to get the screws started straight, but then again sometimes its hard to get the tap started straight too. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Use a drill block to guide the tap, its foolproof.

https://imgur.com/a/EfHFgLM

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[AK47bp]

Looking to unmount my own fucking skis and running into issues removing demo plate screws. Things won’t budge and don’t want to strip. Used a screwdriver and body weight and no movement. Any tips? I haven’t stripped them yet. Heat the screw to maybe soften any epoxy in there? I didn’t mount them so not sure what was used. Attack [emoji637][emoji639] demo bindings on a Kastle FX. Thanks


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[m2711c]

Impact driver

[XXX-er]

yeah SO if you have a 100Wsoldering iron many cheap irons are only 25W put the iron on the screw head and count to 10 if that does not work count to 20 and if you seee plastic bining shim start to melt STOP cuz it should be hot enough LOL










rif you don't owna soldering iron put a 1/4 in drill bit in your drill BACKWARDS and run the drill shank at high speed in either dirction







the friction will heat the screw and soften the epoxy do this ANY time a screw does not come out becuz you prolly do not know how the binding was mounted






some times a crew will not budge even if you do know you just used white glue in any case do not strip the head

[AK47bp]

Thanks. I’ll attempt the friction heat method. ?


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[XXX-er]

sure ^^ the drill bit method is really good to remember if you have DEEP screw holes in a binding or if for any reason you can't get a soldering iron at the screw head, i think i heard this on telemarktips WAY back in the day