FUCK, FUCK, FUCK! This is god damn ridiculous, 5 days in a row of SUP and not a fucking wave over knee high to surf, plus NOTHING in the near future. FML....![]()
FUCK, FUCK, FUCK! This is god damn ridiculous, 5 days in a row of SUP and not a fucking wave over knee high to surf, plus NOTHING in the near future. FML....![]()
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Patience young Jedi. This was a good summer. Not epic, but the best one we have had in quite some time. The ocean must rest. Soon it will be falls. And the south will make its final stand as the north turns on giving us both solid swells an bountiful snow. A few weeks of nothing is really not all that much to endure. You could be living in Jersey.
F-L-A-T here. well pretty close. maybe something lil by the weekend/of course. after months and months of surf, a break in the action isn't the worst thing in the world. good for recharging the batteries of the body and mind. fresh.
rog
A little less than waist high on Lake Michigan all day yesterday and right into the evening. Warm and sunny.
Bumped into bs720 at my favorite little slab last night. Ask him about the goat path to the ocean. I can taste fall on my lips.
Would you San Diego peoples mind rsvping cause I'm not going if you don't go! http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Diego-maggots!
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
SSW appears to be making a small return. 2-3 on sunday/monday. something, finally!
^^Of course, I am going out of town on Sunday.
Looks like maybe a wave or two tomorrow and Saturday, life has meaning again.
jtran: I will be back in town the first week of September so lets get San-O back up and running on Thursdays again.
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Ok, well I guess the beer party is not happening. I tried though! Obviously I need to sack up for SanO and you guys can all see how bad I surf.
I'm getting really fixated on Malibu right now. Too many Gidget movies I guess. Has anybody surfed over there? There's a hostel in Santa Monica so I could make an easy drive up, have an afternoon scout, stay the night, and make a dawn patrol session. Feeling a surf adventure coming on...hmmmm maybe that would fit in with SanO since i'll be heading north.
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
There is a hostel near Malibu? That is pretty nice. I've never surfed the place, but I knew about it even before I began surfing. I remember driving by it in '86 with my family. That is all I know. But it looks like a damn nice set up. Bummer on the no beer party. I was just saying to bs720 last night how it is too bad you were in SC last summer. I never got myself over to the Point, but this past summer the Hook has pretty much been my son's and my hang out whenever the tide was low late morning. Oh well.
Been out surfing quite a bit before we went on holidays to the Bretagne W coast (just above La Torche). Got in one day with (for me) most awesome waves. Never really surfed strong ocean surf before. Getting into a wave was so much easier: didn't have to paddle like a loony to make small dimples even. But that one day, the waves weren't dimples at all! Caught one or two overhead sets that just kept going and going and going. That and the board I had rented (smaller and more turny) may have been my biggest surfing eye openers of the year up till now. So much time to get your shite together and start carving and flowing. And the nimbleness of the board (I guess I really am on a tankership kinda plank)! Can't get that lovely feeling of creeping up higher into the pocket/ face out of my head.
I envy those that can experience that feeling on a daily basis.
On another note: dropped by a local shaper and will be losing my beginner board in a month or so! Gear stoke!
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
Yeah, about $50/night which is awesome in such an expensive area.
I actually lived in Marina two summers ago, in Monterey county. Made friends in Santa Cruz though so I went there constantly. I've always loved that town even though it's changed so much over the years but I would still be happy to live there given the chance. They have my all-time favorite disc golf course, De La Veaga, and the single track is so amazing. I hung out plenty at the hook as well as the point, not surfing, but learning about it.
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
Nuff said...
Sorry dude, I didn’t mean to steal your thunder. San Diego is kind of out of my reach so I wouldn’t be able to make it, but I thought there were plenty of SD peeps to fill out your line-up and my party wouldn’t affect your turnout. You are always welcome at San-O and I am sure we could find you a couch to crash on if too many IPA’s were consumed.![]()
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
had a fun session for the first time in weeks? last night. Sun was out, water is kind of warm, glassy conditions, and some waves here and there, really small but fun nonetheless.
