Check Out Our Shop
Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 76 to 100 of 171

Thread: Carbon dork

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    6,255
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    this might be blasphemy, but i feel that way ^^^ more about skis than i do bikes. but i agree, i feel that way about both
    Well sure, bikes take a lot more monkeying around with to get them there. Skis are pretty much just skis... aside from mounting points. I'm just saying that once you get a bike dialed, it's kinda hard to feel totally in sync with it if you're switching up components all the time.
    I'm so hardcore, I'm gnarcore.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    2,315
    With ya on the ski thing Marshal.
    I also only have one bike setup and like it that way... However after three days at Whistler my hands tell me they think a DH bike may be a good idea.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    4,125
    I would rather have a one ski quiver for every type of conditions and 3 bikes for various kinds of riding. one ski I can get used to in powder, trees, steeps, b/c etc.

    one bike, blah, need 3 minimum.
    "A man on foot, on horseback or on a bicycle will see more, feel more, enjoy more in one mile than the motorized tourists can in a hundred miles."
    — Edward Abbey (Desert Solitaire)

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    North Vancouver
    Posts
    6,473
    Perfect world is a quiver of three.

    Bikes:
    29er Hardtail for XC - light trail
    140-160mm Trail / AM bike. Covers everything if it needs to. Your pick how much weight you want to tote around.
    DH bike - For well duh DH

    Skis:
    >90mm lightweight touring ski
    90-105mm Do anything and do everything ski. Should have touring bindings
    110mm+ Fatty for well skiing deep or anything you want.

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,076
    My ski quiver is more like 12 pair at this point because I have tele, alpine, and dynafiddle. I'm such a dork that I actually try to pick skis and adjust mounting locations so I don't need to adjust technique much to switch between them. They are preadjusted for the conditions of the day I will say it used to mess me up a lot to switch gear and some days it takes longer then others to adjust. The more fit I am the faster I can adjust. In the end, if I chose the right ski for the right day I feel like I can do no wrong (at the level that I ski at anyways ). I rarely felt that way when I just skied one ski every day.

    Bikes are similar for me, once I started getting bikes that were more similar in geo during riding I found it much easier to switch between them. The changes I make to setup don't really throw me off in any way, they just feel right for those conditions. Throwing in the road bike once in a while keeps me on my toes but has really helped my ability to feel comfortable on most any bike in a few minutes.

    In the end, I love tinkering with bikes and skis as much as using them and that's why I do what I do.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,076
    I blame Particle. Thanks a lot J


    For Trail riding...

    Frame: Med HD 160 w/ Kashima RP23
    Fork: 170mm Lyric Solo Air - 1-1/8" steerer - DH damper
    Headset: Cane Creek 110 (Zero stack upper, external lower) - 10mm spacers under stem
    Stem: 70mm Chromag Ranger
    Bars: 710mm Noir Carbon Riser Bars
    Shifters: SRAM XX
    Brakes: Avid Elixer CR's (last gen) (203mm F, 185 R)
    Grips: Lizard Skin Peaty Lock-on
    Cable Housing: Jagwire L3 - Blue, (If I can't be pretty at least my bike can)
    Seatpost: 4" Gravity Dropper (old now, but reliable and the cable attachment is fixed in place)
    Saddle: WTB Silverado SLT
    Front Derailleur: SRAM XO High Direct Mount
    Cranks: SRAM XX 26/39 w/ 166Q-factor
    Pedals: Crank Brother Candy 3
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM XX
    Cassette: SRAM XX 11-36
    Chain: SRAM 1091R
    Front Hub: WTB Super Duty 20mm
    Rear Hub: American Classic Disc 225 - converted to 142x12mm (note - added 0.5mm shim to shift cassette away from frame)
    Spokes: DT Swiss Supercomps
    Rims: Stans Crest w/ yellow tape
    Tires: 2.25 Hutchnison Cobra, love this tire for Utah XC riding, fast and rails corners
    Sealant: Caffe Latex (while it's not gonna seal a gash I find it seals up a tire well for the long haul and doesn't soften the casing like Stans does.)

    Weight: 27.8lbs

    For more serious riding in places like Moab, or legit jump trails, I switch a few items...

    Front Hub: Hadley 20mm (Santa Cruz logo'd)
    Rear Hub: Hadley 108pt converted to 142x12mm
    Spokes: DT Swiss Supercomps
    Rims: Stans' Flow's w/ yellow tape
    Tires: Kenda 2.35, BBG's
    Pedals: Diety Decoy LT's

    Weight: 29.8lbs

    Chain Guide: waiting for the new MRP X2 for this bike...please, please, please Ibis and MRP
    Would consider going to a coil as well, especially since I have the right size Ti spring already.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,710
    Damn, that is a sweet ride, phatfreehealer.

