PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[~mikey b]

one thing I've done in the past is drill the 3.5mm hole, then take a screw and carefully, partially screw it in to the ski using the drill, then back it out, add glue and mount

[waveshello]

I helped my youngest brother mount his skis over the weekend, and I realized I've been doing it wrong all along. The secret to a successful and fun binding mount is to care less, haha. He'll probably outgrow this setup before next season, and we spent about $20 on it so no pressure.

Skis--rossi bandit 150something cm goodwill find
Bindings--look TT-08 also gw find (DIN down to 5)

I helped him with the templates, showed him how to find the center line, let him do most of the center punching, drilling, gluing and screwing. Turned out perfect and we got it done in an hour. I think he'll be able to do the next pair on his own... As long as they're not mine!

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[waxloaf]

May want to drill a single hole and give it a test spin before drilling 16 holes to find out they are all too small. You can always hit ‘em w a 4.1 after the fact. I’ve had some screw wrestling matches that likely could have been avoided using a slightly larger bit size.

This - don’t drill a bunch of 3.5s only to find that you needed a 4.1 the whole time.


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[gregL]

another jong question - i can't find this anywhere on BD's website, but i'm mounting a pair of Cirque84's and they have a titanal mounting plate; does that mean i need to use 4.1 or can i use 3.5/3.6mm drill bit?

Any ski with a Titanal plate normally takes a 4.1mm bit.

If all you have is a 3.5, I would suggest tapping the holes after drilling with a 12AB tap (I would do this even if I used a 4.1). Screws will go in like buttah.

Actually I would suggest buying a 4.1, you'll end up using it more than the 3.5. Of the three skis I mounted in the past week, I used the 4.1 twice, the 3.5 once, and the 12AB tap 3 times.

[tgapp]

Any ski with a Titanal plate normally takes a 4.1mm bit.

If all you have is a 3.5, I would suggest tapping the holes after drilling with a 12AB tap (I would do this even if I used a 4.1). Screws will go in like buttah.

Actually I would suggest buying a 4.1, you'll end up using it more than the 3.5. Of the three skis I mounted in the past week, I used the 4.1 twice, the 3.5 once, and the 12AB tap 3 times.

Appreciate the advice. I just found a 4.1 and a 3.5 on ebay, now I just gotta wait for the damn jig to show up

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[stec06]

Used a jig from Mikey b to mount up some new-to-me Amps...general screw around ski for this season.

[~mikey b]

right on

[stec06]

right on

First time using a jig and it was stupid easy. I dimpled the base of one ski, though, but was able to back the insert out a bit and it seemed to go away. Thanks for selling it!

[~mikey b]

I did that too a few years back.

You figured out proper mount point voodoo with that thing?

makes me happy to see it on someone else’s bench

[phatboy64]

I am looking for a 12AB tap can you get then at local HW stores or only online? Also am I correct in assuming you can use the tap regardless of the hole being 3.5 or 4.1?

[stec06]

I did that too a few years back.

You figured out proper mount point voodoo with that thing?

makes me happy to see it on someone else’s bench

Yeah, it turns out the first hole for the heel piece on that jig is just about boot center for size 27 Scarpa shells... so I just put that over the recommended alpine line and drilled. Very slick!

[~mikey b]

nice

[cstefanic]

187 Protests at -1.5 with inserts for Jesters.

[gregL]

I am looking for a 12AB tap can you get then at local HW stores or only online? Also am I correct in assuming you can use the tap regardless of the hole being 3.5 or 4.1?

Local hardware store is a remote possibility.

Try here: https://www.slidewright.com/snoli-12...readcutter.php

or here: https://www.tognar.com/alpine-ski-bi...ting-tap-12ab/

or here: https://www.artechski.com/wintersteiger-ski-screw-tap/

Yes, you use it with either hole size.

[~mikey b]

slidewright is run by a maggot - Alpinord - you can get a discount

[gregL]

Local hardware store is a remote possibility.

Try here: https://www.slidewright.com/snoli-12...readcutter.php

or here: https://www.tognar.com/alpine-ski-bi...ting-tap-12ab/

or here: https://www.artechski.com/wintersteiger-ski-screw-tap/

Yes, you use it with either hole size.

