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Thread: Anyone else get some today...?

  1. #1651
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    Dec 2009
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    god those waves look user friendly/hero. but omg the crowd shot!!!

    pretty tiny here all week. maybe sunday-tues.

    nice to be pedal'n tho.

    rog

  2. #1652
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    Aug 2006
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    windansea area got a lot of attention last year or the previous year in the media for some agro-localism stuff.

    i lived 2 blocks from big rock for several years in the mid-90's, was in the water along that stretch of sand a lot, and only saw some physical agro shit a few times. verbal stuff was more frequent. the physical violent stuff was lame and i was happy to never see it escalate to the point of injury. most entertaining would be when one local would call another one out for being a dick, and get the others to either peer pressure the dick until they got out of the water or into submission.

  3. #1653
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    Nice photos, those rights look tasty.

    Snuck out for 2 hours yesterday from 10:30-12:30pm. Sunny and fun but kinda smallish windswell. Hooked that one wave that made the session about 45 minutes in, got about 6 crisp backside turns on a belly high wave. I left my buddy a message where I was surfing at but I hadn't seen him yet, next thing I know he's paddling out yelling at me saying "You crushed that wave and those were the best vertical backside turns" he's ever seen me do on a small wave. He's probably the best surfer I know so hearing him say that holds weight with me, felt good.

  4. #1654
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    logged it in cbad this morning. First session in board shorts of the summer for me. Heading out again in a little bit I think, but probably with a wetsuit. Wish the sun would come out.

  5. #1655
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    Jun 2007
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    Sunny up here. Spent 15 minutes in the shorty at Sharks. Not chilly at all. Just went in because it was family beach time. Really nice out right now. Weak, warbled, head high-ish this morning up the coast. Had more fun with the quickie riding the foamy. Best part was my son took to the board and was playing around with it in the tidal pools. Next beach day we might try a paddle out.

  6. #1656
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    gimp central, I know...but this next swell might be my last big hurrah. It's clear that I need knee surgery, dumb me crashed skiing in December and I still can't even jog, never mind ski. Surfing is the only sport that I can kinda do while still gimpy, for now anyway. Not sure when but the reality has set in that the fun might get put on hold for a year


    on that note, thinking about paddling out later for some weak wedges to clear the mind

  7. #1657
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    Dec 2009
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    sorry to hear pigs^^^^vibes on a speedy recovery.

    still no surf to speak of here since last sunday. heard ogt had kinda blownout but fun short period waist high peaks today.hoping to get in the water tomorrow ogt for a bit. could be waist/stomach and a bit cleaner. one can only hope. then micro till next weekend.

    rog

  8. #1658
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    Thanks man. I'm sure ill bitch about again sometime later. Just giving a heads up on why I might be amped up about these waves lately, better than sulking

  9. #1659
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    Do it pigs. Surf this swell, which really does look like it should be a good one and then go under the knife. Best time of year for it. You may recover/heal faster than expected and just might be able to get a few turns and big surf come winter. And besides, it has been a while since we had an epic summer around here. We could really use a sacrificial pig.

  10. #1660
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    Pig-man WTF!!!!! That sucks dude, hope you heal up quick but you should listen to Ottime and surf this swell.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    We could really use a sacrificial pig.
    Then again Ottime does has a point ....HA-ha
    "In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."

  11. #1661
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    I get it, I'm the sacrificial pig! Wait, aren't they usually oblivious to the sacrifice? Dammit, we messed this thing all up

  12. #1662
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    sucks about the surgery pig. ++vibes

    Got out yesterday in the chop for a little bit. Nothing really happening, so went in. Drive by this morning things still looked choppy and mixed up. I think it's rest up time for the next swell at this point.

  13. #1663
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    Jun 2004
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    Fun sessions this weekend in Newport, despite not much swell.

    It was waist to shoulder high, which can actually be really fun with the right shape.

    Friday evening at 56th from 4-615 ended up being great. It looked pretty bumpy, and I had to convince myself to paddle out, but it ended up being fun. Soft chest high bumpy lefts, which would line up and race along the inside. With only one other guy out we pretty much got our share of waves.

    Saturday and Sunday it was 9-11 am sessions. Less wind, but more crowded by quite a bit. I surfed around 61st both days, and managed to pick off some corners.

    I actually like Newport when it is small. Fun, zippy, and plenty of waves coming through. When it gets big it can be pretty thumpy, and I would rather surf Trestles or HB.

    Oh, I trunked it all three days. The water is around 70, which makes the waves a bit better.

    Piggity, heal up.

    It looks like some swell for next weekend. Hopefully I can score Thursday and Friday evening sessions.

    As to the earlier conversation about dickheads....They are present in all walks of life, and any time you get limited resources the asshole in people comes out. It try to avoid 54th street because of the attitude, unless it is so bad that it's the only place worth paddling out. Most of the places I surf, 56-61 in Newport, Cottons/Uppers down south, are a bit mellow, even with a crowd. I avoid Lowers because of the crowd factor. I'm a mediocre surfer, but I'm polite so I don't tend to have big problems.

