Anyone else get some today...?

[liv2ski]

Surf suppose to pick up for N San Diego County Tuesday-Thursday. Go git some.

[jtran10]

had 2 sessions yesterday, in the morning when it got sunny, and the cold evening hour. Tons of fun but small waves. Heading to tahoe and the bay area next several days, so no surf for me. That was a good day to go out on.

[Ottime]

^^^ill be back on Friday I you are around SC. I have boards and a suit to borrow if you want. M Hotline if it fits. If you want to get in the water that is.

Still look decent this morning. Small fun clean stuff. Might give it a go tomorrow morning for one last session before we had back. Been fun visiting out here. The lobster is way better than in Cali.

[shera]

The lobster is way better than in Cali.

Omg, yeah. Spiny is no comparison.

[Ottime]

And I'm sorry, but it ain't really a lobsta' if it ain't got no claws.

Had another fun micro session yesterday morning followed by a day at the beach with cousins followed by evening beers on the beach with old friends. A beautiful Maine day. Cleaning and packing up this morning and saying good bye. A quick visit and maybe a chance to meet my sister's boyfriend in BeanTown tonight. After three weeks of good times we are ready to get home and sleep in our own bed. And surf some long period swell.

[shera]

Dude I think you are missing the long period swell right now. I went out yesterday (with 60 other people - yes I counted) and thrashed around in waves that were too big for me. First tried the north side because it's smaller, sups over there. But you have to go right and I'm having enough trouble wrapping my mind around left, but I made a couple in the wash.

Then I go south towards the pumphouse side - Tourmaline has a quasi channel so I didn't get completely pummeled, likewise didn't get completely in there. Was trying to just get up on the last part of the shoulder, almost inside really and of course I have to step off because somebody is up and riding from way outside to the bitter end. He comes paddling back out and informs me I'm in the impact zone. Whatever, I was the furthest person toward the channel looking for some dregs inside to ride. And I got off immediately to stay out of his way. It was still over 3' where I was, I just rode the next white wall to shore and went home. Bah.

I went to crossfit instead of surfing today but I went and looked at the sunset cliffs breaks on the way home, all overhead. So many people both days out in the water. Very long time between sets. Glassy and clean and beautiful. Wish I could surf mo bettah.

I'm ready for it to go down just so I can get back in the water. Hahha, so lame, I know. Like avoiding powder snow.

/crybabying

[liv2ski]

Damn, wish I had gone to the Cliffs as it was very inconsistent at Beacons this morning. Bummer is all my surfing buds live in N County, so they want to surf a south swell up there.

[icelanticskier]

SheRa. maine. just sayin

country club surfing all over. and real lobstah

not much surf to speak of here since yesterday. a welcome break.

rog

[Ottime]

He does have a point, that rog. Surfed five times and never had anyone but my buddies out sharing waves. Easy learning waves at that. And super consistent short period high wave count sessions. Nothing epic, or great even, but loads of fun. And again, no crowds. Water is a bit cooler, but not much.

Honestly, learning in crowds and long period swells kind of sucks. Still, keep at it and get mo betta. And try to avoid surfing with douchebags.

[shera]

SheRa. maine. just sayin

country club surfing all over. and real lobstah

Sounds brilliant. On the list.

Honestly, learning in crowds and long period swells kind of sucks. Still, keep at it and get mo betta. And try to avoid surfing with douchebags.

This is socal. I guess everyone is totally nice up your way. Actually I know how it works pretty well from pleasure point. You get out in the lineup, you get a chance to fit in, if you don't fit in you get run off, end of story. There's a certain justice to it.

Tourmaline is an interesting mix of older, skillful longboarders and people who suck, including waaaaay worse than me. If nothing else from the crowds, I'm developing an eye, for the wave and where people sit and what rides they get and all of that. Just looking around.

I def belong in kook lane, that's all there is to it. I'm ok with that. I'm going to meet up with some other beginners at Fletchers Cove (Solana) on Sunday. Found them on the internet - I need some friendly faces out there with me.

[shera]

And honestly, there's a thing with older guys that has nothing to do with surfing, I see it among the older ski instructors all the time, they can be such pompous asses. It makes them feel good, validating. That's not about me, it's about them, so I don't sweat it. And I know I ski better and bolder than any of them, so I'm pretty much self validated no matter what happens.

[liv2ski]

And honestly, there's a thing with older guys that has nothing to do with surfing, I see it among the older ski instructors all the time, they can be such pompous asses.

