PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[XXX-er]

Re the discussion about mounting the toe with one screw then drilling the other 3… Yall been smoking too much? That is Introducing so much more room for the toe piece to shift and be off-angle when you’re taking the boot in/out. Even if it doesn’t shift, there’s enough slop and tolerance in the bindings front to back that it’s more likely that you will think everything is square and aligned, but the toe is really actually a few degrees off angle. Particularly because on most toe pieces you cannot access all of holes with the boot in it to mark them. Also a terrible idea on alpine boots because locking in the heel will put too much forward pressure on the single toe screw, maybe on pin bindings it’s fine, but that doesn’t fix the alignment issues.

f

its too late, people are already using the Brian-tologist method and finding it works for tech and frame bindings to get the boot heel OR tail of binding dropping into the pins or rear of binding frame perfectly

besides that 1st screw you only need to get one other screw in ( easy ) or crank that 1st screw hard when the boot is locked into the binding which is where the boot will end up any how .

This method was not suggested for non-frame or non-tech bindings

which begs the question ... what have you been smoking ?

[altacoup]

I recommend emailing Quiver Killer and/or Binding Freedom for advice regarding spacing. Because the original holes contain the SS inserts, I’d think they are plenty rigid and could therefore potentially allow for a shorter than 1cm mounting distance to the new hole.

That said, it looks like you’re looking for a super close mount at 3mm or less if the center-to-center distance is about 7mm. Unless you are trying to fit the new holes between two sets of existing holes (third mount?), I’d probably just shift the new mount by 1/2 a cm or so.

Mount is on some hojis which are sensitive to mount point. Pin bindings all have fairly similar mounting patterns. But the skis were quiver killed for dynafit radicals which I find completely unskiable due to the ridiculous ramp angle. To bring the ramp angle to even skiable angle would necessitate an absurd toe stack. I have multiple binding ( shift, vario 2 [also needs custom toe shim ] marker alpinist) options but they all overlap. Shift has the most heel movement but either requires the 7mm distance or really fucking with the mount point and I really like hoji recommended mounts on all his skis.

[tgapp]

question for the professionals

I just scored a sick deal on some DW104s
they have two previous tele mounts
can I insert wooden dowels with good glue, chisel then flush, and then just mount on top of them?
what's the best way to manage the conflict?



Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

[AlpiNord]

Mount is on some hojis which are sensitive to mount point. Pin bindings all have fairly similar mounting patterns. But the skis were quiver killed for dynafit radicals which I find completely unskiable due to the ridiculous ramp angle. To bring the ramp angle to even skiable angle would necessitate an absurd toe stack. I have multiple binding ( shift, vario 2 [also needs custom toe shim ] marker alpinist) options but they all overlap. Shift has the most heel movement but either requires the 7mm distance or really fucking with the mount point and I really like hoji recommended mounts on all his skis.

How many of the holes are close? If it was me, I'd consider removing at least the nearby inserts and filling the holes with wood dowels & epoxy. Cure and reinstall the inserts in the new holes where you want them.

Heat the inserts w/soldering iron to soften the epoxy to extract them.

question for the professionals

I just scored a sick deal on some DW104s
they have two previous tele mounts
can I insert wooden dowels with good glue, chisel then flush, and then just mount on top of them?
what's the best way to manage the conflict?

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

Use epoxy instead of wood glue.

[jackattack]

question for the professionals
what's the best way to manage the conflict?

Drop the knee

[Shorty_J]

question for the professionals

I just scored a sick deal on some DW104s
they have two previous tele mounts
can I insert wooden dowels with good glue, chisel then flush, and then just mount on top of them?
what's the best way to manage the conflict?



Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

You really want to make sure the dowels are a little bit short so you can have a thin layer of epoxy on top to fully seal.

It's a bit of a pain but it's worth it IMO.

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk

[XXX-er]

yeah good idea IMO, i have done this ^^

[AlpiNord]

You really want to make sure the dowels are a little bit short so you can have a thin layer of epoxy on top to fully seal.

It's a bit of a pain but it's worth it IMO.

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk

Good idea. How do you shorten the wood dowels, skewers or plugs? A Japanese saw, an Irwin pull saw or Xacto miter saw work great for cutting dowels flush to top sheets. Seems like a little countersinking or drilling afterwords could quickly provide enough room for the epoxy cap/seal.


Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools

[ASmileyFace]

Good idea. How do you shorten the wood dowels, skewers or plugs? A Japanese saw, an Irwin pull saw or Xacto miter saw work great for cutting dowels flush to top sheets. Seems like a little countersinking or drilling afterwords could quickly provide enough room for the epoxy cap/seal.


Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools

I've always just used a pull saw equivalent to cut them flush, rasp or sharp chisel to get them closer, epoxy over the top and finish with a little fine sand paper after 24 hours to take down any excess. Perfectly flat sounds nice in theory, but I'm not sure it is worth the effort since I have never seen even the slight hump that might be left conflict with the new bindings going on. I like the idea of running a counter sink on the top to take it slightly below the topsheet through. Will try that next time.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

Mount is on some hojis which are sensitive to mount point. Pin bindings all have fairly similar mounting patterns. But the skis were quiver killed for dynafit radicals which I find completely unskiable due to the ridiculous ramp angle. To bring the ramp angle to even skiable angle would necessitate an absurd toe stack. I have multiple binding ( shift, vario 2 [also needs custom toe shim ] marker alpinist) options but they all overlap. Shift has the most heel movement but either requires the 7mm distance or really fucking with the mount point and I really like hoji recommended mounts on all his skis.

I would go for it at 7mm. The pullout strength and general structural strength of the insert far exceeds the strength of the ski core.

I fill binding holes with JB Weld Quick Wood epoxy putty and I’ve remounted bindings with holes touching and never had a problem. I’m 6’5” 245#.

The “Briantologist” method that XXXer posts about is the same way Lou Dawson used/recommended 20 years ago for Dynafits and published on Wild Snow. Probably where Brian read about it.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Shred Baron]

Although I’ve only a got a few remounts under my belt, I’ve been using skewers, and cutting them in a mitre box with a stop block, and a finish saw. It takes a couple try’s to set the block in the right spot, and you definitely get a couple that split and become useless, but once you’re set up, it’s just a couple of swipes with a saw to cut each. A usual, I probably make things a little more complicated than it needs to be, but it works.

[Shorty_J]

I just pre-cut the dowels a little short of the hole depth with an exacto blade, put epoxy in the hole, and then use a punch or similar to push the dowel down into the hole.

Some of the epoxy squeezes out past the dowel and onto the top, and I add a little more on top of there wasn't enough.

I haven't tried cutting flush with the topsheet and drilling down, but I was a bit worried about the bit wandering.

And then you have a second step of epoxy whereas my way is only 1 cure.

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk

[tgapp]

I just pre-cut the dowels a little short of the hole depth with an exacto blade, put epoxy in the hole, and then use a punch or similar to push the dowel down into the hole.

Some of the epoxy squeezes out past the dowel and onto the top, and I add a little more on top of there wasn't enough.

I haven't tried cutting flush with the topsheet and drilling down, but I was a bit worried about the bit wandering.

And then you have a second step of epoxy whereas my way is only 1 cure.

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk

How close can you mount to the old holes using this method?

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

[The Iron Horse]

I just pre-cut the dowels a little short of the hole depth with an exacto blade, put epoxy in the hole, and then use a punch or similar to push the dowel down into the hole.

Some of the epoxy squeezes out past the dowel and onto the top, and I add a little more on top of there wasn't enough.

I haven't tried cutting flush with the topsheet and drilling down, but I was a bit worried about the bit wandering.

And then you have a second step of epoxy whereas my way is only 1 cure.

This is great, thanks. I was doing it the other way (pull saw, rasp, counter sink, epoxy over top) but your way is much easier and, as you say, only one step.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

JB Weld Quick Wood putty has significantly more strength than wood dowels. You can drill, tap and sand it and it’s waterproof. Pack it in the holes let it cure and plane it smooth. Treat ski as new.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Cocximus]

Nylon screws FTW. I fixed my most butchered mount with them. Screwing something to the core + epoxy gives a much better mechanical connection.



Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro using Tapatalk

[EWG]

Good idea. How do you shorten the wood dowels, skewers or plugs? A Japanese saw, an Irwin pull saw or Xacto miter saw work great for cutting dowels flush to top sheets. Seems like a little countersinking or drilling afterwords could quickly provide enough room for the epoxy cap/seal.


Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools

I cut the dowels off with one of these (razor scraper). Works great if you have a sharp blade. FWIW, this is also how I remove puckering from previous mount holes. Carefully.

[The Iron Horse]

JB Weld Quick Wood putty has significantly more strength than wood dowels. You can drill, tap and sand it and it’s waterproof. Pack it in the holes let it cure and plane it smooth. Treat ski as new.

Ok. I don't know if it can get any easier than this. But now what do I do with all the dowels I have on hand?

Edit: Looking into this, it appears the JB Weld WoodWeld has greater strength. Overkill?

[Shorty_J]

JB Weld Quick Wood putty has significantly more strength than wood dowels. You can drill, tap and sand it and it’s waterproof. Pack it in the holes let it cure and plane it smooth. Treat ski as new.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I think I would find the putty difficult to fully pack in wich a tight hole, no?

