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Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

  1. #1976
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    ^^^^we think about it. When we were there we priced out housing in Portland. Looked like we good easily move into a real nice house in a good neighborhood. Then we looked at salaries. We would not be able to pay the mortgage. I mean if we really wanted to, we could make the move. We both really like Portland and Maine in general. But we have gotten used to a good life here. And I've been spoiled with long period swell. For years I did not even bother to look at it once the period dropped below 13 seconds. Spoiled. But Maine has some good options with surf and snow right near each other. And I love me a Congdons donut. Maybe a good reason to just visit once a year.
    right on

    buying a nice moderate home a mile from York beach was cheaper than us paying rent for something not nearly as nice. and at 3.25% fixed for 30, money is way cheap. having snow/surf so close is amazing. what the surf lacks in size/power, we make up for in frequency, cleanliness, and no crowds. if life is good where you are, no reason to change. yearly visits do not suck. god am I a sucker for a good donut.

    rog

  2. #1977
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piggity View Post
    We surf together? 5pm-dark, spring suit sitting on the outside
    No, I was there like 2-330 or so

  3. #1978
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    another day, another nugget(s)

    ogt. waist high sets, some a bit bigger, clean, and just 3 of us out, one too many. the SUPPER, of course, was the one too many. this SUPPER and i were the 1st to paddleout. he came out the rivermouth and i went out the standard route. we meet out beyond the bar, exchange pleasantries and remark how lovely the morning and swell is. the tide is still a bit fat, so we knew we had about 30 minutes till things really started to work well. i caught a couple, he caught a couple, nuthin special. then, BANG, it turned on. now i'm on my 5'10 shorty, and who knows how long this guys SUP is, doesn't matter. what matters is is how fucking absolutely clueless this guy is as far as ettiquette goes. it's like he's the only one there and has no clue that anyone is around him. he not even trying to be a douche, he is just completely out of touch. shouldn't be out there. so as things get better he starts taking waves that i'm paddling for as i'm closer to the peak. this longboarder paddles out while shit starts going down, btw.
    the clueless douch does it once, twice, and on the 3rd strike i fucking lose my shit like i haven't in like 3 years. i take off closest to the peak and he paddles into the wave about 30 feet to my right on a perfect stomach high wave. i started to yell as i was paddling for the wave and continued to yell all the way down the line. man did he get quite the earful from me. i think i said fuck like 100 times. then i explain what he was doing wrong and he has absolutely zero clue of how shit works in the lineup. i'm livid. the longboarder was in disbelief at how clueless the guy was as well. well, the guy stayed WAY away from me but he knows he is now "marked" and better get a clue, quick. then another 3 completely clueless SUPPERS (his friends i assume). i got out after watching all 4 of them taking off on the same waves and running into each other and all sorts of other stupid clueless bullshit.

    other than that, some super fun lil waves were rolling through. may be some more fun ones in the am.

    rog

  4. #1979
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    1. He can't see you because you are so low to the ground. Not his fault you prefer to lay on your stomach like a lobster. You must look like a speed bump all the way down there.

    2. How is four of them sharing a wave and having a jolly time of playing joust with each other clueless? Looks like they are maximizing fun-ness quotient. Did you look closely? Where they sipping martinis during said shenanigans?

    I have not surfed for several days now. And it is not because I'm traveling. At least I am getting some good work done around the house.

  5. #1980
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    the problem is, folks start SUPPING without ever having surfed or have a clue about surfing. they learn to balance, paddle, flatwater, then say, "hey, let's go surfing!" no clue.

    and most of em get into this "take, take, take" mode. if i take a wave, i paddle back out and make sure everyone that's sitting there get's a chance to go for one before i go again. sometimes even if i'm in the better position. not most SUPS.

    ^^^^nothing wrong with taking some time off from surf. re-charge, re-build, heal. i'm burning the candle at all ends with surf/work/house, and bike racing. tired but feeling strong. crisp.

    rog

  6. #1981
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    Uh oh, did I start something.....

  7. #1982
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    I have my own internet rant coming, forewarned is forearmed. It is long.
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  8. #1983
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    Fuck Pigs. Starting Internet complaining and thread derailing all over the place. You not happy, bro?

    An I believe the correct spelling is "SUPer". At least that I what iPhone thinks (so I don't have to).

    Might get in the water by this weekend if any nw builds in. OTOH, super kine weather here in SC today. Saw the sunrise for the first time since I returned on the first of the month. Hopin it is bye bye grey.

  9. #1984
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    the weather here continues to blow the mind. middlish 70's during the day, 50's at night, not humid. bliss for like 3 weeks now or so it seems. should be bliss right thru the weekend.

    SheRa, can't wait!

    rog

  10. #1985
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    Quote Originally Posted by icelanticskier View Post
    SheRa, can't wait!

    rog
    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...t=#post4038948
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  11. #1986
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    when will there ever be waves again!?

  12. #1987
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    ^^never!

    Billabong Pro Tahiti
    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...50768961,d.b2I

    It almost looks user friendly...
    "In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."

  13. #1988
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    YAY!!!

    rog

  14. #1989
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtran10 View Post
    when will there ever be waves again!?
    lil waves here. got some tropical activity out in the water as well. maybe next week!

    meanwhile, holy fucking moly, the babe that just walked.........ah nevermind

  15. #1990
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    and of course just as i'm trying NOT to stare i trip right over a bike i just built and was caught in the act

    at least she smiled

    rog

  16. #1991
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    Haha rog, it sounds like you were playing it up for the attention.

    I got some yesterday! Just sayin.
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  17. #1992
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    Quote Originally Posted by SheRa View Post
    Haha rog, it sounds like you were playing it up for the attention.
    who me? never

    I got some yesterday! Just sayin.
    whatchooget?

    rog

  18. #1993
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    Quote Originally Posted by icelanticskier View Post
    whatchooget?

    rog
    just some waves. small kine
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  19. #1994
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    Super fun session. Just me and some grom in a shorty who pick up surfing while living in Denmark this summer. On the single fin log. Weak, but building wind swell. A few short board waves rolled through. Best part is we were surfing a classic big winter wave break. A spot that gets good when you bust out the 8'4". So much fun to surf it on my longboard.

    The flat spell is done. Looks like we have some wind swell and glassy conditions the next few days. And I dare say the NPAC looks like it is wakening up.

  20. #1995
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    Went back again tonight and found more of the same, if not a bit more power and size. And no one out. Considering how flat and crappy windy it has been for a week now, I'm kind of surprised how empty it is up the coast. Super glassy out. Oil glass. And the wind swell is now up to about 4@9-10s. While nothing special, there were chest high waves to be had, and I dare say they had enough form to short board on. But god was it fun to just take out the long board and actually surf it. Never once thought about not losing it. Never did, but it allowed for me to take off on some juicy bowls. Can't do that with this 30# leash-less beast when there are people inside. And there are always people inside in town.

    And it has been kind of fun to poke around a reef I don't usually consider in the winter until the swell hits at least 8@17. Until there is real size, the wave is such a bowl to back off, to wait in the flats and hope the inside section sets up, followed by a long paddle back, that it is not worth it while nearby slabs are putting up shacks. But I had fun on it with the long board for sure. Plenty of rides right up to the beach. And a challenge making the drop to boot.

    More tomorrow. Might grab the 6'0"

  21. #1996
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    nothing here for almost a week now. looks like another week of nothing. or pretty close. feels like last august. Identical. ^^^^^^^^^^^^sounds like a nice score ott!

    rog

  22. #1997
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    And a challenge making the drop to boot.
    Challenge how? What did you do differently? What were you thinking about?
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  23. #1998
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    Let's see.

    This board is heavy. So it gains momentum. It has inertia. It has no leash. Once it starts going, it goes. So you don't ever want to lose it when there is a crowd. A thigh high wave can take the board a 100 yards. A head high wave can toss it into the air. A juicy bowl just toys with it.

    So that is what I think about in a crowd. Don't lose it.

    Without a crowd I just think - there is no crowd, just surf.

    That means not worrying about making a conservative drop. Instead, I paddled deep on the backside of the bowl, and driving off the bottom and into the meat of the wave. With my short board, which is light, and nibble, this is easy. And I you fuck it up, no big deal.

    Longer boards make a more committed turn. Kind of like long, stiff, grippy skis. Harder to push into a carve, but once going they are locked in.

    With my LB there is very little rocker, which makes for an even plainly-er feel. But a huge, deep concave in the tail makes for an easy pivot when weight is over the fin. It can almost feel too lose. So. The board is stiff, commuted and super fast when riding it with your weight any where but the very back if tr tail. At 4/5 forward, the thing is hyper space in trim. But when you hop on the tail, the thing slows down and spins on the dime.

    My conservative drop in in solid waves (anything chest high or more for this board) has me hoping to a tight squat on the tail, with one hand in the rail, as I line it into perfect trim. Them standing up and walking forward to make the section.

    Last night, I stood up, pointed down the wave with my rear foot on the tail and my forward foot near center. I would alter my weight to avoid pearling and swing the board through avatars bottom turn, go up the face and top turn the board into trim. This would set me way deep in the bowl, and as I walked the nose, the lip would be kissing my thighs.

    It was not a challenge to catch waves, but a challenge to ride them gracefully. I tried to do all this and make it look super easy. Like when I watch a ski flick and walk away thinking I might find the park fun.

    I try not to think about my surfing while surfing. I just critique and coach myself as I paddle back out. I think about what I want to be doing while paddling and try to let the muscles just do it while actually surfing.

    Make sense?

    Oh. One more thing about challenge. In the kid if waves I was in last night, this board can seriously hurt you. So you want to make the waves. And if you don't, you want to get away from the board. So being smooth is important. If you wobble in the wrong spot, you have to just jump off to avoid possible disaster.

    Edit. And challenge. This particular wave has a very fast, odd shaped, warped bowl. Kind of hard to even fit the LB in there. And if you don't get far enough down it, the upper part all turns into the lip.
    Last edited by Ottime; 08-20-2013 at 01:59 PM.

  24. #1999
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Make sense?
    A little bit of sense, yeah. Good of you to write all that out, thanks. I need to read it 50 more times.

    Need to go surfing too. I've holed myself up here for the last couple of days, getting some software written. Maybe get out tomorrow. Oh, I've been practicing a different popup on the carpet. Pop to a solid crouch, instead of this slow dragging, partways standing up thing I do. More commitment.
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  25. #2000
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    Quote Originally Posted by SheRa View Post
    Oh, I've been practicing a different popup on the carpet. Pop to a solid crouch, instead of this slow dragging, partways standing up thing I do. More commitment.
    atta girl! Just do it. Hop to your feet, ready to surf.

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