Binding mounting myths:

[XXX-er]

Alpine screws or inserts? The glue/epoxy is mainly for sealing when installing alpine screws, not to rely on for holding strength. Wood glue or silicone sealant are other options. Epoxy = overkill/no-no for some, desirable for others and no consensus as far as I can tell.

Gorilla Glue expands and not desirable, IMO. The Orange High Peel Strength Hardman works well for sealant, inserts and general repairs so does the blue general purpose. Not sure about the Loctite Marine.

"" 5) It is imperative to seal the screw in the hole and bond it to the topskin and core to make a single bonded system. Fill the holes with a two-part liquid (not paste) epoxy or one-part polyurethane before installing the screws. Failure to do so may void the warranty. Devcon, 3M, Hardman, Gorilla Glue, and Hysol make excellent two-part epoxies for the task. Gorilla Glue, Titebond Polyurethane, and Elmer’s Polyurethane are excellent one component adhesives. DO NOT USE CONVENTIONAL WOOD GLUE. Using conventional wood glue may void the warranty. ""


a copy & paste from the DPS site

[otto parts]

from BindingFreedom's website:
"For those that must have the best, this is the stuff."

Have used this stuff on Jondrum's recommendation for 2 years-on DPS's, Bros, and many more (major whore, I am). If you want the care free satisfaction of using the very best, get it. Great for filling holes with a bit of steel wool and dowel too as it stays flexible in all temps.

[auvgeek]

^^ Thanks otto! I was gonna do some research on that and ask if I couldn't find the answer in other threads. I assumed that was the best stuff to use, but there's no way I'm taking any chances on new carbon skis.

[Jonathan S.]

said it numerous times.

amazing goop or 3m marine epoxy (1 part, urethane based) is the best ski mounting glue. period. it works on all skis regardless of construction in a superior manner, regardless of binding. it bonds as strong or stronger than epoxy, but screws are easily removed.

So, okay, but do you mind saying it more one time?

More specifically, are these the exact products you recommend? --

Marine Goop Adhesive/Sealant - 3.7oz

3M Fast Cure 5200 Sealant - White, 3oz

[Jonathan S.]

Or is the Fast Cure version of the 3M better:
3M™ Marine Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200, 3-oz. tube
(The regular take an entire week to fully cure!)

[Jonathan S.]

According to 3M:
3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200
A one-part, general all-purpose polyurethane that chemically reacts with moisture to deliver flexible bonds with good adhesion to
wood, fiberglass, gelcoat, plastics and metals. Forms watertight, weather-resistant seals on joints and boat hardware above or below the waterline. This product is approximately half the strength of 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200, which allows for disassembly of parts.

So this?

[Bird Blaster]

Is the gorilla glue wood better than the other all purpose GG.

Seems like whatever I mount with... Someone disagrees.

Bah

[Jonathan S.]

said it numerous times.

amazing goop or 3m marine epoxy (1 part, urethane based) is the best ski mounting glue. period. it works on all skis regardless of construction in a superior manner, regardless of binding. it bonds as strong or stronger than epoxy, but screws are easily removed.

Does anyone else find that the fumes from Amazing Goop are especially noxious?
After each mount, the fumes were so bad, I took the excess goop and any gooped-up applicators from my basement shop garbage can into the big household garbage can in the garage. Every couple days when I took another garbage bag out to the garage and opened up the garbage can, whoah!

Also, I checked out the 3M marine epoxy in the store, and the package said that once open, it will soon harden up. That means a new tube for every single mount? (Unless of course you're mounting multiple pairs of ski over the course of a few days -- which would be the case for a shop, but rather pricey for intermittent home mounting.)

[kalisto]

Would you guys say a tap is necessary for a wood core ski with a metal laminate?

Bindings = dynafits
skis = k2 hardsides.

[Bird Blaster]

It was my understanding if the ski has metal in it you should tap.

[XXX-er]

Also, I checked out the 3M marine epoxy in the store, and the package said that once open, it will soon harden up. That means a new tube for every single mount? (Unless of course you're mounting multiple pairs of ski over the course of a few days -- which would be the case for a shop, but rather pricey for intermittent home mounting.)

I would try storing it in the freezer BUT in a glass jar with a good seal OR all your food will taste like tolulene , this is what I do with my aqua seal, seam grip, liquid vynal

[skimaxpower]

Would you guys say a tap is necessary for a wood core ski with a metal laminate?
Bindings = dynafits
skis = k2 hardsides.

Yes. You should tap. Be sure to tighten the screws by hand.

BTW, I have this exact setup. You'll love it!

[dcpnz]

Fellas,
Sorry to dredge up and old and contentious thread yet again.

I've always used 2 part marine epoxy for my mounts (West Systems G Flex is my adhesive of choice) but they've always been Dynafit where I like the idea of any extra strength and don't care about removal issues down the road.

Latest mount is alpine (salomons on a wood core) so I thought I'd try something else. In the interest of getting it done now rather than wait till next day for open hardware store for some "Marine Goop" I tried "All Purpose Amazing Goop" which I believe is exactly same stuff but without UV inhibitor.

Now while I feel its probably fine for primary job of sealing holes from moisture from a practical perspective it sure is a pain in the a$$ to use. Consistency is thicker than my 2 part epoxy and so application to holes is difficult.
How are you guys doing it?? Apply to hole with cotton swab/toothpick/paperclip/other or coat the screw or both??

[kukakkid]

First , I have never been a fan of plastic inserts or Brass , but before reading this forum I did not realize they expand when screwed.
I like tognar helicoils the ones you have to redrill the hole and tap then thread in the helicoil, to me this is a helicoil, the others are inserts.Today I had a handicapped skier on a Line P 98 with a S12/20 that he was using as a monoski for a chair, he had pulled the heel , I do beleive the shop that mounted it did not know to tap the metal topsheet of this ski after drilling 4.1 . I mounted the binding on the other ski using 5 helicoils in the heel and lots of epoxy as it has always been my belief that this type of helicoil is much stronger than just a plain mount. I think ther eis a lot of misinformation in this thread and a distinction between cheap plastic inserts and helicoils need to be made. In thirty years as a ski tech I have never had a helicoil pull out. But have fixed pulled out bindings with helicoils on occasion.

[Toby]

OK, advice on this glue?

Is the warning ("not for polyethylene, polypropylene") likely because it won't bond to those materials or because it'll eat them, like solvent-based glues do to polystyrene?

I'm happy with it not bonding to plastic - then the binding won't be glued to the ski. I'm less happy with the topsheet/screw/core not forming a homogeneous bond but I can live with that. Primarily interested in sealing, and this glue seems OK for those purposes (unless gaps occur between the screw/topsheet due to not bonding PE/PP).

Also, is the -15°C (continuous) rating normal, or should I look for an alternative that's more suited to snow conditions (if they exist)?

Trying to choose a glue that's easily obtainable for me and better than generic epoxy ...

[jondrums]

^^^ I think you might be overthinking things. generic epoxy is fine as long as it is slow-cure (24hours or so). Lots of people are using devcon from the local hardware store. I recall so much misdirection in this thread that I groaned when I saw it was bumped.