Sometimes you get really lucky.
I woke up early this morning to work. I figured I could catch a late morning session on the rising tide. I paddled out at 945 to peaky surf at 56th street. There were a bunch of different peaks working between 56th and 61st, so it was not just the peak off the jetty. It was head high and fun on the sets, with plenty of chest and shoulder high waves between sets. There was a slight bump on it, but the wind pretty much held off. I surfed for 2.5 hours, the crowd was pretty light, at most 8 people between 56 and 61 which is nothing for Newport, and you could pretty much find a peak to yourself. Crowds this light are very rare on a head high day in Newport, even at this time. I have no idea how many waves I caught, with the light crowd people were actually giving each other waves, hooting everyone in. It is a shame it can't always be like that. It was the best session I have had in months, maybe since last fall considering how bad winter was. It was really lined up on the right ones, and there were even a few barrels to be had for those savvy enough to sniff them out. I really wish surfing could always be like this. Fun waves, great vibes in the lineup and smiles all around. I've got code to write and data to analyze, so it could be a late night, but today was amazing. I really hope the rest of you guys get some of this.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
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