surfline is live from testles right now. maybe we'll get a PW spotting![]()
^^^^could have been the swell.
I'm there with you pigs. This is the worse time of year. No real juice yet to thin the herd and spread out the goods.
Swell showed up. D Steet was hectic but kind of fun this morning, sucky beach break closing out. Moved over to Swamis after which was ok.
Crowd was crazy huge at swamis, moved north to boneyards, was a good call.
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
how many folks makes a "crowd" for you left coasters? just curious. out here, 6 makes a crowd and 10 or more is way too crowded.
rog
Swamis had maybe 30? Possibly more at peak time. It's wild looking down at that stretch of beach from Swamis through Cardiff, 100s of dots floating around...what's Saturday going to be like?
That's odd, just surfed between Dstreet and boneyards. Mag invasion.
Tonight was kinda sucky and mostly closing out, got one that sorta lined up. Driving down the line it jacked up in front of me, head up top to float the section, bottom falls out, try to land it in the flats with speed, faceplant de jour. Right side of my face is still numb.
Got off work 2hr drive for a evening/night session, well worth it. Double session tomorrow and sunday
DEDICATION^^^^^^^
conditions have improved. surfed 615-845 this am. chest high with shoulder/head high sets and as clean as clean gets. doesn't get much easier. pretty much ride em whichever way you choose. super round full rail to rail carve surfing. nice and open.
but holy fucking crowded. probably 80ish folks out between nubble and libbys. that's a mile+ of beach, but ridiculous. working 10-6 today, but may hafta duck out at 4 to get another coupla hours in with my honey.
waves and offshores continue for days......
rog
^ couldn't believe how many people were out at 630 this morning. must have been close to 100 spread across jenness. i hadn't surfed since last november, so i can't really complain though. i sure did miss that feeling
i don't doubt it. a bud from nh surfed total closeouts at the wall to avoid the entire rye clusterfuck. york was damn good no closeouts unless you took off the wrong way. the quebexicans love doing that.........a few or more at a time. "TABARNAC! TWO SURFER SIDE BY EACH!!!!!"
nothing compares. skiing the best snow on the best slopes on earth pales in comparison to an excellent wave. last nov. holy smokes. maybe that's why it was so crowded. i despise hurricane season for the hype it brings. i pine for mid winter with temps in the single digits, 40 degree water, overhead noreaster swell with a nw wind and just me out. no one for milesi hadn't surfed since last november, so i can't really complain though. i sure did miss that feeling
rog
Last edited by icelanticskier; 09-14-2013 at 11:04 AM.
not only was it last november, but it was in mal pais. just before their busy tourist season hits
a friend of mine is getting married in kennebunk next weekend...hopefully this swell pattern sticks around so i can sample some of those empty maine lineups!
ooh nice! can't wait to head down there in January hopefully.
there will be waves and hopefully empty-er lineups.a friend of mine is getting married in kennebunk next weekend...hopefully this swell pattern sticks around so i can sample some of those empty maine lineups!
just got home. 3 hours of daylight left. double sesh day, woot!
rog
80ish at york sounds insanely crowded. To answer an earlier question, any more than three feels a bit tight and more than eight is crowded. But actually it depends on the wave and crowd. I surfed a point with two likely take off spots mid day yesterday and early this morning. Probably 12-18 out while I was out, but not terribly crowded. OTOH, Thursday night at a different point that actually is much more spread out felt ridiculously crowded with the 15-20+ people out, due mainly to douche baggery in the crowd and people paddling all over the place. I think what gets me the most is folks you will back paddle to take off a few feet deeper than you - even if it means they fuck up the wave. Sure, you can just drop in on them, but honestly, I don't want to be bothered. At the more competitive point (or better breaks in general) there is just a better controlled crowd following some basic rules.
A little more tomorrow and maybe another bump back up late next week. There is actually a small storm that could set up pretty nicely at just the right distance from us to send a nice consistent swell for a change.
yup, crowded. this afternoon was much less crowded and the waves were holding in the chest/shoulder+ range. heard jenness in nh had multiple hundredsat some point. January pleeze!
glad yer getting some
rog
Kinda fun today, kinda rusty after this past flat spell. Crowds weren't too bad, caught an inside shack....no one else was in there but me. Felt lonely in there, so I found the hidden doggy door exit, bring on winter.
morning session was awesome. it's been a long time sense putting my wetsuit on in the dark. tomorrow i'm forcing the gf to get up for a early morning session. thursday and friday are a very very long way off at this point but it looks like it has a chance to be big up here 12.5 @ 15sec. might need to call in sick
Surf good yesterday, me get shacked from outside to inside
Anyone other than me in the line-up & it’s fucking crowded....
This dawn patrol bullshit is terrible by the way!
Headed to State Park for another barrel fest if anyone wants to meet up, be in the water around 7:15. Lookout for a short, caveman like human being...
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
^^^^^^
beautiful morning. 48 degrees, sunny, light offshores, and much lighter crowd than yesterday. only 40out. surfed south of the restaurant with just 4 others. smaller today. knee/thigh occ waist high. didn't bring the longboard as I told myself if I needed it, i'd just go back to bed. took the 5'10 out and made it happen. wasn't great, a bit spoiled from yesterday, but got some fun turns in.
should be entertaining all week with upticks here/there.
mmmmmm, coffeeeeeeeeee
rog
Crescent City had some insanely good waves Friday evening sesh, had it solo for a bit..HH+ sections lining up with glassy perfect peaks. Swell faded and wind came up Saturday. It was too good to last in DelNorte...
Was at Jenness last week, I won't complain about the knee high peelers, it was shoulder high for my little girl and she loved it. The crowds weren't bad, and the wx was great, but you get dropped in on every wave...
Start driving south in 3 weeks...SD/North Co. is the first stop before hitting the Baja for 2 months...
took my mom out yesterday and laughed at her fear of every single bump in the water she thought would be breaking on her (she was an ever ever). We basically just got outside and she just sat there hanging out while I tried to get a corner, but I took her out away from the crowd and it was just close outs after close out. Oh well. When she went in I paddled closer to the actual peak and got a couple ok rides, but not great.
With fall and winter on the way I didn't feel like I was "wasting" a swell doing this either. Consistent waves and pow please!
the weather has been stupid perfect since july cept for some bouts of rain every once in a while. that jenness scene is ridiculous. haven't surfed nh since December. need some wax and wanna visit the boyz at the shop so tomorrow may be the day. would love to score the rocks after everyone goes to work. should be big nuff to be fun, but small nuff to keep folks just doing drive by's. i'll just have to make sure I don't catch any waves when I see boards on cars driving by
enjoy Baja!
rog
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