Anyone else get some today...?

**PowerWhore7** · 09-11-2013, 08:43 AM

I’ll be roaming the coast today, let you know what I find.....

**Tectonically_Neglected** · 09-11-2013, 12:59 PM

Nice pics highway!

I royally fucked up my knee yesterday, falling out of a boulder in the gym. Seeing a specialist tomorrow but don't have high hopes. I'm afraid I've lost any chances of a surf autumn and might even have ended a ski season before it even started...

Fuck.

**Ottime** · 09-11-2013, 01:32 PM

Vibes. And hopefully your just a wuss and it is no biggie.

**Tectonically_Neglected** · 09-11-2013, 02:11 PM

Haha, yeah I hope so too, actually. Much rather be a wuss and hitting some surf and pow than the other option.

Cheers for the vibes man.

**PowerWhore7** · 09-11-2013, 04:35 PM

TN- vibes dude, give it a minute. I bet it’s not as bad as you think....

OTT- basically lake pacifico all day but starting to pick up, I would say sunset combo sess should be fun. Depending on your wind situation of course

Friday seems to be the day, hopefully everyone has to work and the kids get extra homework or some shit. Definitely will be on it all day tomorrow, let u know

**Ottime** · 09-11-2013, 09:59 PM

Yeah, cause when there is the first sign of swell in a moth, and you get extra homework, you'd be all over it on Friday after school cause you don't procrastinate at fifteen.

Anyway. No wind. Small combo. No one out. I'd say about chest high on the sets. Nothing epic, but I did get a barrel/cover up for an actual three seconds. Fun enough for the last hour of light. I'll be out tomorrow night. Looks like that WNW is coming in at 300^ here.

**BS720** · 09-12-2013, 03:40 AM

Good vibes, Tech Neg. I have to say, this tide situation is a mofo. If it's looking decent, I'm probably surfing with a headlamp tomorrow night.

**PowerWhore7** · 09-12-2013, 09:11 AM

THURSDAY - New SSW swell continues to steadily build in through the day, joined by some new NW swell energy in the afternoon/evening. Better exposed breaks are good for waist-chest high waves, as top exposures offer plus sets through the AM tide push. More size shows late in the day.

**Atrain505** · 09-12-2013, 10:32 AM

Yesterday evening was pretty damn good up here! 5pm-well past sunset was super clean and shoulder to head high. Slight off shores. Had to move to victoria bc for 9 months due to the wife's work. Sucks because I have to travel more for work than I already do, but the big, big plus is I am now very close to good surf. First time in 6+ years I have lived near surf instead of 5+ hours away.

I will be a much more frequent contributor to this thread as the winter juice starts lighting up these south island breaks. First time checking them out yesterday and I was pleasantly surprised. Great waves. Put a huge ding in my board paddling back in the dark and not noticing boulders beneath the surface at a spot I don't know. Totally worth it!

**icelanticskier** · 09-12-2013, 11:21 AM

maine. rivermouth ogt. finally some swell showing. shortboard. buh bye longboard

. 1st one to paddleout at 830am. just me and one other guy till the hoardes showed up over an hour and a half later. so glad the locals still haven't figured out how to avoid the crowds there yet

. waist+ sets and perfectly clean. some fun nuggets fer sure. got out just as a 3rd person got in the water. hate crowds.

the next 5/6 days look really fun as the swell builds and winds stay straight offshores 24 hours a day for a week.

rog

**Ottime** · 09-12-2013, 11:54 AM

Can't wait to see and hear more. Take pics if you can. That is an area that has me intrigued. I imagine fall is pretty epic up there, with winter being a bit big and raw. But I don't know.

My buddy was once surfing a south swell spot on a good day. The spot I blogged about back in June. The wave is way outside, but on a long period swell, the white water will swiftly wash all the way to the beach. At the end of his last wave, he straightened out and belly rode in. Right before hitting sand he cruise sped right across the top of a jagged, missile encrusted rock. Tore the shit out of his board. Basically shredded the bottom with 25 or 30 slices and three FCS plugs ripped out. So, yeah, those inside rocks need be minded.

BS720, stop complaining and come down and surf the slab you found me on a few weeks back. It will work this nw until about a 5' tide. The south reef will kind of work both swells and all the way to 6' tide. Kind I meaning you will find really sick ledge sections that will quickly disappear or turn mean. Kind if fun.

**Piggity** · 09-12-2013, 11:56 AM

Originally Posted by jtran10

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/spo/4031551760.html

Any thoughts on this board? Looking for something for small days that's not my LB. PW said he has a 5 11 x 21.5 x 2 5/8. I'm trying to find something similar.

Did you pick up the board? If not, name your price range and I"ll go through my garage and find a board for you. Most of my boards are similar size except maybe 20" wide and 2.4'+ thick

I will be a much more frequent contributor to this thread as the winter juice starts lighting up these south island breaks.

Photos every once in a while, Curious about the setups up that way

Put a huge ding in my board paddling back in the dark and not noticing boulders beneath the surface at a spot I don't know. Totally worth it!