    One thing I've noticed is that very few people have the 140/140 HD set up. Nor are there any reviews of that set up. I wonder why that is.

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,076
    Thanks AK...

    I believe it is because most people who would want the strength of the HD and only 140mm of travel also want <68 deg HA and <13.5" BB. If I had gone that route I might have just waited till next year and bought an SL-R, but I was a bit scared it would not survive long with me riding it and casing jumps

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    ATF biatch!!
    Posts
    78
    So those of you who have ridden the HD with a coil shock and the RP23, how does the pedaling experience differ?

    I've had a couple rides on a couple different HDs, both with RP23s ("low" tune), and I was left wanting a coil on the descent- the frame is soooo solid that the overdamped RP23 felt like it was the weak link in the operation.

    I played with the pressures, and found that what worked well on the climbs was 10-15psi too much for the descents. That still doesn't fix the overdamped shock though....

    Is an HD with a coil shock an acceptable "enduro" bike or is it just to soft/plush/active to pedal for extended periods of time?

    Think a Cane Creek DBair fits in there?

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,710
    Quote Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler View Post
    Thanks AK...

    I believe it is because most people who would want the strength of the HD and only 140mm of travel also want <68 deg HA and <13.5" BB. If I had gone that route I might have just waited till next year and bought an SL-R, but I was a bit scared it would not survive long with me riding it and casing jumps
    Fair points. As far as I can tell though, the SL-R doesn't have any significant advantage over the HD. The weight difference, in my recollection, is marginal. If I had the money, I'd build up a HD 140 with a Revelation and maybe use an Angleset headset to slacken it out a little (if necessary). But now that I think about it, I think hardboiled has the smaller set-up HD.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    348
    Quote Originally Posted by AKbruin View Post
    Fair points. As far as I can tell though, the SL-R doesn't have any significant advantage over the HD. The weight difference, in my recollection, is marginal. If I had the money, I'd build up a HD 140 with a Revelation and maybe use an Angleset headset to slacken it out a little (if necessary). But now that I think about it, I think hardboiled has the smaller set-up HD.
    yup, I'm running 150/140 on mine. too bad N* didn't work out this weekend, I was going to suggest swapping bikes for a run. I'm digging it in "little bike" mode. it's got a ~67.5* HA and ~13.2" BB w/ 2.35 tires. I've contemplated getting slacker headset cups or putting my Lyrik back on but really, it's pretty dialed as is. I'll prob try it with the Lyrik this winter just cuz it's gathering dust but having ridden the forks back to back, it's hard to justify the extra 1+lb for 10mm additional travel and a marginal stiffness gain. the Revelation w/ tapered steerer and 20mm axle is pretty solid up front and very underrated IMO.

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,710
    Quote Originally Posted by hardboiled View Post
    yup, I'm running 150/140 on mine. too bad N* didn't work out this weekend, I was going to suggest swapping bikes for a run. I'm digging it in "little bike" mode. it's got a ~67.5* HA and ~13.2" BB w/ 2.35 tires. I've contemplated getting slacker headset cups or putting my Lyrik back on but really, it's pretty dialed as is. I'll prob try it with the Lyrik this winter just cuz it's gathering dust but having ridden the forks back to back, it's hard to justify the extra 1+lb for 10mm additional travel and a marginal stiffness gain. the Revelation w/ tapered steerer and 20mm axle is pretty solid up front and very underrated IMO.
    That pretty much sounds like my ideal set up. What's the weight? I want a 5.5-6" bike that weighs around 27 pounds, pedals well and without the need for constant propedal adjustments, a HA between 67 and 68, and a BB around 13.5. Oh, and it'd be great if I could swing it for under $3500. It's that last requirement that's my biggest problem.

    I totally would have been down to switch bikes at N*. My Rose-to-Toads attempt was a spectacular failure--I fucked my (literally) brand new derailleur within the first 30 minutes and ended up cutting out at Chimney, which still made for a good ride. There's a chance I might be in the Bay Area this weekend. Is Solstice open yet?

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    348
    it was 29something when I weighed in for the DV race, which included 900g of tires and a Reverb seatpost. 27 and change with a Thomson post and lighter tires setup tubeless.

    I haven't been up to Solstice in months but maybe I'll check it out this week. I don't think it's officially open yet, though. regardless there's good stuff to ride, hit me up if you make it down here.

