Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

Surfing and skiing are the two things in my life that bring me true peace & happiness so I try not to break that zen for anything or anyone, but I am from NJ and think I am 6’5” 250lbs (really 5’ 7” 155) so if necessary I will bite your ankles until you you fall down.

I have nothing else to add....


J, which peak were you on? I wouldn't normally say something. Unless, I called him off or I had been making that section on previous waves. I might say something if it's a close call and collision potential. Often it comes down to a judgement call whether an unknown surfer can make the section or not, the other surfer has to assess someone else's ability to make the wave.


Meeting a buddy for a surf now, 9 days straight and still a few waves left over.

[Ottime]

That kind of is my take pigs. And the big problem with surfing in crowds. When I'm surfing with six or fewer like minded surfers, I'll often tell someone down the line to go I I feel I am late/behind. No point in racing behind the good section of the wave when someone else has an opportunity to rip the face. OTOH, when the numbers begin to increase, and you show any sign of weakness (say, like kindness toward your fellow man) and the Dbags will be all over you like file to shit.

That day at Uppers, while you were on the left I got 3 or 4 good waves in a row. While paddling back up the point another nice peak came right to me. I noticed the three dudes I just paddled past could get in position so I waved it off and told them to go. Two went for it. The third then started to paddle all over me. I guess he thought I sucked because I was not greedy. Didn't matter much. I pulled out my EC style and pushed him deeper and deeper. Then I went for some lefts. When I returned to the right I was given plenty of space.


Crowd surfing on the New England can be fun. Four times as aggressive as SoCal with 1/4 the skill. Sure, so guys rip, but I ain't like the OC. But most guys are like the Beckies in summer. New board, new suit, new to the sport.


Did I tell you guys how awesome yesterday was?

[Piggity]

I agree with ottime about kindness with bigger packs, it does seem to give others incentive to take advantage of the niceness. Then they get all pissed if you take all the waves, kinda weird like that.

Couple fun peak rolling through still. Obviously I made an unconscious decision to change up my style and blow the first 3 waves. Luckily I made a recovery toward the end of the session, just one of those days.

highlight of the day was seeing a wheelchair down on the beach and his kayak next to him. He yells my buddies name and they start chatting, guess they are good friends from college. My buddy says he saw the mountain he climbed, so I asked which mountain. He said one near mammoth, had a hunch so I ask if he was referring to Bloody Couloir. Sure enough, he was. Jeremy's getting after it both in the mountains and in the water, cool guy. Not sure but sounds like the movie is being shown at a release party at Paloma in encinitas later this summer

[jtran10]

p, was at the yellow house.

I like the zen aspect of surfing, and agree that saying something kinda ruins that a bit. In many lineups I don't feel I have the skill to back up talking anyways, but the guy yesterday just really annoyed me. Paddled out with a new chick that didn't catch or paddle into any ways, so probably just showing off when he could right in front of her. Oh well.

[Ottime]

^^^^You can always paddle out on a beater and accidentally run over him as he drops in on ya.


Seriously, I just try to have fun with assholes. When I first moved from NYC to SC, my sarcasm was at an all time high. After some altercation at the Lane, I was told to, "wake the fuck up!" My response, in a very sincere and mild voice, "Sorry, dude. I took some Valium before I paddled out. I'll drink some coffee as soon as I get in. Sorry." His response, "Yeah, that's cool." Totally disarmed him. Don't think he knew how to fight someone who isn't going to fight back. I paddle right back out to the peak and finished my session.

I generally play by the rule of get mine and not someone elses. I try to give waves to beginners in the water. I let people drop in on me if the wave is too far ahead/no well lined up/ mellow/ my 30th of the day/ etc. I do like to get my fair share of good waves. When I'm not in a crowd, I tend to go for everything except on those days when there is a real difference between the good ones and not as good ones. I try to take turns when surfing with others. If you want to give me all the better ones, that is fine with me, but you need to get some or you will get butt hurt. When I am surfing with someone stronger than me, I like a little friendly competition. So on and so on.

Inspiring folks on the beach or in the hills is always awesome.

