That's a pretty wet looking dry-suit !! But I should talk, I used a heavy-duty Viking rubber commercial diving dry-suit for surfing the Homer break....that thing was bulky as hell, but I was warm. A friend of mine used a neoprene survival suit (the orange 'Gumby' suit) to surf outside of Dutch Harbor and he actually was able to get up in the damn thing...but he was an ace cali surfer.
Looks like in the last picture you were actually getting close to a good pop-up...if the wave was a little longer, you probably would have that time.
Practice, practice, practice....!!!!
Once you stand-up on your first wave, it's a rush you won't forget!!!
"The reason death sticks so closely to life isn't biological necessity - it's envy. Life is so beautiful that death has fallen in love with it; a jealous, possesive love that grabs at what it can." by Yann Martel from Life of Pi
Posted by DJSapp:
"Squirrels are rats with good PR."
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