Anyone else get some today...?

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Waves headed in for sunday and monday over here.

Meanwhile I a still stoked out of my head: we had some sloppy surf come in last monday and I was able to surf my Frankenboard for the first time! As you may recall, I shaped it out of an old wind surf board I had lying around. Peeled off the outside first, repaired all the holes and other stuff left by the peeling proces and mast rail/ foot bands/ etc, cut it in half down the middle, placed a stringer, then shaped a mini Simmons out of that. Due to winter i.e. me not being able to finish the last glassing layer, I decided to do some art work on it: a japanese wave and a giant squid. That turned out great (IMHO) but then I had huge troubles with the last epoxy layer. Anyway, the outcome isn't as sexy as it could have been.

But most importantly, the fat bar of soap (5'7"x 22 2/3" x 2 2/3") surfs really nice (ok, maybe not a very objective opinion). The volume makes it easy to paddle and take off on, with no tail rocker and little nose rocker it is fast down the line and pretty stable overall. I really dig it. I'll try to put some pics up some time.

Cant wait to surf it in better waves!

[Ottime]

Awesome. I really miss shaping boards out of old junk. I know it is not really a full recycle, because you need to throw out all that glass, but it is still fun breathing new life into shit and then riding it. Do you guys get much surf as we move into spring and summer? I'm guessing you actually get more open water, with the ice breaking apart, to generate waves. When are you sacking up and coming to Cali where I hear I claim it is always head high, offshore and all time?

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Haha, no such thing man. Dutch climate is similar to British weather: around/ just above freezing in the winter, with lots of rain and wind. Summer is better with about 20 - 30degr C. Less wind so also less waves. We need depressions going from Scotland to Norway. In their wake Northerly gale force winds shove swell into the Northsea.

Generally speaking our waves are crappy, high frequency storms swells. Denmark has better surf, as does France, southern England and Ireland.

Being a newbie to surfing, I just get in the water as much as possible.

On a positive note: my wife mentioned we might need to go on a quick family vacation in may, to somewhere with surf!!! Woohoo. Cali isn't in the cards though. Maybe some other time.

[whitekingsalmon]

ya no reason to fly 13 hours to the west coast of usa to surf,,,,, head to morocco. nothing like an exotic surf trip. morocco is amazing. try sri lanka too, lots of easy surf breaks there and also an amazing island to see.

[Ottime]

You got a grasp at sarcasm there. But seriously, how is Morocco in May? I was trying to figure out where he might want to go. That seems like it would be easy access. I just assumed their spring sucked like ours usually does.

[subtle plague]

morocco can get swell in may, but swell is hit and miss since it's even further from the storms than france or spain and summertime tends to be really slow over here.

[icelanticskier]

maine had swell this am. got some

rog

[Ottime]

morocco can get swell in may, but swell is hit and miss since it's even further from the storms than france or spain and summertime tends to be really slow over here.

Sounds similiar to here, as winter winds down, so does the likelihood of long period NW. Although, here, the winds are more of an issue, as we tend to get our strongest onshore conditions in spring. Great for building up wind swell, but not great for surface conditions.

I was going to suggest Spain/France to TN, as it is fairly close, but I tend to think of that coast line as being in season Fall and early Winter.

[Hugh Conway]

lets play "pick a place we've never been for some dude we don't know" for the 5,000th time.

[Ottime]

Hey grumps, who is playing what? Is your Kingdom all askew again?

[icelanticskier]

6-7 ft @ 11/12 with a 130 angle and light offshores this afternoon. saw the buoy report on my lunch break at work and didn't bother to clock back in. double sesh day. super sweet the lefts were tremendous

rog

[peterslovo]

Nice, rog!

We were a touch smaller...saw consistent chest-head, with lots in the shoulder range, to a foot overhead up here. Perfect winds. Reminded me why I like to surf.

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[icelanticskier]

Nice, rog!