Well...errr, my buddies are likely the nicest guys you will ever meet in the water or on land. Over the years, we have introduced a bunch of people to surfing (ladies too). Last Friday was us 3 older doods, but Dan invited 3 younger guys that just need time in the water to figure it all out. So ya, pretty much a penis convention surfing with us, but your welcome to join the 3 Amigos and we will block for you so you can get a few. Here is a picture so you know what to expect

[hooked]

You have to define "older guys". I need to know if I should be offended (and whether to pull my pants up to my nipples and tell you to get off my lawn)

[shera]

You have to define "older guys". I need to know if I should be offended (and whether to pull my pants up to my nipples and tell you to get off my lawn)

Well, I mean guys my own age. And I'm one of those that likes to walk on the grass. I went to a boarding school in high school where it wasn't allowed.

Well...errr, my buddies are likely the nicest guys you will ever meet in the water or on land. Over the years, we have introduced a bunch of people to surfing (ladies too). Last Friday was us 3 older doods, but Dan invited 3 younger guys that just need time in the water to figure it all out. So ya, pretty much a penis convention surfing with us, but your welcome to join the 3 Amigos and we will block for you so you can get a few. Here is a picture so you know what to expect

I love it!!!!!!! I would put that on my wall! Didn't know Speedo was making depends. Which one is you?

I had a really fun time in the wwater this morning and the only thing that would make it better would be some friends, so yeah, name the day. Just realize that I'm still learning what this is all about.

Tourmo only had 30 people in the water this morning, and I resigned myself to the north side where there was only one other person in the water due to the very small wave there. About five of the mob from the pumphouse side came over, complaining about people without leashes, but they didn't bother me. Maybe I felt better since I was there first. And the waves were so small they didn't stay long, haha.

So I'm gonna learn to go right I guess. I had a big smile on my face today. Felt like I was paddling pretty strong.

[Ottime]

Some old guys ain't bad. It is the ones who never seemed to get their lives together and are perpetually working with the brain if a seventeen year old. I call them the jolly grumpy guys. I used to live with one. He was fine with me but pretty much gave every stranger in the water stink eye. And would paddle for nearly every wave.

You should hook up with liv2ski. Pack mentality works wonders in crowds. Even just hearin a friendly hoot as you paddle can work wonders for wave count.

Back home and in the water. A bit of junk out there but stil found some fun waist to head bowls. Nice to be back on my board. Tomorrow holds some promise.

[liv2ski]

Today was a tale of two spots. About 8 of the guys met up at Swami's. 4 of us paddled out at the main peak (me) and we had a sucky session. The other guys paddled out up north at Boneyard and had a great time My 2 amigos, Tom (orange shorts) and Dan (2nd from the left) were both up at Boneyard and caught a bunch of waves. This just hasn't been my week for surf

[icelanticskier]

complaining about people without leashes

weird. using/relying on leashes teaches bad habits, imo. going without teaches to keep yer board close to you so no one close to you gets speared. and you'll wanna only go for makeable good waves so you reduce the risk of letting it go to shore.

rog

[Ottime]

Today was a tale of two spots. About 8 of the guys met up at Swami's. 4 of us paddled out at the main peak (me) and we had a sucky session. The other guys paddled out up north at Boneyard and had a great time My 2 amigos, Tom (orange shorts) and Dan (2nd from the left) were both up at Boneyard and caught a bunch of waves. This just hasn't been my week for surf

Must of been too many old guys out.

weird. using/relying on leashes teaches bad habits, imo. going without teaches to keep yer board close to you so no one close to you gets speared. and you'll wanna only go for makeable good waves so you reduce the risk of letting it go to shore.

rog

Agreed. As long as the said leashless actually hold on to their boards.

I thought we might get called out by the life guards at wells the other day, like when we were kids, cause we had no leashes. Did not lose our boards then, and did not the other day. Sometimes it is very hard to explain to the baby sitters they hire to work that beach (at least years ago - they may be actually water people today) that it is better for a surfer to just not lose their board instead of kicking it to shore, at the end of a 8' leash, toward all the tourist on the inside who for some reason like to stand right in front of where you surf, every time they take a wave. Is that a run-on sentence?

But, anyway, folks who complain about folks with out leashes on who are not losing their boards regularly, just blow. My longboard does not have a leash plug. It was built before sissy ropes. And no I won't add on. It is not meant to have one. I just wish I could surf a head high day at second peak with no one on the inside. That would be stellar. With the crowds that are out these days, I would just be too nervous to try to hook those thirty pounds up in the curl like it wants to be ridden.