    Silver Strand did have some assault convictions about a decade ago. We used to go down from SB and surf Ventura, and sometimes Malibu, but we avoided Oxnard because of the localism. In a sense it worked, as the perceived localism kept us away. I don't know how bad it is now, but my guess is there are still plenty of vibes in the water, if not actual fights. I have never surfed Palos Verdes either, although I would love to surf Haggerty's.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  14. #1664
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    Pretty sure Haggerty's does not have any serious vibe. It is basically a long, mellow, LB wave. The cove OTOH is a bit protected.

  15. #1665
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Pretty sure Haggerty's does not have any serious vibe. It is basically a long, mellow, LB wave. The cove OTOH is a bit protected.
    OTTIME- Clear your PM's.

  16. #1666
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    Cleared.

  17. #1667
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    nothing here, still. can't remember the last time i went over a week without being in the water........

    glad u guys are gettin some!

    rog

  18. #1668
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    Apr 2006
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    Love those pictures of the hook. Was down there at the beaches this weekend trying to get the paddling muscles back. Had a great time even though the waves weren't that good. I wish I didn't live so far away .

  19. #1669
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    Thanks man. I was down their this Saturday with the family. Even hit out to Sharks with the foamy for 10 minutes and snagged like 7 waves. One that even actually peeled into the cove. It kind of looked fun at the hook on the occasional wave. Saw one short boarder rip one up. And my son played with the surfboard in the tide pool. So stoked on that.

    And while I'm talking about it, rog, yes that crowd is insane. Of course I took that at the opportune time when it got flooded with people. And that is looking up toward 38th. More of a slow, rambling long hoard wave. Kind of made it easier to be not in the water.

    Just out from my favorite north coast slab. Mostly sloppy head high wind swell with the occasional good wave ripping across the reef. So much sand right now. If it cleans up it is all primed for mid period (10-13s) swell. Kin of sweet for summer.

    Looks like we are going to get crossed up with a NW ground swell. for the weekend. Kind of blows. Wish that would come when the south PAcific goes quite.

  20. #1670
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    Dec 2009
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    today was fucking badass! between 2.4 to 3 feet @ 7 secondswith a fabulous angle, moderate offshores, sun, water cold as fuck for june (51 degrees) and no one else out cept my buddy tom.

    yup stole my gf's 8'2 once again. tom told me i coulda ridden my shortboard no prob, but i told him it was my day off, why work? knee with thigh sets and perfectly formed for nice long rights that held up all the way till yer fin dug dirt. got the toes to the nose and mini over the shoulder/back of head lip covers from taking off just behind the peak and stalling her just right.

    pretty damn fun. surfed from 7-9am then back to the house for coffee, then surfed again at the same spot from 11-12:30pm. nice to have the little gem south of the restaurant back to the form of last late summer/fall. perfect a-frame lefts/rights. gonna be a fun summer

    rog

  21. #1671
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    Good to see you have learned to play around on the LB. Sometimes they are more fun, especially when it is less than waist high. What I really like about them is you actually need to consider much more rail while surfing, so when you do go back to the short board it seems so easy to manipulate.

    Might take today off. Will need to see what the wind does and what the wife is thinking when she gets home. I'm gonna miss the first solid day of the coming swell due to her work schedule unless I sneak a pre-work, dawn mission requiring me to be back at the house not much later than 6AM. Not so sure about cutting things that close. I'll be waiting to see what you SoCal folks see early afternoon Wednesday down in your parts. If the fore runners start to show I'll go chase down some 2'@26s for a sunset session. That should be about head high and moving fast as hell. Right now winds look like south on Friday and even light on Saturday. Very good indeed. Too bad we will be getting some mid period NW at the same time. I think that may shut down doggy rock. The break I am hoping to get is actually called black hole. It is a shallow kelp-y shelf with a deep trench just outside that can literally create a black hole as it barrels. I've had the biggest shacks of my life there when it is on, which is about once every three or four years. FP could also go off with this swell, and I think it is less fucked by the NW.

  22. #1672
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    this S swell later in the week is getting really big. 8+ on some sets in north county on Friday. Looks like the reefs will be packed.

  23. #1673
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Good to see you have learned to play around on the LB.
    of the 25+ years i've been surfing, i rode nothing but 9' or longer boards exclusively for 15 of those years in all conditions from ankle-huge. old hat, like riding a bike.

    will be VERY nice to get back on the shorty this weekend. swell willing.

    rog

  24. #1674
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    15 years in an exclusive relationship? Well, that would explain an aversion.

    Cleared brush yesterday in lieu of chasing down a 4@10. Gonna wait for this south. Post up if you southerners see anything showing.

  25. #1675
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    Hello? Swell...where u @?

    Sitting here waiting for the swell, super rested, healed up from the last run of swell and all my housework is FKNA done son.

    Nothing here yet, just a heavy marine layer and some dinky doodle waves lapping the shore. Anything in SD yet?
    "In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."

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