PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[DontTazeMeBro]

Been lurking a while but, thanks to this thread and all the awesome information passed on by many, I mounted my own effing skis last night. Measured thrice, drilled once, and all was good.

Can't see ever paying for that service again. Thanks, TGR!

(Can't post photo 'cause I'm new)

[rudy]

If the home brew methods are giving you trouble, just buy the proper bit. It's a relatively small investment that will probably last you a lifetime of mounts.

$15

http://www.tognar.com/binding-drill-...-adult-junior/

Why do the bits have a thread beyond the 9.5mm portion where the diameter gets significantly larger? Is there much of a chance to go beyond the intended depth?

[bern43]

Why do the bits have a thread beyond the 9.5mm portion where the diameter gets significantly larger? Is there much of a chance to go beyond the intended depth?

It gives you a little bit of a countersink to the hole. Helps prevent volcanoes. But you do need a light touch or you could get a little too much countersink.

[CaliBrit]

It gives you a little bit of a countersink to the hole. Helps prevent volcanoes. But you do need a light touch or you could get a little too much countersink.

Not all do, mine doesn't, hits a straight flats that you CANNOT drill past.

Truly proofed against this idiot.

[dschane]

Why do the bits have a thread beyond the 9.5mm portion where the diameter gets significantly larger? Is there much of a chance to go beyond the intended depth?

If you pushed really fucking hard, you could probably force it through. Otherwise, it stops and even smooths down the surface around the hole. So, I'd say no chance unless that was your goal.

[bern43]

Not all do, mine doesn't, hits a straight flats that you CANNOT drill past.

Truly proofed against this idiot.

Good to know. The ones I have seem to countersink pretty easily. I've got a tool to countersink by hand, which is much more controlled IMO. What drill bits are you using?

[Andeh]

I have the BindingFreedom bit, which seems to sink down if you push too hard (probably because insert drill dia. isn't that much smaller than the pre-milled drill tool dia.) , and the the BF countersink/debur tool, which works awesome. The area around the inserts I've done with it is perfectly smooth, unlike that around shop-installed normal mounts.

[rudy]

Not all do, mine doesn't, hits a straight flats that you CANNOT drill past.

Truly proofed against this idiot.

Wish I had know these existed before I order the other ones. I've used a dremmel to countersink in the past (prior to buying a real mounting bit) and would prefer the idiot proofing.

[AlpiNord]

Why do the bits have a thread beyond the 9.5mm portion where the diameter gets significantly larger? Is there much of a chance to go beyond the intended depth?

It gives you a little bit of a countersink to the hole. Helps prevent volcanoes. But you do need a light touch or you could get a little too much countersink.

Also, the 5/16"/8mm shank portion is designed to fit in mounting jigs and guides, including Jigarex and SVST.

[2FUNKY]

Mounted up these at the beginning of the season. Only had to remount the Lhasa heels for my bsl. Couldn't find a template for my daughters skis so I made one from the skis they came off. Did all these in an evening after work.

[rudy]

Used the bit and 1st mount was a success! Agreed that unless I was trying the bit just countersunk slightly and would be hard to go to deep. Thanks all.

[klauss]

Mounted the lady's nordica hells belles with Sth10 binders. hand tools by slidewright

[PlayItLeo]

Mounted up some more of my own fucking skis. Reshuffled the quiver and pulled some Sollys off of some S3s, plugged the holes with dowels and epoxy, and remounted with EPF tours. I'm embarrassed to admit this was the first time I've mounted skis without having a beer(s), but in my defense, it was the middle of the day.

[HHTELE]

I have an older Dynafit Jig. Have tried a couple different ways to get the front holes, which have worked, but not perfectly. Good mounts, but maybe not precise enough if I want to go to inserts.

Have had similar issues with other stuff, with the binding exactly where I want it, maybe held by a screw or 2, want to precisely center punch the binding holes.

Got these.












I think this may end up working well to get Fritchi heels lined p as well.

[HHTELE]

What I have been looking for was something that fit into the binding to use the binding as a jig.

