Contest is on, 2-4ft![]()
Contest is on, 2-4ft![]()
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
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SoCal surf report from Surfline...
A storm currently intensifying northeast of Hawaii (with satellite confirmed winds of 45-50kts+) will deliver a solid pulse of WNW (270-295) groundswell mix for the end of the week. That swell will rapidly fill in Thursday and peak overnight into early Friday morning before easing into the weekend. We expect plenty of waves in the shoulder high to a couple feet overhead zone (4-7') for decent exposures, with sets running well overhead to double overhead (8-10') for standout WNW magnets. Select winter focal points of Ventura and San Diego are double overhead+ (10-12'+) as the pulse tops out. Stay tuned, we'll continue to refine the size/timing of this event as we monitor the system.
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Finally!
I might have to make a Trestles run on Friday. I'm sure it will be slammed, but oh well.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
happy black Friday
lovely morning surf. 17 degree air temps. crystal clear water and skies, with offshores at about 6mph.
waist high baby with plus sets
perfect lil waves. some of the prettiest I've seen in some time.
next week looks interesting
rog
17 degrees. I'm skiing and it is not nearly that cold. I think it is 44 here. Surf at home is cranking.
Back home waiting for the mrs to wake and the tide to drop. Gonna go climb down a cliff and slot myself into a ledge.
Black friday swell was awesome. Blew offshore all day in cbad. Had a great session with tons of fun waves. Overhead sets, consistent and uncrowded where I was.
Yesterday did pipes in the am and terramar in the pm. Sunset surf yrsterday eve with waist high lb rollers and the best sunset I've seen in months rocked
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Done slotted.
No slotting up here. Windy mess today. Tomorrow the winds die down but I have to work in the city. Paycheck over surf. Damn.
beautiful morning here. sunny, light offshores and perfect waist/chest a frames coming in with nice zip. surfed a lil over 2 hours. tomorrow morning may be a bit smaller, but still pretty fun
rog
^ that looks amazing, but instead of surfing i was working in 10* temps all day.
But if you are a true New Englander, you would be still trunking it. No need for pants until the mercury hits zero.
Suddenly I'm a weekend warrior, but my sun just got into a co op, so I will have three hours, one day a week, to spend as I like. Hopefully the swell becomes more regular. The school is four minutes from west cliff, so I town is breaking, I'll be a happy clam.
^ Baja would be a treat right now. Looks amazing.
Caught the tail end of the swell in the morning yesterday. Started shoulder high and gradually faded to flat and high tide by mid day. Sunny again. This has been the sunniest summer/fall/winter ever. Could be why Whistler is having a terrible start to the year. Good skiing = good swells up here. There ain't much of either right now.
One o the things I love around here is how powder days usually bring crap conditions. When the PNW is getting pounded, and we warm up, setting up the snow, the surf usually pumps. We've had neither really so far this season. Hence the yard work.
^It will turn on for everyone soon. Only a matter of time!
feeling really good about the black friday swell still. This swell, and the early october santa ana weekend too, my surfing is finally at a point where I can consistently take advantage when conditions turn on. Surf the spot I want, figure out where winds and tides will work out, etc.
Now all I want is more!
holy fucking poop, I almost forgot that I scored some fun ones this am. never even had today on my radar for possible surf. it did snow overnight tho, and if it snows and/or it's a Saturday it's a sure bet that the waves will be clean and serviceable.
woke up at a retardedly late 645 am for some reason. i'm a 5 hour a night sleeper at best most nights. last night I got 7. weird. for some weird reason I pull up the buoy and I see, starting at 4am that the swell had bumped to over 3 ft @ 10/11 seconds from pretty much nothing. low tide at ogt was to be at 8am and the winds were light offshore. perfect. showed up and in the water by 730 and it was on. waist high zippy, bowly shortboard waves. the rights were perfectly walling up and allowed you critical mini carves right up in the mini barreling lip. kinda like you were doing circular down the line rail to rail carves. super fun! had the place to myself. no one even bothered to check it this am while I was there. sleeper swells for the win!
Tuesday's looking promising
rog
dunno where the waves were coming from this am, but glad I went and had a look. 19 degrees at 815 when I paddled out at the ogt in perfect waist plus clean conditions. was all alone for the 1st hour, then surfed with 3 others for the 2nd and 3rd hours. fast and racy lil suckers. SUPER fun on the 5'8. got out at 1115 and it was still a few degrees below freezing.![]()
when the ogt is breaking well it is so fucking good
rog
Them are some cool temps. I toured in the cold instead. Amazing how how one can get walkin up hills in the sun in 15F temps. There is some swell today, but the mrs won't be home till late. Oh well, powder turns were fun.
^^^^^^nice!
my beloved 5mm oneill heat mitts finally pretty much fell of my hands and all you can get now are 7mm if you want mitts. 5mm with trigger finger ain't enough. so now i'll enjoy some nice new 7mm exel "oven mitts". shit i'll be able to stay out for 5 hours now!
^^^^^^^ever figure out yer boot dilemma, ott?
buoy over 8 feet @ 8 seconds right now and winds go offshore overnight.
rog
didn't get out this weekend due to winds/rain, but 36th st in newport looked really fun yesterday early afternoon. About chest/shoulder and only 1 guy out, with slack winds.
Guess being so close to the Santa Ana river mouth has its disadvantages the day after a rain..?
in other news though picked up a 5' 10" x 20 x 2.25 fish shape BYB for $180 on CL saturday.
Great conditon, minimal pressure dents/dings, looks super watertight and not sun bleached. It's a thruster (which I've never surfed less than 7' 8") so I'm interested to see how I like it.
Now between my 6'2 2" x 20 x 2.6 quad and this I think I'll be able to start zeroing in to what volume and fin set up I like in a board, and hopefully by the end of this winter will be able to get something that I really want, finances permitting.
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