Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

^^^how is Mammy skiing? Mostly firm from the rain up our way. Still fun, especially once the crust got beat down. Have a few windows to surf the next two days. Nothing special expected, but surf none the less.

Sun/Mon were really good, then Fri/Sat had some rain crust but still fun on trail and way up high. Bottom half the mountain was a thick crust that didn't break when I went off trail, I expected the warm temps and sun would melt the crust some but it didn't really loosen it up too much. Dave's run was pretty sweet though as it had some fluff on top of the scratchy sections. Overall it was pretty fun for early season conditions.

[icelanticskier]

the 15 day swell has ended. finally. i'm pooped. what a fucking month with lot's of head+ days. getting back on the mountain bike today was a nice mixer upper.

looks like walden pond for some time......

rog

[Piggity]

^"Inconceivable"

[jtran10]

surf looked super fun this morning on the way in to work. Got out yesterday afternoon for a bit after getting back from SF. Fun, consistent, but smaller, around waist high. Consistency made up for the size though

[Ottime]

Finally. I have had a new board for over three weeks now, and finally got my second session. Chest to head high. My buddy claims a bit bigger, but you know those guys. Clean, mostly. A little low tide, but all in all, some fun waves. About half way through the session I figured out the sweet spot and ended up getting six or so really nice waves on it. The ting catches waves so easily, that is for sure. And when I find the right spot, it works well. Can't wait to get another day.

Been trying the Finatic subscription. On my first set. EA Vectors. They worked well today. I tried my buddies fiberglass AM2s, which are bigger in area, but seemed to pop loose way to easily. Of course, that could have been the surf. Anyway, they took about a week to arrive, so that was a minus. Will report back on this as I see how it works out.

[Piggity]

The finatic basic sounds reasonable but the platinum is a bit pricey. I assume you get to keep the current fins until your next pair arrive so there's not a gap while exchanging them in the mail?

The scripture has self destructed but I am still a believer in the Gaper surf animal, his spirit lives within us all.

[icelanticskier]

Finally. I have had a new board for over three weeks now.

dims? much different than other boards you've ridden? 12"-ish nose?

maine news. a few days flat mon-wed, with thurs/sat/sun looking fun with good winds. liking the kech's 6oz over 4oz deck as opposed to standard 4+4. holding up very well and laughs at windy chop-smooth.

rog

[Ottime]

Way different than my other boards. About ten years ago, I worked with a shaper to create a variation on a theme with a 6'3", 6'5" and a 6'7". Narrow board from nose to tail. The big board has a super narrow pulled in square tail. The tail itself is 4.5" wide. Great boards for thick, steep, fast waves.

The 6'5" was the widest at 18 7/8. None o them were too good for smaller, weaker surf. So I worked with my neighbor to create a boar for thigh high to a foot OH. We came up with a 6', 19" wide. I'll get other dimensions later, but there is way more tail, a little more thickness in the body, and the nose is slightly less narrow. Still a short board nose as opposed to a wider, rounder nose. I have had issues with fat nosed boards getting down the face when periods are up about 14 seconds, which is where a lot of the surf I get falls.

Anyway, it is way different than the boards I have been riding for a decade. It really took me two sessions to fib the spot, but mid way yesterday it clicked.

Piggety - No. And that is what kind of sucks about the program. It works like Netflix. Luckily, I still have my buddies find to fill the gap. I think the program would be great for me in summer when the mrs. is home and I get to surf daily. This time of year, between thin windows and falling snow, I'm lucky if I surf once a week.

Next step is talking with 1) my shaper and 2) peeps at Finatics. To try to dial in something. Also, when I signed up tere was only one option and it include free shipping. Hoping they honor that with my basic membership, or I'll spend my money elsewhere.

[icelanticskier]

i really like 5'11/6'0 x 19 x 2.38. so versatile. for our waves here, i may try 5'11 x 19.25 x 2.38 28.5l volume. more shortboardish than my 5'8 sprocket for sure. should handle thigh to head and a half no prob. i hear what yer saying about wider nosed boards in better surf. i rarely have that issue here

rog

[Piggity]

I thought there was only 1 option when I looked at it before. The gap without fins sucks, that's probably why they have the platinum option where you can get 2 sets of fins at the same time. I guess they're going for the high end surfers, the ones with their board on top of the mercedes.

Photo of the new ride, fat boy special. 34L of volume 6'2" X 19.75 X 2.65

[icelanticskier]

looks real nice piggers^^^^^^^^^

rog

[Piggity]

Thanks, got a few surfs on it. It's a good board for HH-OH, exactly what I was targeting when I asked for 34L's. He brought the tail in nice and tight too. Flat right now but new swell filling in tonight/tomorrow, patiently waiting for it.

[Ottime]

Full on Victory at Sea around noon today when we drove by. Waves were big but not huge. Still with the 30 or so knot onshore, waves were breaking out in the middle of the cove. Match that with suddenly moving out flow and this is a good day to stay on land. Maybe this cleans up a bit in the next few days.