Almost took off my short board leash today, but decide to keep it on. Was a good call.

[icelanticskier]

^^^^^^ya man. and btw, you timed yer departure perfectly. been nothing all week. tomorrow was looking like waist+ high clean. now maybe thigh sets and textured. at best. then more nothing much through till late next week. still satisfied after that fairly long non tropical fun summer surf action. will be racing the mtb weekly all month with a possible 100km offroad event in a coupla weeks. will surf when it's good. winter cometh

rog

[icelanticskier]

tomorrow was looking like waist+ high clean.

well well well, surprise surprise

got up all grumpy this am from the friggin alarm clock that my gal sets for 530am for her work shift that starts at 7, but she hits the snooze button every 9 minutes till fucking 6:51 then literally jumps into her scrubs and off to work she goes

so I get up, hop on my bike and roll the mile down the dirt road to check the surf. grumpy. yawning. meh. roll up knowing that the buoy had bumped up to near 3ft @ 8/9 seconds and upon inspection I pedal back to grab my boards. i'd say thigh + sets with an ever so slight texture due to a light sw wind. well I got back to the beach and into the water on a lovely Saturday morning with (now) clean waist high groundswell sets rolling through with ZERO surfers between the buoys which left a good 1/2 mile + of perfect beach break all to myself for the next hour and a half. unreal. a Saturday with perfect lil waves rolling through and a pack of fools at th north and south ends and NO ONE in the middle where most of the larger sets were hitting. my buddy tom shows up, paddles out to me and sez, "what did ya jedi mind trick everyone through special brain wave frequency to stay far far away from you?" I said no tom it's like this pretty much every day i'm not kidding

anyway, lovely easy breezy waves on the 8'2". some of them really serviceable. especially nice that the wind went straight west for a good hour which really amplified what was coming in.

maybe more early in the week. off to worky

rog

[Ottime]

Definitely had some luck with my timing. Could not even get out at the prime time/location for all the swell but still had fun in the water over five sessions.

This morning worked out. Quirky as hell, but when you found them, the lefts delivered. Chest plus again. Punchy.

Parking lot had way too many and the county line was lacking so we kept on truckin to chang's an found the empty goods. Always worth looking around the corner.

[icelanticskier]

^^^glad yer gettin some

now that we've pm'd, texted, and even spoken on the phone, next year we'll take the next BIG step.

i know our surf time timing was a bit off, and i was working many days till 8pm, but we should be able to get together next time.

rog

[Ottime]

Give me time. I like to ease into things. Took me ten years to marry my now wife, and another ten to produce offspring. Been surfing for 27 years, and I'm still not sure if I like it or not.

Might be in the same house next year, but I've convinced the clan to look near long sands. My wife and I like the working class resort feel of york much better than the posh upper crustiness of ogunquit. Walk to beach, town, amusements, parks. And while brown's is no scoop deck, it does have a great rock to scramble on. Big lose would be that I was meeting my buddy at hook's a few nights for a beer after the kids went to sleep. But we will likely stay at sea-vu in wells for a few days anyway.

I don't think I have great pics, but will work out some sort of TR of the trip.

[icelanticskier]

heh, classic. nice

took me about 22 out of the 26 years i've been surfing to realize that i actually do like it. very much. and now living so close to the beach it's like a lovely dream that just keeps on goin. the fire for it burns hotter every day. kinda crazy.

would be awesome to have you in york. i do hear ya about the feel of it vs ogt. my time in ogt is limited to surfing the river and an occasional hooks visit. i do love being able to walk to short sands, longsands, the zoo, bars, restaurants, ice cream, concerts..........all within a mile from the house, but still live on a private dirt road in the trees. labor day can't come soon enough tho. fuck me i'm gonna freak hearing hurricane surf from the house with all the tourons mostly gone. honestly the thought of traveling somewhere hardly crosses my mind anymore. got it all right here.

looking forward to the pics and words!

rog

[Piggity]

Funny cause I almost went to boneyards last night but pipes seemed easier to get to so ended up there. Small but caught a few fun ones.

This AM drove past Ponto, TM, Tamarack and then opted for a peak several blocks south of O'side pier. Women's pro contest was in full swing at the pier, lot of people on the pier and on the beach.

Nothing epic but caught a couple fun ones, first wave the bottom dropped out and free fell into the pit. Held on for a few seconds and got speed wobbles as it drained off the inside sandbar, went for the rinse cycle before exiting. Still a nice view