Really digging this third straight sunny morning on the coast too
Sounds like you hit a new high TN. The really neat thin about surfing is that you keep rediscovering things about boards, waves, the ocean, breaks, tides, winds and so on. Kind of cool if you enjoy it. Frustrating as hell if you don't.
Double session today in double over ankle conditions. Two 45 minute sessions. One early at a left hand beach/rock bottom break and one in the afternoon at a right hand point break. Thinking if entering the old board surf contest coming up in September. With this much time on the log I will at least not embarrass myself.
Might try to get my son out on Sunday for a little paddle.
Srsly?! Because I will take you up on that, bra. Does that mean I can call you bra? You can call me sista, well maybe auntie is more like it. I love being called auntie anyway. Need to bring that to the mainland.
No can do this week, I have to go back to the dentist in Mexico. But please keep me in the loop and I will come.
Today I go back to La Jolla. Making some friends over there and one chick even surfs at Tourmaline.
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
Yeah, but did you measure from the the front or the back?![]()
I hope you do enter the comp. You might get some nice pics out of that, yeah? Oooh, maybe win a pretty board.
When I was reading about Malibu on wannasurf, somebody said it doesn't matter if you get dropped in on, because if you are really good you can make a bottom turn and just go around them. Is that true? I don't have much problem on the ski hill with slower skiers, I just go around, so it seems like a perfect soln.
Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
Henry David Thoreau
This flat spell is really making me appreciate the May/June/July run. It was surfable almost every day, and I got used to weekend go outs being something to expect, as opposed to something to cherish.
Surfline is calling the water in Newport 55-59!!! I think I will pass on 1-3 given that temp. It makes me really respect the guys up north.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Lots of stoke in this thread for a flat spell in summer, good stuff! Can't wait until the waves start going off again. How can I possibly think about going under the knife when October is just around the corner.....drooling for it to be here now.
Surfed a soft top for the first time, wavestorm specifically. Small, 1-2' at best. The board is difficult in many aspects. Slippery, not responsive, difficult to swing around and other things, I'm sure. Lifeguard was out during his break on the same board and he suggested to not turn it. I knew what he meant since I had just tried to set a rail on a bottom turn the wave before, key word is tried. Took his advice and Bam, there it was. Like solving a rubik's cube. Caught a couple fun ones to the beach.
Yup. That sounds correct. Trying to use the rail is just gonna end up bad. I paddled around on one today. Visited an otter out in the kelp. Caught one almost wave. True to get my son to join me. He mostly just wants to practice his cross step at is sat in the sand. Awesome beach day. Still kind of flat. And yes, October can't come soon enough.
Beginner board is a 7'10" NSP 'playmobil board'. Got it cheap and it's pretty much indestrucable.
I'm getting a 6’4″ x 21″ x 2,6″ (thickness is not completely set yet). It should be a wavecatcher, with lots of volume and a round tail. Should give me some speed, be able to duck dive and a decent amount of manouverablility. Klick'this link for a pic of a similar shaped board for an idea of what I'm getting myself into.
@Ottime: yeah, I'm really hooked on surfing now. Used to do a ton of windsurfing about 25years ago and picked normal surfing up last year. So, so, so much fun. Maybe even on par with a really good day skiing powder...
drove around sunday after doing some body surfing testing the theory "is it always bigger at Oside harbor than elsewhere in north county". The conclusion is that that's true. Waves seemed to be more consistent, better formed, and almost waist high there, while I was barley getting anything that same morning in Carlsbad (and Oside beach breaks all were just breaking on the shore).
Now the question is, where's the free parking around there? Generally am up there on my moped so don't need anything big, but hate paying $2 an hour at least.
went out yesterday evening for a quick session. pretty glassy and some waist high windswell waves coming through. fun session
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