Meanwhile a friend scored on a 53' Cat. Got it of a tweeker who had inherited it, ran is ashore twice and need money to pay harbor patrol. Got a crazy sweet deal. Crazy. Anyway, it was anchored out by the wharf earlier today and with the storm moving in, had to set sail to ride out the storm. I expect some crazy captain stories when he pulls in later today.

[Piggity]

That's gotta be a rough ride. Hope he found some shelter


Stormsurf is calling for 6' at 15 around here during the peak on Saturday. Just read this and it kinda got my hopes up, praying the wind cooperates. Washing over jetties, piers and closing O'side harbor and Mission bay is something usually reserved for Late Dec/early Jan. Interesting but I'm kinda wondering if that is mainly because of the high tides

...HIGH SURF ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM 6 AM THURSDAY TO 1 PM PST MONDAY...
* LOCATION...WEST FACING BEACHES OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.
* SURF HEIGHTS...4 TO 7 FEET THURSDAY MORNING...BUILDING TO 7 TO 10 FEET THURSDAY NIGHT THROUGH SATURDAY WITH SETS 12 TO 15 FEET ALONG POINTS AND OUTER REEFS. SURF SLOWLY SUBSIDING SUNDAY WITH HEIGHTS DROPPING BELOW 7 FEET AT MOST BEACHES BY MONDAY AFTERNOON.
* TIMING...6 AM THURSDAY MORNING THROUGH 1 PM MONDAY AFTERNOON.
* TIDES...TIDES WILL PEAK DURING THE MID-MORNING HOURS AT AROUND 6 FEET...WITH A SECOND HIGH TIDE OF AROUND 4 FEET DURING THE LATE EVENING HOURS. LOWEST TIDE WILL BE AROUND -0.5 FEET DURING THE LATE AFTERNOON HOURS...WITH A SECOND LOW TIDE OF AROUND 2 FEET OCCURRING DURING THE LATE NIGHT HOURS.
* IMPACTS...HIGH SURF AND VERY STRONG RIP CURRENTS WILL RESULT IN DANGEROUS SWIMMING CONDITIONS AT THE BEACHES...ESPECIALLY FOR INEXPERIENCED SWIMMERS. MODERATE TO SIGNIFICANT BEACH EROSION IS LIKELY. WAVES BREAKING ACROSS THE ENTRANCE TO OCEANSIDE HARBOR AND MISSION BAY ARE ALSO LIKELY...ALONG WITH LARGER WAVES WASHING OVER JETTIES AND AND THE LOW LYING PORTIONS OF THE OCEAN BEACH PIER.
PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...
A HIGH SURF ADVISORY MEANS THAT HIGH SURF WILL AFFECT BEACHES IN THE ADVISORY AREA...PRODUCING RIP CURRENTS AND LOCALIZED BEACH EROSION.

[icelanticskier]

meh, 3 days outta the water. too long. buoy now 7@10 w straight off shores for morning brightens the mood. looking forward to morning. may hit 2 spots before work.

rog

[PowerWhore7]

That's gotta be a rough ride. Hope he found some shelter


Stormsurf is calling for 6' at 15 around here during the peak on Saturday. Just read this and it kinda got my hopes up, praying the wind cooperates. Washing over jetties, piers and closing O'side harbor and Mission bay is something usually reserved for Late Dec/early Jan. Interesting but I'm kinda wondering if that is mainly because of the high tides

...HIGH SURF ADVISORY IN EFFECT FROM 6 AM THURSDAY TO 1 PM PST MONDAY...
* LOCATION...WEST FACING BEACHES OF SAN DIEGO COUNTY.
* SURF HEIGHTS...4 TO 7 FEET THURSDAY MORNING...BUILDING TO 7 TO 10 FEET THURSDAY NIGHT THROUGH SATURDAY WITH SETS 12 TO 15 FEET ALONG POINTS AND OUTER REEFS. SURF SLOWLY SUBSIDING SUNDAY WITH HEIGHTS DROPPING BELOW 7 FEET AT MOST BEACHES BY MONDAY AFTERNOON.
* TIMING...6 AM THURSDAY MORNING THROUGH 1 PM MONDAY AFTERNOON.
* TIDES...TIDES WILL PEAK DURING THE MID-MORNING HOURS AT AROUND 6 FEET...WITH A SECOND HIGH TIDE OF AROUND 4 FEET DURING THE LATE EVENING HOURS. LOWEST TIDE WILL BE AROUND -0.5 FEET DURING THE LATE AFTERNOON HOURS...WITH A SECOND LOW TIDE OF AROUND 2 FEET OCCURRING DURING THE LATE NIGHT HOURS.
* IMPACTS...HIGH SURF AND VERY STRONG RIP CURRENTS WILL RESULT IN DANGEROUS SWIMMING CONDITIONS AT THE BEACHES...ESPECIALLY FOR INEXPERIENCED SWIMMERS. MODERATE TO SIGNIFICANT BEACH EROSION IS LIKELY. WAVES BREAKING ACROSS THE ENTRANCE TO OCEANSIDE HARBOR AND MISSION BAY ARE ALSO LIKELY...ALONG WITH LARGER WAVES WASHING OVER JETTIES AND AND THE LOW LYING PORTIONS OF THE OCEAN BEACH PIER.
PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...
A HIGH SURF ADVISORY MEANS THAT HIGH SURF WILL AFFECT BEACHES IN THE ADVISORY AREA...PRODUCING RIP CURRENTS AND LOCALIZED BEACH EROSION.