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    6,255
    I ran mine in 140 (RP23) with a 160 fork for just over half the season, loved it. Then switched to an Elka coil in 160 mode, 170 fork (same fork, just pulled out the travel limiter).

    In short, the Elka really made me realize how the RP23 skipped around in the back. Not badly, but the Elka just keeps the rear planted on any and all terrain, no matter what. I did notice a significant loss in pedaling efficiency going from 140 air to 160 coil though. It still pedals great, but I was really happy with the angles on the 140/160 and the efficiency and the smaller, fun bike feel.

    Basically, I think I'm going back to air 140/160 very soon here, and leaving it at that. And I also think a 140 rear with 150 Revelation with 20 mm axle and an angleset would be SICK.

    I will still keep the coil around for burly rides like Dark Hollow and UPS/LPS/Porcupine though.
    I'm so hardcore, I'm gnarcore.

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Littleton
    Posts
    2,453
    Good looking rig PFH!

    Next spring I'll get on the Mojo (or SB-66 carbon!) bandwagon.

  16. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,076
    Quote Originally Posted by Particle View Post
    Basically, I think I'm going back to air 140/160 very soon here, and leaving it at that. And I also think a 140 rear with 150 Revelation with 20 mm axle and an angleset would be SICK.
    Maybe before you switch it back we can get a ride in and compare them back to back. (I'll add the tougher bits back on and some flat pedals ) I'd really like to find a volume reducer kit for my rp23 cause I think that would help me dial in the rear suspension a ton. I don't think this bike needs a high volume air can.

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    retired
    Posts
    12,456
    mojo hd 140 + monarch plus + revelation 150 = hotness
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  18. #93
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,076
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    mojo hd 140 + vivid air + revelation 150 = hotness
    Almost went this route, but decided that it would cost me too much to buy another Revelation this year(just got the wife an XX-WC) and I would still want more then 140mm travel in places like Moab. I can't see switching both the front and rear suspension every time I go to the desert. Also, can't get a Rev WC with a 20mm axle and that would be the ultimate hotness.

  19. #94
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,925
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    mojo hd 140 + monarch plus + revelation 150 = hotness
    You jumping off the Reign X bandwagon? Ya, I realize they're two fairly different bikes, but 1 bike quivers nonetheless

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    G-Spot
    Posts
    1,412
    Quote Originally Posted by marshalolson View Post
    mojo hd 140 + monarch plus + revelation 150 = hotness
    My dream setup...

  21. #96
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    retired
    Posts
    12,456
    Quote Originally Posted by Lev View Post
    You jumping off the Reign X bandwagon? Ya, I realize they're two fairly different bikes, but 1 bike quivers nonetheless
    for a long travel trail bike, IMO:

    reign x > mojo hd

    for a short travel xc/trail bike, mojo hd 140 = hotness
    go for rob

    www.dpsskis.com

  22. #97
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    10,328
    Quote Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler View Post
    I'd really like to find a volume reducer kit for my rp23 cause I think that would help me dial in the rear suspension a ton. I don't think this bike needs a high volume air can.
    Use some sheet p-tex or the outer cover from a CD-R/DVD-R case or some big, fat rubber bands. I know you're too particular to do that long term, but it's a good way to play with the volume and see if you like the change.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  23. #98
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,076
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Use some sheet p-tex or the outer cover from a CD-R/DVD-R case or some big, fat rubber bands. I know you're too particular to do that long term, but it's a good way to play with the volume and see if you like the change.
    Thanks D...I almost did that but then I found the kit isn't that expensive if you just call Fox direct. They have great customer service. You know me pretty well cause the idea of doing a hack mod on a brand new shock wasn't something I was stoked on. The Kashima coating just looks too pretty

    BTW - trying to make the trip south work out...would be good to get the band back together for a weekend...We'll see

  24. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1,925
    Hey, how tall are you carbon dorks riding the HDs and what size frames did you go with? What size would a 5'10" dude be riding? Just curious...

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    1,897
    6'2" riding an XL. I think at 5'10" you'll be good on the L. Ibis has a fairly short top tube and I actually wish it came with a shorter seat tube. If I were to get a 5" drop post, it would be sitting right on the collar. Otherwise stellar bike and an even more stellar customer service. I'm interested to try the SB-66 out due to its longer TT on the Large, but it would be VERY difficult to leave Ibis' CS.

    Since I'm writing, anybody have a good suggestion for a November bike trip? Have never ridden in the States and thinking of taking a week during the shoulder season.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •