Just got out, going back for round 2 in a little bit.
Just got out, going back for round 2 in a little bit.
Session of my life at San O last night (though that only includes 14 months of surfing). Paddle out was LONG, like 300 yards? Maybe it wasn't that long, but it felt like it. Paddled straight to the outside so I wouldn't be caught inside one of the big sets. First set came through and I hesitated and didn't make the wave I was paddling at, mainly due to some fear. Next set came through and I was in perfect position at the peak to just angle right into a big, long left that ran all the way to the inside as the good San O waves tend to do. Had never dropped in on a face so big, surfed so fast, or been on a wave of consequence so long. Amazing. Shortboarding a lot recently helped me beat the sections, keep my balance, etc.
Paddled back out and caught another bomb on the next set. Not quite as long, but just as big. The inside was getting super bumpy with a bit of chop, but I was able to stay up and ride the wave all the way to the close out. Went back out and got one more set wave before heading in for a beer.
Decided I hadn't had enough and paddled back out for one more.
Not sure how big the sets were around sunset last night, probably 7ft or so, but they were big enough I didn't look to see how big the wave I was on was because I was using all my concentration to surf it well. Dropping in to the bigger waves reminded me a lot more of skiing since there was very much a face to be riding down on, at least on the drop.
I'll stop rambling, here's some picture from Cbad this morning (didn't go out, only saw about 4 good rides from 40 guys in 30 minutes..needed more water to support the sets) and San O last night
San O last night - not the biggest of sets or best of pictures
The best wave I saw this morning
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^Your hooked for life nowNext set came through and I was in perfect position at the peak to just angle right into a big, long left that ran all the way to the inside as the good San O waves tend to do. Had never dropped in on a face so big, surfed so fast, or been on a wave of consequence so long.
yeah, this morning in cbad was not what I was expecting. Surfed the yellow house and it was hitting every reef except that one. Managed to finally get a few waves rolling through but it wasn't connecting like it usually does. Surfed a reef just south of Cardiff last night and it was cranking, well overhead on the sets and connecting all the way to the inside. My buddies are posting photos of the wedge on FB, he said the beach was shaking last night as the sets rolled in
Was gonna post this morning at like 7am and tell you to wait til around now to head there since the tide was too low. Sorry man.
No worries, I was in the water a little after 6am
Just got back from watching the hole with my son playing atop the cliffs for two hours. If the wind holds off, I'm going back. Yes, too much wind swell for perfection, but a few select bombs lined up, as well as the small sets. Big sets looked easily DOH from 200' above.
So many folks out today along the coast. The first miles lots were about as packed as they get. Waddell Cliffs as well. Beaches looked very over powered, as did many spots. Hole ranged from 2 to 0 to 2 to 5 to 6 to 1 guy out. Lots stopping to take a look see. Busy day. No one lasted very long. I'll take those odds. Need to grab something bigger than the 6'0" for sure.
Word is town has been a complete zoo since yesterday afternoon. What is it about summer time and shitty etiquette?
one of the things i dread about overhyped hurricane season out this way. EVERYONE comes outta the woodwork. grumpy outta shape locals get in the way from being outta the water since winter/spring for the most part. quebexicans are starting to outnumber mericans, specially on weekends. mess i tell ya. glad i live where things stay pretty quiet. specially when lots of water starts moving.
rog
Round 2 was windier than morning session, long periods hitting the reef making for some ledgy drops. I'm willing to bet there's some reefs in La Jolla that are putting out some thick shacks
I forgot how scary and how fun the hole can be. Glad I've been reminded.
Meaty south + oysters and beers, plus the euro-trash stays on the beach up here. glad my county is not a surf dest, esp. having glimpsed at the SC and OC cams today.
Last edited by PedPro; 06-08-2013 at 06:49 PM.
I surfed with my buddy today. After an hour another guy showed up. Kind of knew him. Then another. Knew him. No one else. Felt quiet.
Last edited by Ottime; 06-08-2013 at 07:48 AM.
touche...gotta be a little more savy in your neck of the woods at least IME poking around N of SC. you seem to fall into that 2% (?) of the skillfull SC surf pop. that is not lazy, likes to explore and has a tolerance for sharky waters....same up here with only we deal with a much smaller base.
another big difference is from the GG north to Ore. border you are dealing with mostly public lands/access whereas down there poking round this seems not be the case, or at least feels ambiguous trudging down paths amongst the artichoke fields and such...which is probably to your benefit.
stoked for you guys!^^^^^^^
well, think i got something to work with today. just cut my 8-4 work shift down to 8-1 and may finalize that to a 8-noon. winds offshore with head high sets i'm guessing. gonna see if the bar/rock south of the restaurant will handle bigger than waist high. tomorrow looks fun too.
rog
I meant to post this yesterday but fell asleep at 7:30, ya know, super exhausted from all the shredding
First off, please excuse the horrible shots. I was on sensory overload when I got to the beach and basically was just snapping pictures without really looking at the screen, so this is what I wound up with....
Yesterday was the session of my life as well, trestles went DOH for sure with some mutant sets flexing even bigger. Lowers was the best I have ever seen, 10-12ft sets rolling through with perfect rights and lefts, middles had it’s fair share of monster waves and multiple hundred yard rides too. I definitely caught the biggest wave of my life yesterday, and surfed it almost to churches, the paddle back took me literally 15 minutes.
Managed to come out of this session unscathed, only had two scary hold downs and one awful wipeout where I got pitched on a 10ft face.
I feel like surfer today
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"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Went out last night for a quick wave before us soccer game at 630. Posted out at yellow house and caught a fun fast long left after waiting my turn for a good 20 mins. Not as big as the san o waves but great to get it on the sb. Board shorts not a good option as i got out shivering. Forgot my watch though so the lack of rubber kept me on schedule to make it to the bar to watch the game
Double session today if the arms cooperate.
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If the fog breaks,I'll get some snaps today. Only got a few from the cliff yesterday. Being 200' up is kind of tough. And framing them tight to not give away clues as to location. Even though this spot is in the wide open it is still very uncrowded when nearby you can sometimes count 100 in the water. It might be that a lot of folks only surf it once. It can offer a for real beat down.
My best wave yesterday started about 4 feet OH, standing up vertical on the reef an rifling off. I got a nice cover up through the first section and several large sweeping turns as it backed off a little bit. Then it set up on the middle shelf for a flying down then line fast wave with two tube sections. Tucked briefly into the first and for a bit longer on the second that was draining out the reef. Came out, raced around the section, made a top turn and then kicked out. Who knows how many yards. Surge for two hours and got three like that, but not quite as good. Got a handful more. Maybe 10 total. Headed back up there in a few minutes and hope the NW is not screwing it up.
Very solid swell and one of my favorite breaks.
meh sessions all around for me. Had to drop off the GF in encinitas this morning so figured I'd make use of my new park pass and head to cardiff. The rip was unbelievably strong. Really not many waves caught at all for the amount of guys that were out. It was basically just paddle south and in so you don't get taken out to sea. Kinda annoying because it was glassy still. Got a wave there, but was really just trying for 30 minutes to make it in to go somewhere else.
Checked swamis/pipes as the wind started to pick up and decided I'd just head to carlsbad. Went out at Terramar and within 20 minutes my shoulders were just dead. Caught a couple and went in.
About to go out for round two after a quick eat.
Game plan for this morning got skunked. Returned to the ole mile. Never seen it so crowded. Twenty plus along the point. Got plenty if good ones. It helps to be one of tr folks who have surfed it alone. Almost as good as it gets.
Eat and return. Unless the junk settles and other options open up.
Maybe breaking away in a few hours, chose not to dawn patrol again today so hoping to catch a few leftovers. Jtran, about 1/2 mile or so south of cardiff there is another parking lot on your right, pull in and check it sometime on a mid to high tide. I surfed suckouts at cardiff yesterday and that rip was doing the same thing, the left held up fairly good and had some good punch to it. How does the reef at the yellow house look right now? was pipes closing? Any beta will help me with this afternoons sesh. I should just head to LJ reefs to get my shack on
starting to see a lot less size south of carlsbad now that the swell is starting to back off, at least earlier this morning 8-12 window. I was just south of yellow house and the majority of waves weren't hitting the reef right and closing out pretty quickly. Guys on LBs that could be further out had some good rides, but not much for the SBers. A lot bigger there than cardiff though.
putting the LB in the car and heading back out for some more scouting. undecided if I'll get in again though, my shoulders are probably done for the day.
Holy jebus it was crowded today. Anything that was holding shape had 50+ on it at least, so we decide on a gnar session at State Park with the life guard. They let us surf in the blackballed area since the shore break was HH and no one was going near it. We managed a couple of corners and even a barrel, but for the most part it was giant walls of death.
good times....![]()
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
More good walls. Less crowd. Arms spent. Beers earned.
went out one last time at pipes. pretty lully, but caught a really great foot or two overhead left. worth the paddle out triple session.
pw - thinking of heading north tomorrow. Can be up there by 9 I think.
fog bank offshore kept just enough wind to put some bumps out there. however it was a good size, 2-3 ft overhead but shifty due to all the swells colliding. this place picks up most everything, so you come to expect a shifty lineup. Had one big drop outside. Drifted inside and paddled for a blob that came out of nowhere which turned out to be surprisingly long and lined up. A lot of water sweeping down the point and consistently large sets. buddy joined me and was not feeling it. mellow crew of mixed talent out there without a lot of bunching. There r six people out in this shitty photo:
2013-06-08 12.53.07 (1) by pedpro, on Flickr
headed into town after for a sammie and beer to watch the scenery strolling by and some creative shortboarding and soft-topping off the high tide reverb from the cliffs/wall.
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