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Thread: online site for taps/drill bits

  1. #1
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    online site for taps/drill bits

    Have my new freerides, and the t@nkers are waiting for them. I want to mount them myself, so I need a tap and bit. Suggestions?

  2. #2
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    From memory, JONG me if I'm wrong.

    A 4.1mm is the bit size for metal. If you can't find one of these, use a 5/32. It is close enough. The right tap is either a #12 or size like the bit. You can buy them at tongar. Are you asking how to do it, or when to buy the stuff? I thought Summit was a shop monkey?

  3. #3
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    dude, i have about 10 drill bits floating around the house. you can have one.
    no worries.

    edit: the right size is 4.1 x 9.5 (depth)
    Last edited by marshalolson; 12-20-2004 at 06:34 PM.

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  6. #6
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    I have a ski-specific 4.1 mm bit and the #12 tap you're welcome to borrow next time I make it up to summit county 7890631489. Probably won't be the end of the month.

  7. #7
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    if you have a question for me, why not ask directly?

    damn!

  8. #8
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    thanks everyone. Looks like Marshal is going to throw me some bits during a binding exchange. Still need a Tap.

  9. #9
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    actually, when we meet up, i'll just bring my jig and drill.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson
    actually, when we meet up, i'll just bring my jig and drill.
    you have a freeride jig?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlurredElevens
    Still need a Tap.
    For what? The screws? How about just a screwdriver, leave Tap outta this he's got yung'uns to worry about. Seriously, no need for a tap. Don't believe they even make one in ski screw thread (4 x.5?). Let alone a bottoming tap. Which is what you'd need it there were such a beast.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schralper
    For what? The screws? How about just a screwdriver, leave Tap outta this he's got yung'uns to worry about. Seriously, no need for a tap. Don't believe they even make one in ski screw thread (4 x.5?). Let alone a bottoming tap. Which is what you'd need it there were such a beast.
    Sheet of metal in the T@nkers bro. Talking freerides here....

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schralper
    For what? The screws? How about just a screwdriver, leave Tap outta this he's got yung'uns to worry about. Seriously, no need for a tap. Don't believe they even make one in ski screw thread (4 x.5?). Let alone a bottoming tap. Which is what you'd need it there were such a beast.
    Uhhh..every ski shop should be using a tap. It is not mandatory but it the proper way to do it.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlurredElevens
    you have a freeride jig?
    yup.... ask, and you shall recieve.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlurredElevens
    Sheet of metal in the T@nkers bro. Talking freerides here....
    Is that metal some how tougher than that on Explosiv's? Cuz I've mounted my freerides on 2 pr of them, without a tap. Aren't you suppose to drill thru the metal sheet?
    Ok, I bite, so what's the proper tap size/thread? Cuz I aint ever seen a wood screw tap.

  16. #16
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    You are right. It is not mandatory.


  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
    You are right. It is not mandatory.

    Fine, but that still doesn't tell me which size tap to use.
    BTW-the tap pictured is NOT a bottoming tap.
    How thick are your skis? Cuz I've only got a few mils of ski to tap into. The binding screws are approx. 5mm long. Are you tapping in 2 mm just to make sure the screw goes in straight? I dont understand.
    Educate me, pleez. I've never seen any shop tap binding holes, AT or alpine. New K2 tele inserts but those threads ARE machine screw thread.
    So..............

  18. #18
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    my tap is about 3" x 8" ....i've drilled a few things tougher than metal top sheets...but they certainly weren't "free" rides

  19. #19
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    Its a #12 tap. No it is not bottoming althought the one I used to use had an adjustable collar. I don't know if it is neccessary, I've never pulled out a binder either way. Some ski manus recommend tapping.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles
    Its a #12 tap. No it is not bottoming althought the one I used to use had an adjustable collar. I don't know if it is neccessary, I've never pulled out a binder either way. Some ski manus recommend tapping.
    #12 tap? Machine screw pitch? What's the thread pitch/size? Is it metric, SAE or ??
    Since a bottoming tap makes threads to the bottom of blind hole, read ski's w/o holes all the way thru the base. What good is a reg. tap if it's only tapping in 1-2 mm? If anything a tapped hole would pull out worse, considering the coarse thread pitch. Fine pitch threads = more contact area, stronger, ie. K2 tele insets. To cure the pulled out tele binder issue.
    Do you tap before using wood screws to hold stuff together? I think not. Thats the idea of the coarse threads, to cut into the wood/foam and hold.
    I've NEVER ripped a binder out, either even w/ 14-16 din setting. I 've tried. Isn't that the idea of a releaseable binding to let go before ripping your ACL/binder out?

  21. #21
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    Pretty sure tapping is said to be necessary to pre-deform titanal or other metal layers so the screwing-in doesn't deform them such that the ski experiences internal delamination. #12AB tap -- specific to the standard (for the ski industry) Pozidrive#3-headed screws we use for mounting ski bindings.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti
    Pretty sure tapping is said to be necessary to pre-deform titanal or other metal layers so the screwing-in doesn't deform them such that the ski experiences internal delamination. #12AB tap -- specific to the standard (for the ski industry) Pozidrive#3-headed screws we use for mounting ski bindings.
    200+ of the rental skis in the shop have metal top sheet...none tapped, no internal delamination....a fair few of the non metal top sheet skis have stripped screws from exessive use of power drivers!.....I've only ever met one shop that claimed to tap binding holes...never seen one that actually does.

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