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk

[Shorty_J]

How close can you mount to the old holes using this method?

Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

I'm not the kind of person who pushes these tolerances as far as they might be able to go so I have not done less than 1cm center to center.

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk

[MagnificentUnicorn]

[emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji637][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji639]]Ok. I don't know if it can get any easier than this. But now what do I do with all the dowels I have on hand?

Edit: Looking into this, it appears the JB Weld WoodWeld has greater strength. Overkill?

I’ve used that as well. I didn’t see much difference. I usually grab what’s on the hook at Ace.


Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums

[MagnificentUnicorn]

[emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji637][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]]I think I would find the putty difficult to fully pack in wich a tight hole, no?

Sent from my Pixel [emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]] using Tapatalk

I use a tool, in my case I use a pop rivet. Put a blob of putty over the hole and pack it in there until you can’t get anymore in. Let it cure and plane smooth.


Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums

[XXX-er]

I would go for it at 7mm. The pullout strength and general structural strength of the insert far exceeds the strength of the ski core.

I fill binding holes with JB Weld Quick Wood epoxy putty and I’ve remounted bindings with holes touching and never had a problem. I’m 6’5” 245#.

The “Briantologist” method that XXXer posts about is the same way Lou Dawson used/recommended 20 years ago for Dynafits and published on Wild Snow. Probably where Brian read about it.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

the thing with JB weld or any runny glue is that IME voids are left in the hole unless you put something solid in the hole which is why I use the BBQ skewer which I found in the kitchen on a dark and stormy night but if can scam some plugs from the ski tech I will use those. Everytime I look at the skis I used silver J/B weld on I think fuck is that stuff ever ugly on a ski top

I say 1cm as a " best practise " thing but put holes as close as you dare , I don't think any thing I put in the hole gives the ski core back its original strength either to resist breaking in half or the screw pulling out, but if it works it works ,

the Bri guy gave me the 30 sec " Briantologist metho " over his mounting bench, so for me it was an instant eureka moment but he never said where he got the method which apparently doesnt work but maybe if we say its the " Lou Dawson method " it will suddenly work ? The Bri guy did build the Hankin Evelyn ski area and was one of the 1st people ski touring around here originally for avalanche control

https://ca.video.search.yahoo.com/yh...3&action=click

IME if you go skiing with this guy he will make you carry something

[singlesline]

I just pre-cut the dowels a little short of the hole depth with an exacto blade, put epoxy in the hole, and then use a punch or similar to push the dowel down into the hole.

Some of the epoxy squeezes out past the dowel and onto the top, and I add a little more on top of there wasn't enough.

I haven't tried cutting flush with the topsheet and drilling down, but I was a bit worried about the bit wandering.

And then you have a second step of epoxy whereas my way is only 1 cure.

Sent from my Pixel 8 using Tapatalk

I grind mine down with a dremel and it only takes a second. But you do have to do the epoxy in two stages which adds a day to the overall time. I use a little digital scale that reads milligrams to accurately mix tiny batches of GFlex so at least I don’t have much waste.


To make things look good, color the top of your wood plugs with a sharpie that matches the top sheet. If you want to go overboard for exposed holes you can even try to add a little pigment to the top coat epoxy.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

the thing with JB weld or any runny glue is that IME voids are left in the hole unless you put something solid in the hole which is why I use the BBQ skewer which I found in the kitchen on a dark and stormy night but if can scam some plugs from the ski tech I will use those. Everytime I look at the skis I used silver J/B weld on I think fuck is that stuff ever ugly on a ski top

I say 1cm as a " best practise " thing but put holes as close as you dare , I don't think any thing I put in the hole gives the ski core back its original strength either to resist breaking in half or the screw pulling out, but if it works it works ,

the Bri guy gave me the 30 sec " Briantologist metho " over his mounting bench, so for me it was an instant eureka moment but he never said where he got the method which apparently doesnt work but maybe if we say its the " Lou Dawson method " it will suddenly work ? The Bri guy did build the Hankin Evelyn ski area and was one of the 1st people ski touring around here originally for avalanche control

https://ca.video.search.yahoo.com/yh...3&action=click

The key word for the epoxy is “putty” maybe you don’t recognize that word in Canada. You don’t get voids because you pack it in the holes with a tool. I’ve used skewers as well. I was using the epoxy wood putty to repair something around the house and I had an epiphany. Use it for binding holes! I never looked back to regular epoxy and skewers/dowels.

I’ve mounted several tech bindings in the manner you describe, it works. I was just giving perspective. I first used that method around 2008-9?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums