fun morning here. almost overlooked it. waist/chest/clean/ 2 others out, very far away. the 5'8 is just brilliant. one left was particularly awesome. snappy and fast. automatic.
the morning should be entertaining once again
rog
fun morning here. almost overlooked it. waist/chest/clean/ 2 others out, very far away. the 5'8 is just brilliant. one left was particularly awesome. snappy and fast. automatic.
the morning should be entertaining once again
rog
surfing in single digits takes a 'special' kind of human.
b
.
^^^^^makes 40 degree water feel piss warm
more pleasant than summer in some ways
rog
Agreed. But I prefer 40 degree air in 50 degree water. Still makes it feel like warm water.
Had some fun yesterday on te arriving swell. A little to a bit OH, 18 second periods and roping waves along the reef. Outside was burl, and the inside was just rippable.
So I took a flight to DC. Should be a good week at home.
you from md? used to head down that way a bunch.
sweet lil glassy waist high peelers this am. York. just me. not quite as good as yesterday due to a lower tide, but quite pleasant. thinking tomorrow could be an ogt morning if there's any swell left in the water. and winds willing. days are getting longer!
rog
Nope. NY born an bread. Sister lives down here now. MD is one of the few east coast states I've never surfed in.
Nice grindy knee to slightly overwaist mid-beach at OB. Offshore, shorts and t-shirts in the neighborhood. I heard a rumor that Mavericks might be run on this upcoming swell.
Merry Christmas to all!
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
That is sad. Feels like it has been a few seasons since the Mavs has been run in legit conditions. Oh well. At least that means I'll get a little surf when I return Friday.
Just got back from Oahu. Plenty of surf...everywhere. I watched Pipeline one morning, perfect, 12-24 feet. First, second and third reef were all on fire.
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^^^^^
that's very different look than the 1-3 ft pipe I saw in November.
To answer the original question, why yes, I did.
Alarm woke us at 5:30 in VA. At Dulles by 6:20. Barely boarded a 7:50 flight. Wrangled 2 year old for 6 hours. Dealt with two missing bags. One a car seat. Unlocked the front door at around 1PM.
Got to beach at 3. 5.8@17, 2-5knot cross on. First wave was a few feet OH. A bit warbled, but when it hit the reef in the right way, it fired off. Yes. Got a bunch. Then grabbed one the peaked perfectly on the outside. First turn right off the top as the section stood to 4' OH and then fired off for 100m, back off then fired at just OH for another 50m. Yes. Grabbed a big one. Got off the top, but never made it around the bottom of the next section. Sick still.
Then had some winter wipeouts.
Dropped, folded near the bottom, skipped, bounce, pulled over the falls, tossed into the air for at least a second, then driven way down, spinning, etc, desperately climbing leash back the surface. Fucking awesome.
Next one, never made it off the top, punched through the bottom, waves passes an I surface behind it, thinking I escaped, then a hole forms and I start going down, down, down. No turbulence, but I'm fucking sinking. Again desperately climbing the leash. Make it to surface, hyper ventilate to get my O2 up and then dive under the next one. Made it under easily. Good times.
Sunset. Well. Good to be home.
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Last edited by Ottime; 12-28-2013 at 07:25 AM.
Surfed Xmas eve in the early afternoon. Sets up to chest/shoulder, very clean, but too soft. I still had fun, but could have used more zip. I have not surfed much recently, and I was truly awful, blowing my first couple of drops and generally feeling like a beginner. After that I got a few rights that lined up, but I still could not do much. I think I counted exactly one decent backhand turn all day. My skills have really eroded, and they were not exactly sharp to begin with.
This swell is hitting a bit in HB, but it is dead flat in Newport. I might go up to HB in the afternoon, but unfortunately it seems too long period and walled. I might go anyway, just to get in the water. Hopefully the wind will hold off, as I want to wait for the tide to turn around.
I hope the rest of you guys have gotten more this winter than I have. Between Mammoth hurting and limited surf I have had some pretty lazy weekends.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Plenty of action up here now, but the lack or snow or waves has kept me super busy. Just go buy a house and start fixing and working on thing. Fucking endless
Been head high up here. Nice and zippy and fun. No climbing leashes...ott bringing it.
So yesterday was kind of like a big ole Congdons blueberry jelly donut. Big, but not ridiculously so. Filled with the juice. But not crisp, except around the very edges. Fun stuff, but not quite as good as Friday night. Maybe a touch bigger.
If yesterday was a jelly donut, today is when your buddy gets a little too high, buys a bakers dozen of those bad boys, gets through about six or seven and then forgets they are in the back seat of the car when he pulls off the road for a short doze and proceeds to roll, kick and crush the fuck out of them. Smaller is size, nothing in the way or normal shape, but plenty of the juicy jam as long as your are willing to poke around a bit and stick your tongue out
Gonna try to hit the morning up with a fuller tide.
Been a whole lot of fun around here. Still OH, but now just barely. Until that 19s swell fills in overnight.
Just got home from a fun evening session at Sunset Cliffs. Nothing big but nice form and a great sunsrt I may have to go for another monday
My Land Cruiser has a broken steering knuckle and axle. I think I will be a regular OB local for a bit. In other words, GET IT!
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
4.6@20 spectral, 8@19 NOAA reading. OB should be pretty flat. So bummed I'm heading to the (not) snow after my session this morning. The rest of this week looks plenty fun. This round should fill out nicely by mid day tomorrow.
How's OB local boy? A certain south facing burger joint was breaking several feet OH and lining up forever. I would not quite say you coul get barreled, but there were cover up ops, and a vertical wall that went right into the inside rocks.
Now I'm headed to the hills. So sad.
You are fuckin lame. Cali has had better surf than you could ride for weeks. When it sucks we can hit baja malibu and still have better waves than you travel for. Bummin about snow? You sure gloat alot but rumor has it your ip# is in the states and you are just a methed up beater. Keep dreaming delusional bitch.
happy new year gang!!!
nice to see folks getting in the water and scoring.
surf has been real on and off here, but quite a few good sessions have been had here/there. missed some good stuff Monday as I wanted to do some touring on Washington after 14" of new fell. woke up and buoys/cams were telling a tale of small/weak. I knew the surf would come up, but didn't wanna blow a day "waiting" for it to happen. I drove north, toured, skied excellent pow, and got a great workout, but of course on the way home I got a text that ogt had head high+ sets breaking perfectly. ah well. the ONLY way I'm gonna get my ski on is if I miss good surf sometimes, cuz whe the skiings good, the surf is good here. just how it works. torture
so I had some hope that there might be leftovers on the morning of the last day of 2013. I watched to buoy hold steady at 3.5 @ 11 seconds with a nice angle for maine. woke up, suited up, and paddled out with the air temp holding steady at 7 degrees f with water temps in low 40's. no one at the beach and PERFECT waist high waves with sea smoke to add an aesthetic flair.
had both boards with me, but went with the leashless 5'8 and holy fucking crap is that board fun in that stuff. super fast, super loose and always ready to eek out every ounce of the lack of power that York beach is famous for. ripping fast rail to rail carving. if it had only been twice the size.....sigh.
still a wicked fun way to close out 2013. just me out there. they way I prefer it
weekend is looking VERY active here.
rog
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Beautiful evening session yesterday. Head high glass. The wife and I. Sunset. Warm as can be for mid winter up here. Cheers to the new year!
Speaking of glass, the other day was so glassy, that after the set passed through, millions of tiny bubbles were just sitting on the water surface. I love that.
Snow is fine, but every lift ride I keep thinking back to the waves. I love that 8-10' face range when things are working. But I also wish I had the gun with me Monday morning. I would have surfed it for the first time in three years. And not have been terribly over gunned. I'd say faces at the reef were running 15' on the good sets. Some a touch bigger.
Wondering now what showed at Mavs.
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