Burred Edges

[so_ill]

So after taking my new Lord's out a total of 2 times, I've managed to give one ski about 5" worth of burrs on a side edge. I'd like to take care of it myself if possible, but don't wanna risk it if there's a good chance I'll mess up my skis. Do you guys recommend deburring myself, taking back to the shop to have them work on it, or just riding em out until I get back from Colorado and have em summerized?

[Eluder]

Do you have the proper tools?

[so_ill]

Nope. I'd have to buy them.

[gregL]

Try a diamond stone. For general de-burring probably the medium (blue) will be fine; plus you can carry it in your pack or pocket.

http://www.tognar.com/deburr_polishi...s.html#diamond

[Eluder]

It really depends on how bad you talking here. If its minor you could just clean it up with a diamond stone. Go talk to the guys at your shop or do some digging around on Slidewright.com. You have to decide if you want to start doing your own tuning or if you want to be able to just to a quick bandaid to get you to the next tune. There is always the fuck it and ski option as well.

Edit: What Greg said for the quick fix.

[Captain Anal]

I'll deburr them for you. $100.

[El Chupacabra]

Try a diamond stone. For general de-burring probably the medium (blue) will be fine; plus you can carry it in your pack or pocket.

http://www.tognar.com/deburr_polishi...s.html#diamond

Do you really use a diamond stone to deburr? (say, an edge that scraped along a rock, and is rough and jagged)

I use a much cheaper arkansas stone for that. Seems like that would destroy a diamond stone to use it on a jagged edge... If I want to tune the edges, I'll use a set of diamond stones in an edge guide (and sometimes file), but mostly I just deburr and wax the bases.

[Chowda]

If you just need to take off burrs so they aren't catchy, the red or blue diamond stone will work well. Don't over do it, and keep the pressure light.

If you want a new polished edge, you will want a bevel guide too, and at least both red and blue stones. Moonstones would even be better in this case.

Check out http://WWW.slidewright.com maggot owned co, with great service.

[Eluder]

Do you really use a diamond stone to deburr? (say, an edge that scraped along a rock, and is rough and jagged)

I use a much cheaper arkansas stone for that. Seems like that would destroy a diamond stone to use it on a jagged edge... If I want to tune the edges, I'll use a set of diamond stones in an edge guide (and sometimes file), but mostly I just deburr and wax the bases.

We're not talking about your boy friends diamond pendant here. The diamond stone is pretty efficient at this, when you wear it out get a new one.

[gregL]

A diamond stone seems to take off "work hardened" burrs easier than anything, with very light pressure. One $10 stone should last you for years, especially if you use traditional files/guides for major tuning. The DMT diamond stones are about half the price now as when they first came out.

[El Chupacabra]

A diamond stone seems to take off "work hardened" burrs easier than anything, with very light pressure. One $10 stone should last you for years, especially if you use traditional files/guides for major tuning. The DMT diamond stones are about half the price now as when they first came out.

I noticed that the price has come down a lot -- I'll try it out. My experience with the DMT stones is that they don't last near as long as the moonflex ones, but they are a lot cheaper.

[so_ill]

Thanks for the help fellas.

[AlpiNord]

So after taking my new Lord's out a total of 2 times, I've managed to give one ski about 5" worth of burrs on a side edge. I'd like to take care of it myself if possible, but don't wanna risk it if there's a good chance I'll mess up my skis. Do you guys recommend deburring myself, taking back to the shop to have them work on it, or just riding em out until I get back from Colorado and have em summerized?

My kid shows us adults how easy it is:




There are many options of better value than DMT's over time. Check out the SkiVisions Stones or diamond files for a couple options.

[gwat]

I'm with El. Why waste diamond stones on deburring? They are a polishing tool, and are great at polishing a newly filed edge. Arkansas or ceramic stones are what you want for deburring, cost a fraction of a diamond stone and will last many times longer.

[gregL]

There are many options of better value than DMT's over time.

Terry, what's your pick in diamond stones/files for best bang-for-the-buck? I've used DMT and Moonflex out of habit, Moonflex seems to last longer (diamonds don't get knocked out as easily and more per square in.) but costs 50% more. How about the SVST ones?

[Jethro]

Mill Bastard file. $10

[skibum_jr]

im going to go with rludes25 and say fuck it and ski...unless they are really bad.

[AlpiNord]

Terry, what's your pick in diamond stones/files for best bang-for-the-buck? I've used DMT and Moonflex out of habit, Moonflex seems to last longer (diamonds don't get knocked out as easily and more per square in.) but costs 50% more. How about the SVST ones?

Hi Greg,
The Moonflexes do have a very good usable life (possibly twice or more of DMTs), especially if you keep them clean and lube and do use a 'utility/beater' stone like an aluminum oxide for knocking down burrs and case hardened sections. I like the SVSTs because they have a nicer aluminum backing (lasts a lifetime) that is rigid and the 3M diamond strips are replaceable. The Moonflexes seem to last a little longer, but after the second round, which could be a few seasons, the SVSTs replacement are cheaper. Sorma Diafaces also make a moon faced rigid backed diamonds. Generally, the rigid backs give me a better 'feel' while tuning whereas others prefer the flex/bending of the Moonflexes for better contact on tighter radius skis.

Sometimes you need to pull out a bastard or 2nd cut when edges get chewed up severely or when c tweaking edge geometry more quickly.

[sb]

Diamond stones will remove burrs as others have stated but their real use is for removing "case hardening" or "work hardening" which occurs when you strike an object with your edge at speed. This CH needs to be removed before the edge can be efficiently sharpened and honed. Diamond stones need a light hand or you can destroy them.

After a couple passes with the DS I run the course file down the entire length then a fine file followed by the Arkansas stone/ruby then the final polish with a gummi block.

I highly recommend you read up on ski tuning and obtain a few basic tools, a finely tuned ski is both satisfying and rewarding to ride. The difference will astound you.