Rinse it with fresh water, let'er dry out a few days, grab a beer or six, exacto off the loose glass, slap some resin on it, sand'er up, repeat cycle until the board snaps in half

**jtran10** · 09-12-2013, 12:14 PM

fun session last night again. swell definitely picking up. with the swell came the crowd too, but about 20 mins before sunset everyone seemed to leave and the waves became more consistent.

unfortunately the parents will be in town this weekend and probably don't want to sit on the beach watching me surf

**jtran10** · 09-12-2013, 12:20 PM

[QUOTE=Piggity;4055558]Did you pick up the board? If not, name your price range and I"ll go through my garage and find a board for you. Most of my boards are similar size except maybe 20" wide and 2.4'+ thick

Pretty flexible on price as long as the board is pretty close to what I'm looking for. I want something for mushier days, like knee to chest high range. Could swing by at some point and check the boards that you've got out next week...

**Atrain505** · 09-12-2013, 03:40 PM

Originally Posted by Ottime

Can't wait to see and hear more. Take pics if you can. That is an area that has me intrigued. I imagine fall is pretty epic up there, with winter being a bit big and raw. But I don't know.

I will nab some pics at some point. Yesterday was definitely the day for it though. Low lying fog out over the ocean. Break in perfect sunshine, sun setting. Too amped. Must surf. The straight is apparently the beauty and the lame part of the south island. Because it is in a straight it is dead flat for the majority of the summer = lame. Big and huge and raw in the winter means more spots further down the straight start working in the winter. At least that's what I've heard. Looking forward to exploring this winter.

Piggity I've repaired lots of my boards with resin and glass...I think this one requires some foam beyond resin job. Any suggestions on foam I could use that could be found at a local hardware store? Perhaps I'll just stop by the local board repair guy and try to grab some scraps.

**Piggity** · 09-12-2013, 05:20 PM

Damn, that ding sounds big. I had a board I kept around for situations like that but I just ended up using filler mixed with resin to keep the repair light. I'm no expert so don't listen to my advice. Especially about the 1 or 6 beers, sounds like you're gonna need a 12 pack

JT, sounds good. if we ever get some decent waves again. need. waves. soon.

**PowerWhore7** · 09-12-2013, 05:47 PM

Meh, it was better than working....

Built it & they will come

**Ottime** · 09-13-2013, 08:03 AM

Go to a shaper. Try always have foam around. I also have an old board. If need be, I can shop you a chunk of foam. Just re shape and resin together. But you need to be skilled with a router.

Easier is using Qcell, cavicell or glass bubbles. The filler Pigs mentioned. You can buy these through the mail or at a local glass supply shop if you have one. The ding repair guy will likely have a source for these.

Qcell is super light, but it makes a thick liquid. Cavicell is heavier but makes a paste. If you are filling a hole use the former. If you need to shape a rail use the later. They are both a pain to sand. So be accurate.

**CabbieMcJones** · 09-13-2013, 09:32 AM

Got worked in the whitewater last night at Goldenwest but at least it was fun and that is where I'm supposed to be for now. Maybe only 5 people and a kiteboarder in sight, so it was all I could eat.

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**icelanticskier** · 09-13-2013, 09:32 AM

nice maine blog and pix, ott

. nice pix PW^^^^^^

ogt again this am. this time had it all to myself for 1st hour till the masses showed like clockwork. nice that they are slow to suit up and like to talk a lot. gave me a good 20 additional minutes of stomach high clean solitude. things look to tick up for the weekend with shoulder high sets.

rog

**CabbieMcJones** · 09-13-2013, 09:35 AM

Got worked in the whitewater last night at Goldenwest but at least it was fun and that is where I'm supposed to be for now. Maybe only 5 people and a kiteboarder in sight, so it was all I could eat.

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**Ottime** · 09-13-2013, 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by icelanticskier

nice maine blog and pix, ott

.

Thanks. I only wish I was able to get a few more surfing pics, but I never seemed to have my camera with me, or at the ready, when I found someone getting waves. I kind of wish I shot the river mouth the night it was going off. Instead I was doing a combination of life saving and educating about sandbars and currents with my nephews a few hundred yards away. I can vaguely recall yelling at the 7 year old as he was slipping off the inside of the bar into six foot deep was, and as his brothers took off for shore, and I had my two year old in my arms, "You MUST swim!!"

Anyway.

Super high tide, strong nw winds and not quite enough swell combined for a complete shit show as my favorite mile received spill over from no smiles and the hungry crowd stoked for everything. What I learned last night is that I don't really like people, but if I am going to be around them, I'd rather be at the good spot with a distinct take off spot as opposed to a spread out mediocre point. I've never seen back paddlers at this place before. Fuck. Get over yourselves. And loud talkers in the water kind of blow too. Picked off mostly junky waves, but got a hold of one good one and hit it hard twice. First a carve, then a fins free above the lip. So, I guess it was better than sucky. But I can't wait until we get some real waves and the goons thin out. I don't mind fighting for waves with rippers, but I've got to say the hungry B crowd blows. Maybe it is just that UC is back in session, but I'm pretty sure many of the most annoying folks out were actually just locals who were almost good enough to shred, but not quite.

Looks like this is the peak, but stuff down the road does not look flat. Can we just stop the winds and return to autumn please?

**PowerWhore7** · 09-13-2013, 10:02 AM

CabbieMcJones - we leaving for Trestles in an hour, 10am PST, old green chevy tahoe with GSA sticker on the back

**jtran10** · 09-13-2013, 10:46 AM

Went out for sunset last night and sunrise this morning. Last night had some fun waves. This morning was strange. Swell definitely built through the night but it was super mushy and waves just weren't breaking where I was. Would've been great on the LB though. Tide wasn't even that high, so kinda confused, but oh well.

Kind of wish I'd went north to Oside - think beaches south of the pier would be real good.