We were a touch smaller...saw consistent chest-head, with lots in the shoulder range, to a foot overhead up here. Perfect winds. Reminded me why I like to surf.

ya man. was out from a little before 7 this am till 830 and was a lil surprised how small it was. super fun but stomach high sets at best. i almost didn't even bother to check the buoy from work, but soooooooooo glad i did. hardly anyone out this afternoon and twice the size of the morning. empty peaks/bars everywhere. per usual. fucking love it here so much

glad you got some! next several days look fairly active

rog

[Ottime]

You know I miss the Southern Maine Coast from April-June. I always seemed to score quiet, clean surf in the spring. And it would feel almost warm out at times. Of course I'll be back from mid July into August. Not a period of time I miss so much. But I do rather enjoy that summer heat. Looks like we will be back up in Moody this year. Could not convince the family to look more near long sands. Oh well, it always fun to look at moody point in August and try an recall the epic session I had there one December morning over two decades ago.

I think there might be some surf here. At least saw a lot of parked cars today. Dunno. The ocean looked like it had a stiff breeze on its back.

[Hugh Conway]

dear diary, today the waves were declared good by important people on the internet and i had fun.

[strawjack]

ya man. was out from a little before 7 this am till 830 and was a lil surprised how small it was. super fun but stomach high sets at best. i almost didn't even bother to check the buoy from work, but soooooooooo glad i did. hardly anyone out this afternoon and twice the size of the morning. empty peaks/bars everywhere. per usual. fucking love it here so much

glad you got some! next several days look fairly active

rog

Wall was shoulder and thick last night. Nice amount of power and clean. It's a mess today, but still a swell out there.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

lets play "pick a place we've never been for some dude we don't know" for the 5,000th time.

All that said, I wasn't looking for info on a place to go, though all input is appreciated. Even if I don't know you personally.

;-)

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Tomorrow should give clean shoulder - head high North sea swell. Jiiihawww

[peterslovo]

Another very quality day. Good size, good winds. Nice stretch of swell!

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[jtran10]

WNW jumped up overnight. Surfed yesterday in some fun chest high windswell, and haven't really been checking for swells since I figured NW swell season had wound down, but apparently not. Excited to head out after work. Hopefully winds don't pick up too much today.

[Ottime]

Real good sized up here yesterday. A bit sloppy tho. This morning is still showing decent. But lots of more wind swell building on it slopping up the slop

[jtran10]

funny, we were pretty sloppy yesterday with more size than the past several days, and then all of a sudden we're 6@15 from the WNW in the way south part of the county

[whitekingsalmon]

jajajjjaaaaa

[Atrain505]

After 2 months in the mountains 15@15 showed up here at the island and I scrambled out of a remote lodge where I was filming and it was nothing but pure clouds, to be greeted with well, well overhead bombs. Had one of my best waves ever. Super long and powerful with huge long drawn out bottom and top turns at high speed. Laughing at the end of it. So good.

Two more waves during that brief evening session, one which closed out after the bottom turn. What do you do on a double overhead closeout? Tried to jump low and into it and got sucked over the falls. Then took about ten on the head. I was super spent after that.

Made it back out. Caught one more, almost crashed twice, recovered, rode it all the way in and on the heavy beach close out didn't make it out the back quite in time. Sucked over. Slammed into the bottom. Leash hog tied my legs. Called it a night.

The morning session and yesterday were not quite as good and much smaller, but as fun as could be. Missed the ocean!!!

[Ottime]

Two more waves during that brief evening session, one which closed out after the bottom turn. What do you do on a double overhead closeout? Tried to jump low and into it and got sucked over the falls. Then took about ten on the head. I was super spent after that.

!

Nothing says "welcome back" like a good beating.

Depends on the wave. If I want to hold my ground, I go straight to the flats and dive off (assuming it is not shallow) and immediately swim down hard to get under the turbulence. Climb the leash, get on the board and paddle down the line to the channel.

If I don't want to hold my ground because, say, I might take ten on the head, I tend try to get further inside, drive toward the 'beach' at 60 degrees, headed down the line. What I am trying to do it get to a place where the wave has lost a lot of its energy. Then I duck dive the white water, and when the set subsides, make my way back out. You are not trying to get so much down the line, just well inside the impact zone, so you are not taking the wave directly on your head.

Surfed a junky point last night and this morning. Bigger last night. Head high (like it is every day*) the morning. The funk kept the crowds at bay, but it was pretty damn fun and setting up quite nicely. Nice to have a little late season juice in the water.

*At least this is how I think, according to an interweb drone.