Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

A smaller one from yesterday morning. The best waves were these small ones setting up from the inside peak. These two guys decided to play is safe at the corner. The big ones would occasionally peel and not clip you, but most of the big ones would clip off just about where these guys were and you really did not want to be in front of that. So they took off from the corner and rode the reform on the inside, which would set up DOH. Will get a few more pics up.

[icelanticskier]

today was very nice. on my own board. ott you were right about getting back on a much shorter rail. fuck was it coming around tight and deep.

morning can't come soon enough......

rog

[Piggity]

This thread is on overdrive past couple days, dig all the photos above.

Caught a fun session this afternoon. Mellow crowd and only me and 2 others sitting on the main peak, everyone else was sitting inside. Knew one of the guys and other was his friend so we were plucking off all the bigger sets. Wave of the day fell in my lap

[mud]

Last Thursday was powerful down in the redneck riviera thanks to tropical storm Andrea.














Ended up snapping a leash and had to call it a day.

[PowerWhore7]

^^ damn, LA looks sick ^^

breaking a leash in that spot is not an easy thing to do....nice work



Heading to State Park again this morning, hopefully to meet up with jtran for some death drops

[icelanticskier]

^^^^^we're getting a bit of lovin from andrea as well.

this morning was downright blissful out front of the restaurant. the bar is back baby!!!!! head high drops and flawless left/right a-frames. paddled out at 8am and had the place to myself for the 1st hour, then just a couple guys parked themselves about 50 yards from me on the next peak for the next hour and a half. unreal to have a peak and plenty of real estate to yerself on a beautiful sunday with chest/head high surf. the wave had quite the punch compared to typical longsands. made for many multiple+ tight snaps off the top waves with full rail to rail top to bottom surfing on the 5'10 shorty. 5' @ 10 seconds with a 140 angle and light west winds. good times. may hit up the riv mouth later for low tide if the winds go south/soutwest.

now the doggy beach walk..............

rog

[mud]

^^ damn, LA looks sick ^^

breaking a leash in that spot is not an easy thing to do....nice work



Heading to State Park again this morning, hopefully to meet up with jtran for some death drops

Pensacola Beach to be exact.

[Ottime]

8@14 from the north west filling in to replace the south as the dominant swell. South is down to 3.6@14, which would normally be a good amount if swell. Watching winds and makin a plan. Too bad the mrs and I are both combating a stomach flu type thing. I hurled at 1am after hours of nausea. Feeling better now, but she is in the dumps so I need to wait for nap time to escape for a quick one. Of course just while we are getting one of the best early June runs of surf that I can remember.

[jtran10]

went out at terramar - too crowded! caught 1 real good left, and 1 real good right. did my first kinda-cutback on the right.

6 sessions in the past 3 days have my arms about to fall off, but will probably log it this afternoon again. why not?

pw - glassy conditions at 830 too hard to pass up, especially because the wind picked up pretty early yesterday and I wanted to get on it before that happened today. But I would take less people for more bump

[Ottime]

Surfed thumping OH barrels with just my buddy for two hours. Way too crowded around here.

I'm sure there were spots that were working the combo better, but we just ignored the souths and scored the nw. Feels like October around here.

[Ottime]

What a great June weekend for swell. Pretty much well over head since Thursday, with Friday morning pushing DOH at the best breaks. Even Sunday was still OH with help from the NW.

I do recall a handful of bigger souths over the past two decades, but not many. And none in June. So stoked right now. I got some of my biggest waves of the winter on Friday.

Which got me to thinking about how it is more than just wave height that determines this. Friday was OH to DOH with a rare bigger set. Big, but not crazy huge. But combined with the long period energy running in the 18-20s range, those waves were basically freight trains an I was just a hobo trying not to lose an arm as I jumped on for a ride.

Even yesterday I got way more than expected. The NW was down to 7.9@12 when I hit it. I was expecting some tall, but not too thumping. But with all the various energy in the water the waves were hitting the reef hard. An maybe there was still some 14s component.

Anyway, the quality of the surf was astounding. My usual weak, lame point turned into a line up, thick, bowled up race track. Some local long board breaks offered 50 yard barrel sections. Good stuff. Just hoping the south PAC has not used up every thing it has got. Not quite ready for several weeks of mountain biking.

[Piggity]

Still waves, 2-4' at the beach break just now. Seems like some NW creeping in because it was fairly consistent and plenty of corners.

[jtran10]

my arms are officially dead. taking off today, maybe out tomorrow morning for an AM session if the conditions/tides look good.

[Ottime]

I strongly advise against taking the day off when there is surf out there that would look good by any other standard than following the past weekend. It will be flat and miserable soon enough. And as my dad used to say, you can sleep all you want when you are dead.

[Piggity]

It was a no brainer for my session, I'm guessing tide/wind are different now but like ottime said. I just stretched my arms and heard snap crackle pop, is that a good thing?

[jtran10]

guess I'll go try to get some combo beach break swell if I end up with the time

[icelanticskier]

bonus session at york today on the LB. was out running errands with my sweetheart and on our way back i detoured by the beach and was pleasantly surprised to see perfectly formed, perfectly glassy thigh high sets rolling in. i had thought the wind was gonna do some damage today, but the wind stayed less than 5mph all day. drove home, unloaded groceries and whatnot, grabbed my stuff, and caught a ton of waves in two hours time. peelers. so much fun. waves should tick up a enough to get back on the shortboard by wednesday.

hope the surf sticks around for you guys out there!

rog

[Ottime]

I took my advice and had so much fun with my buddy at sunset surfing lonely left and right thumping waist to head barrels. Got one of my favorite rights in a long time. Small head high thing, but just stood up, back hand bottom turn to pull up and just sit in a barrel forever, then finally pump to get out, make a top turn only to have the barrel set back up. I kind of got knocked on the foam ball and was riding with one leg off the board but recovered, came out and kicked off the wave. Fun stuff. Of course after that one I never really got another. Should have know the session was done. Then it was my buddies turn to get his game on. Then beer time.

[Long duc dong]

Like everyone else, I had a great weekend, but one session really stood out. Thursday evening, Saturday and Sunday I hit Trestles, which was awesome.

What stood out for me, was Friday afternoon. I surfed 32nd street Newport. I went down there figuring it would be more manageable, and it was, shoulder high with some lined up lefts as opposed to walled and closed out. What made the session memorable was riding a quad for the first time. I can't believe how fast they are! It took off down the line in waist to shoulder high soft waves, I really could not believe how much speed I got. It made the session a blast, even though the waves were not great. My backside bottom turns are still a work in progress on it, you can't really lean as hard, but overall i loved it.

I you have yet to try a quad fish in small waves, do it as soon as possible!

[jtran10]

quad fish the next board on my radar to pick up for smaller days this summer

[Ottime]

For this summer I will live with my short board. Hoping to purge a few boards an round up cash to replace my step up board next. After riding my 6'7" in the big stuff Friday, I have just gotten to used to how fun my new (loose) board is. I was having to work so much harder to go vertical and come off the top. The ease of the 6'0" has made me lazy. So, first, replace the step up.

Then I think I will be looking to get a 5'9"ish five fin set up for small waves. That way I can go back and forth between quad and tri.

Of course, then I will need to start looking at my mini gun. I think the 8'4" gun will be the last to go. And I might never really upgrade it. Too much money for a board I rarely use. And it is probably the best one in my quiver being a legitimate Sunset board.

Any, quads are fun, yes.

Still a little surf kicking around this morning. Gonna try to not give up on it this week as next week looks pretty micro.

[Piggity]

Then I think I will be looking to get a 5'9"ish five fin set up for small waves.

That's my exact board....5'9"x20"x2.5" Chemistry Beaker - 5 fin. One of my favorite small wave boards of all time, definitely one of the most versatile. From Knee high to well overhead and holds a line inside the barrel, which most small wave boards struggle with, for me anyway. Most of the volume is in the middle to nose of the board, provides plenty of paddle power but the tail tapers and I'm guessing that's why it can be surfed like a true shortboard in juicier waves. This is definitely the board I would have preferred at Uppers that day, the board is playful yet responsive.

[jtran10]

http://www.volcomfijipro.com/live/

kelly vs. john john just about to happen in the semifinal

[PowerWhore7]

http://www.volcomfijipro.com/live/

kelly vs. john john just about to happen in the semifinal

Final coming up...

Slater vs Fanning

[icelanticskier]

For this summer I will live with my short board. I have just gotten to used to how fun my new (loose) board is. I was having to work so much harder to go vertical and come off the top. The ease of the 6'0" has made me lazy.

Then I think I will be looking to get a 5'9"ish five fin set up for small waves. That way I can go back and forth between quad and tri.

you sound like me

rog