Just freehanded some old Naxos. Put the middle heel screw in first, and basically used the binding as a Jig, going one step at a time insured that the bar went in and out of the heel piece easily.

Pretty quick mount. Faster than paper jigs for me.

[Timberridge]

So regarding these stepped Armada bits since I've never seen one. I can just use a 3.6 and then chase the hole down (how many) mm from the top with a 4.1 and accomplish the same thing?

[Shorty_J]

So regarding these stepped Armada bits since I've never seen one. I can just use a 3.6 and then chase the hole down (how many) mm from the top with a 4.1 and accomplish the same thing?

Not sure the specifics of an Armada bit... but if you are drilling a metal topsheet and need a 4.1mm, you really only NEED the 4.1 to get through the metal layer on the topsheet... so 3.6mm for most of the hole and a little bit of 4.1 at the top should be fine.

[shroom]

I've done 5-10 armada mounts with just a 3.6 and the grip strength of a small ape. no issues.

[Timberridge]

Not sure the specifics of an Armada bit... but if you are drilling a metal topsheet and need a 4.1mm, you really only NEED the 4.1 to get through the metal layer on the topsheet... so 3.6mm for most of the hole and a little bit of 4.1 at the top should be fine.

Thanks!

Shroom, those Armadas you drilled had metal though? The specific ski I was mounting is the ARVti. I think 3.6 without the 4.1 chase on the ARVti would create Mt. Vesuvius when I tightened things down.

[shroom]

naw, no metal. I thought they'd always pushed their stepped bit, regardless of metal presence. I've honestly always just used 3.6, metal or not on my skis, but I should probably not recommend that.

[Shorty_J]

I think 3.6 without the 4.1 chase on the ARVti would create Mt. Vesuvius when I tightened things down.

Probably, yes.

Do you have access to an #12AB tap? It's ski screw thread matched and is a very good idea with metal topsheets to further reduce the chance of volcanoes.

[gregL]

Do you have access to an #12AB tap? It's ski screw thread matched and is a very good idea with metal topsheets to further reduce the chance of volcanoes.

If you do this, the hole and threads will be appropriate regardless of whether your drill bit is 3.6mm or 4.1mm (and you should anyway with Titanal in the binding mount area). Countersink or shave the topsheets over the holes as well, even when drilled with the right bit there will be a tiny bit of volcano-ing.

[Timberridge]

The tap is a good idea, I do not have one in my tool kit, so this mount is a good excuse to finally buy one. So I can achieve the same result by drilling a 3.6 hole and using just the tap? I ask because it would eliminate the rather delicate step of chasing the 3.6 hole with a 4.1, and the less steps, the better.

[Shorty_J]

The tap is a good idea, I do not have one in my tool kit, so this mount is a good excuse to finally buy one. So I can achieve the same result by drilling a 3.6 hole and using just the tap? I ask because it would eliminate the rather delicate step of chasing the 3.6 hole with a 4.1, and the less steps, the better.

I've never tried tapping a 3.6 for a metal topsheet because I have 3.6 and 4.1 collared ski bits... so I drill the 4.1 and tap. If you're ordering the tap anyway, I don't think the 4.1 bit is much more to add to your order... but it's up to you. And if you're ordering things anyway, I highly recommend having 10-20 of the nylon tap-in inserts sitting around. They're super cheap and a very effective way to deal with any spinners you get (without having to use heli-coils).

But it sounds like it's OK from what gregL says.

These are the inserts...
http://www.slidewright.com/nylon-tap...serts-10pk.php

Post script... I didn't see a stop-collared 4.1 bit on slidewright.... I personally don't like the idea of the bits the bevel the hole at the same time... I prefer to change bits and do that myself. One step for getting the depth perfect and another to clean it up.

[Timberridge]

I have the 3.6 and 4.1 chamfer bits...somewhere. I have not used them much lately because I've been doing all my mounts w/ inserts. But this friend does not want them.

I'm going to order that tap though.

Was not aware of those nylon inserts, which seem better than steel wool and epoxy. I learn something new everyday on TGR, thanks.