Actually, I prefer having the handle separate (larger diameter): https://www.slidewright.com/alpine-s...dle-wrench.php

[ntblanks]

Local hardware store is a remote possibility.

Try here: https://www.slidewright.com/snoli-12...readcutter.php

or here: https://www.tognar.com/alpine-ski-bi...ting-tap-12ab/

or here: https://www.artechski.com/wintersteiger-ski-screw-tap/

Yes, you use it with either hole size.

I have read that the tap is really just to thread the metal laminate; that one should not tap past/deeper than that, regardless of construction. Do you have thoughts on that, gregL?

[gregL]

I have read that the tap is really just to thread the metal laminate; that one should not tap past/deeper than that, regardless of construction. Do you have thoughts on that, gregL?

Sure I do.

Ski manufacturers will often print "4.1, glue, tap" on the topsheet of metal laminate skis (and if they don't, or you drill with a 3.5 and pull up metal shards, you should still tap).

Even if not specifically stated on a non-metal laminate ski, I think cutting clean holes with a tap rather than grinding away at the material (and pulling up some of it as the screw threads catch) causes less stress to the fiberglass/epoxy layer than just ramming the screws in. Shops almost always bypass this step because, well, it takes more time.

As for depth, it doesn't do much good to go further than the top layer (topsheet, Titanal, and the fiberglass just under the metal) - if you go until you feel pressure there is a good chance you will dimple the base.

[tuco]

I have a pair of G3 Highballs that called for 3.5 on the sticker and they have a titanal plate. They had a tap icon too. Only time I've ever seen 3.5 w/ titanal.

I have a buddy that drills everything w/ the 4.1. Says he never gets spinners

[DarthMarkus]

I have a pair of G3 Highballs that called for 3.5 on the sticker and they have a titanal plate. They had a tap icon too. Only time I've ever seen 3.5 w/ titanal.

I have a buddy that drills everything w/ the 4.1. Says he never gets spinners

I'd usually use whatever bit the ski called for for customer skis. But when it came to my own, I'd use the armada step-down bit most of the time. Particularly nice for skis that had a metal layer, but weren't running a full two sheets.

I wouldn't want 4.1 holes in any skis with synthetic core though... kinda asking to rip screws out.

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[~mikey b]

slidewright sells a 4.1 with an adjustable stop collar

2x the $ as a fixed bit, but gives you flexibility

[tuco]

I'd usually use whatever bit the ski called for for customer skis. But when it came to my own, I'd use the armada step-down bit most of the time. Particularly nice for skis that had a metal layer, but weren't running a full two sheets.

I wouldn't want 4.1 holes in any skis with synthetic core though... kinda asking to rip screws out.

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Skis w/ 2 titanal layers usually have second layer at the bottom of the laminate, above the base.
I hear you on the lighter skis and for those models I wouldn't doubt he changes out.

[Adrgha]

Mounted some Billygoat 108 Tour 50/50's with ATK R12's with freeride spacers tonight. Purely from a cosmetical standpoint, they match quite nicely. 2325 grams in total. Perfect.

[waveshello]

Mounted some Billygoat 108 Tour 50/50's with ATK R12's with freeride spacers tonight. Purely from a cosmetical standpoint, they match quite nicely. 2325 grams in total. Perfect.

Wow gorgeous. Heart eyes.

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[phatboy64]

Sure I do.

Ski manufacturers will often print "4.1, glue, tap" on the topsheet of metal laminate skis (and if they don't, or you drill with a 3.5 and pull up metal shards, you should still tap).

Even if not specifically stated on a non-metal laminate ski, I think cutting clean holes with a tap rather than grinding away at the material (and pulling up some of it as the screw threads catch) causes less stress to the fiberglass/epoxy layer than just ramming the screws in. Shops almost always bypass this step because, well, it takes more time.

As for depth, it doesn't do much good to go further than the top layer (topsheet, Titanal, and the fiberglass just under the metal) - if you go until you feel pressure there is a good chance you will dimple the base.

Greg if I understand this right, I would only tap the first few threads, just enough to clear the top coat to the start of the core is that right?