Holy jebus dude, it sounds like the surf is going to be better than the snow. Decisions....

[Piggity]

^Winds could be a factor, hoping it stays clean. I'd also be very surprised if the surf was washing over the OB pier and closing out Oside and MB harbor.

The HS advisory said 6am today and it's still small here. Gonna head out in an hour to catch a few warm up waves

[icelanticskier]

anybody got a cigarette or 3?

this morning was that good nh and apparently 99% of the local surfers missed the memo. i been watching this bump coming for a good week.

not big, but perfect waist/chest with offshores at about 8.5 mph. zero others out at the pipe at 815am when i pulled up. that almost never happens at that spot.

lefts/rights till i was blue in da face. perfect aframe bowls, yum.

surfed till 1030 and off to work. heard it went flat by noon. always nice to grab the windows

rog

[jtran10]

At 7:45 this morning waves were noticeably bigger but breaking on shore due to the 5.85ft high tide.

Looking at cameras for north county now seems waves are still 3ish or so with tide around 4ft. I'm betting in another hour or so the surf will be great with the calm winds.

Looks like winds should stay pretty calm, though on shore, for Saturday morning.

[Piggity]

Just got out, glassy and about 3-5' with occasional bigger set. Just me and 3 of my bros and some glassy waves. Forgot my leash and managed to not lose my board once, sweet. Getting some lunch and waiting for the incoming tide, should get better if the wind stays down.

[Ottime]

From my deck I see huudgge white caps and feel stiff winds. I face southerly, so that mean things are pretty shredded here. Bet some of the PG spots are the best bet over the next few days.

[jtran10]

Had to head to Oceanside for a moped appointment at noon today. Walked down to the beach to snap some shots. About head high, but close outs for the most part. Warm Waters in Carlsbad looked head high and clean at 11:45, but was getting pretty windy at 1. Tamarack was smaller than other spots but pretty clean too.





EDIT: IF anyone wants to tell me how to post these larger to the forum page that'd be sweet

[icelanticskier]

Just got out, glassy and about 3-5' with occasional bigger set. Just me and 3 of my bros and some glassy waves. Forgot my leash and managed to not lose my board once, sweet. Getting some lunch and waiting for the incoming tide, should get better if the wind stays down.

surfing without a leash is the way to go.

rog

[Piggity]

Magical session last night, more so the vibe than the waves I caught.

I had a feeling the waves were still filling in and would bump up on the incoming tide late in the day, so showed up around 4pm as the tide switched. Paddle out and the waves had a little bit of juice, HH-OH.

Then all of a sudden the gray skies cleared just enough to let the setting sun shine through. Bright sunshine dropped a huge rainbow over the lineup as wave after wave rolled through. Wind was variable at less than 3 knots, then it switched to side offshore creating mini rainbows as the waves rolled through and the spray came off the back.

Caught a nice right and was trying to keep up with the section. I look back and there is this emerald green chandelier following right by my side as I drive down the line. The rainbow stuck around for a solid 20+ minutes as the sunset kept the lineup bright and sunny.

It's gray and rainy this morning so not sure if today's session will be able to compare to last night's, we'll see. I do have some bacon on the stove right now so today will not suck

[jtran10]

Well, big waves are different. Really got JONG'd, but I think it was a good learning experience.

Got to the beach at 6:30 this morning, and really didn't plan my paddle out at all, besides paddling a bit south of a peak I was going towards. Had my 7'6" which is still a bit/a ways? too big for me to duck dive. Ended up struggling to paddle out for 20 minutes before giving up and heading back to the beach to catch my breath. Sat and watched the waves, started to time the sets, and realized I should have done this from the beginning.

After a 10 minute break paddled back out right after a set, and was out within 3-5 minutes. Learning experience #1.

Once out there I realized my arms were just dead, since I've only really been able to surf 1-2 times a week recently. The bigger sets were easily OH, a bit too much for me still, so let those roll through. Tried paddling for a couple smaller waves that were in my comfort zone, but just didn't have any energy in my arms at all. After a little while longer it was time to go to work, and I boogie boarded the white water back in.

Thinking about the session there were many waves I could have had if I wasn't such a JONG on the initial paddle out. I think low energy and big waves really got my fear factor up higher than it really should have been. Next time out I'm going to time my paddle, stay relaxed, and I'll be good.

Gonna head back out tomorrow morning assuming the swell doesn't get too much bigger (but I hope it does for you guys)