Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
Search CL. Up here there tend to be several shorties for sale at any one time. Usually one will be in the $10-$20 range. Or look for a neoprene best. Or you might like the Bond woman neoprene one piece suit with boob zipper.
On the wetsuit note...
...I just bought the Oneill Psycho III 3/2 and that fucker is like a god damn dry suit. I swear it’s warmer than most 4/3’s and it’s super flexible, pissing in it is a fucking nightmare though. The piss just stays in the suit until you open up the neck and let water in, and then it’s still a salt water/pee combo that remains for A WHILE
The surf has been super fun in The OC this week, warm - sunny & peaky. Still fucking crowded though, WTF? When do your rugrats go back to school?
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
^I think the peeps hang out after labor day if the weather is hot like it's been. One cold miserable day and all the stragglers go bye bye, then the santa ana's come and so do the combo swells. patience.
PS - You obviously don't subscribe to ottime's no peeing in the wetsuit policy
anyone wanna surf this weekend sat afternoon or sunday anytime?
I'm surfing in the morning. Wanna meet me in Santa Cruz?
I bet you smell great when you peel that fucker off.
I have been told that the ammonia in urine breaks down neoprene, hence my policy. Not sure if it is true, but the policy is certainly hygienic.
And, new mostly surfless blog post up, about going home.
How does 68F water, 29F air, 98% humidity, 10 knot straight and steady off shore and 4'@10s sound to you?
Shore Break
Outside!!!!
I wish I spent more time shooting this gal. She was killing it. That is her dad's head behind her. He was pushing her into everything.
More at www.wavestoke.blogspot.com
Last edited by Ottime; 09-06-2013 at 02:59 PM.
I'm up for a surf tomorrow!
Looks like 3-4'@6s coming in with a light offshore wind. Stoked. Clean and pretty solid conditions at last! Wooohooooooooo.
I'll be dreaming of surfing tomorrow...
how's that for core
I'll be at La Jolla Shores tomorrow pretty much all day. We'll also have a sunset surf and bonfire by tower 33. I've never done a sunset surf in CA.
...doubt I'll have any arms left for Sunday
jtran, you are welcome of course
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
I was racking my brain and realized that I haven't surfed at sunset in Hawaii either. They discourage going out at dawn and dusk, say that's when the sharks attack. Or when the water is murky. Don't know if any of that is really true and I saw plenty of people surfing then, one guy even had a flashlight taped to the nose. But I watched sunset every evening from the shore.
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
Sunset surf was pretty epic last night. I had it all to myself for twenty minutes, after the three short boarders left and before the three long boarders paddled out. Great long boarding conditions. Not so much for the short board. Got plenty of long nose rides on a board that is definitely not a nose rider. The best one was a 20 yard section with me in the front 2/5, mid way in a cross step. So stoked I made it. Woot.
Watching the fall weather and planning a mid day session up north on the short board.
Out to get some here at PC who's the mag here with the rv with a massive Teton sticker on the back? Got change for a nickel?
Visiting the EC looking for waves; where's rog?? Rye, Wells; what's the best bet?? Forecast is looking pretty minimal, any chance of finding some rides Sunday or Monday??
If it is micro Wells is always a good bet to make the most of nothing. Picks up plenty of swell and starts working at uber small. Mid high tide comin in is best, but works through most of the swing.
Great weather today. Read the wrong tide chart today and ended up surfing while it was swamped. Oops. Still fun chest high, if a bit slow.
I done ditched the main land for Martha's Vineyard. Surf today was perfect a-frame offshore 70 degree water 75 degree air post Labor Day country club surfing at squibby and the honey hole. No suit, a 9'0, my fave ball cap, and lovely waist high peelers coming thru. Winds overnight will continue out of the n-nne at 5-10 with a 9 sec period swell. Yumain't nothin quite like surfing the vineyard. 'twas my gals 1st time. After our 1st 10 minutes out she was like "where are we surfing again?" So cool
up at 430am for dawn duty. Oh darn....will be home Wednesday if yer still around.
Vancouver island was not nearly as good this weekend as the last one. About the same end size of waves but shorter period and mostly onshore winds. Still always good to be surfing and in the water! Cheers to more fall/winter swells.
Saturday turned out a bit suckish. Started out very small but cleanish then when the height picked up, the wind came in also, so things got a lot more messy. Had to leave early due to family obligations. No biggie.
Sounds like a lot of us had a less than stellar Saturday. Here is to mo' better fall. Looks like we could actually get a nice combo to end the week.
surfed yellow house last night with only 1 other guy out. Not very good, but when the set waves did show every 10-15 mins they were held up all the way to the shallows. Looked a lot bigger and better where I was than any of the other surrounding breaks, so I consider it a success.
Excited for the end of week uptick
Small but fun surf this Saturday and Sunday in Newport. It reminded me that waist high+ can actually be fun in the 56th street zone. I probably should have surfed a bit more in August, but I forgot how fun small Newport can be. Two weekends in a row of fun surf, although Labor Day weekend was obviously far better.
It is nice to finally see some swell for the end of this week. I have not been to Cotton's in quite a while.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Long time no post . Fun recreational surf (waist -shoulder hi) every couple days the last few weeks on the Outer Banks of NC with amazing water temps/clarity and pushing 80 degrees . I think real surf is on the way soon though
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On the way?looking like waist to head clean surf from Thursday-at least Tuesday for Maine. Was supposed to go away again this weekend but just cancelled due to swell forecast. Driving home from vinyard trip now. What a fucking enchanting surf/cycling destination. May head back over in a few weeks. God I miss my short board. Thursday
. Rog
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Post up reports west coast guys. I'm bettin on a sunset combo session, but have plenty of work to keep me busy if the swells are not yet showing.
I'm lookin to you guys south and north of me seeing and reporting incoming swell. If you surf this morning, then I'll go out tonight.
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