Fuck. I need to go move another pallet of landscaping block. Later.

[PowerWhore7]

Interesting pack mentality talk, I also have noticed that if I paddle for and miss a wave - the next set, people are all over me trying to muscle me around. I have found catering to peoples ego with a hoot or a “right on dude, nice wave” goes a long way. Especially being on a LB half the time, I catch a lot of shit in the water at certain spots but at others we all seem to work together. Weird dynamic in SoCal, I was teenager when I surfed the Jerzy shore so I really can’t relate it to anything out here or use my people skills from the 90’s (punch first & hard).

By the way, the surf refuses to stop in OC. I have surfed 12 out of the last 14 days and it’s been HH or better the whole fucking time. I am so sun burnt and beat to shit but have a smile ear to ear...




Oh yeah, I became one of them today

24ft of styrofoam & fiberglass

Meadow the dog- “you better not take that fucker out in the line-up"

[Piggity]

whoa PW


Yellow house is what I was thinking, happened to me the first few sessions out there. My buddy from Transworld surfs there all the time, he said there's a bunch of surf industry guys that live in that neighborhood overlooking the break and they pretty much run the lineup when it's pumping. There's one older guy in good shape with a bright wetsuit that surfs exceptional (Mid 50's and throws down on a shortboard like he's mid 30's), he seems to be very well connected in the industry, pretty sure Rusty dropped off a truck load of boards for him to try out a few weeks back. Another time overheard a bunch of them talking and they are tight with all the pros in the area like Machado, Taylor Knox and all the Trestles/OC crew. I can't figure out exactly who is who yet but it's probably better to cozy up to them than anything else. Thats how I played it and they were all really cool to chat with.


Is black part of the rainbow?

[Ottime]

Oh yeah, I became one of them today

24ft of styrofoam & fiberglass

Meadow the dog- “you better not take that fucker out in the line-up"

I'm not sure what my response is. Either something about SUP-SKI being so hot right now, or, something about how I did not know your wife was a guy (that is cool and all, just did not know). How much did the set set you back? You should put in at San O and paddle up toward Lowers on a smaller day and watch every one in the line up get all pinched.

My honest advice for dealing with Dbags in the water is avoid them at all cost. If someone yells at me, I try to deflate them. It is rare that I get yelled at. On a shortboard, decent skill set, mellow, and try to to take too many waves. I usually surf at spots that have fewer folks out. Two summer spots I hit can get pretty competitive, but since they are near the county line, no one (or one group) really owns the spot. Ability to take off in the pit it what rules. I try to work the arena and surf were folks are not sitting. If everyone is out on the peak, I work the inside. Or vice versa. Hell, I like working the inside, and then getting out when the good sets come, and watching everyone paddle for the first few waves, get out of position, and then have it bowl right up on me. My usual fall spot is dominated by a group of 15 or so regulars. Rarely are more than 6 out at a time, but when the pack gets to 12, we still mostly know each other and follow Gentlemen's Rule. And it is one of the best slabs around. Winter things tend to spread out just due to the amount of swell. And when I surf in town, I play by town rules, which are not very nice, but will get you waves.

On another note, comments I have heard in the water recently about wetsuits. I basically goes like this:

Ever notice that everyone who wears a ________ is ________.

Brands: Buell, Matuse, Hotline, Rip Curl, O'neil, Patagonia

Comment: thinks they are a fucking local, is just another valley fag, is a douchebag, drives a Prius, is rich urbanite wannabee kook, squid lid wearing fucker


Try to match them up. Actual comments may have been formulated differently. The actual wording above was my buddies over beers after his kite session.


Swell up here is backing off. Last night was fun, but the worse session of the past 8. Got a ton of waves, and they were fun enough, but paled in comparison to Monday and my previous days. Chest/head at the no smiles. Started with two guys out, and I thought that was perfect. So did 8 more or so. I played on the outside bowl mostly. It was bigger, but less well formed. Then I played on the inside, which was well shaped, but smaller and weaker. Every once in a while I picked one off from the pack that was offering a shoulder high barrel and chest high wall. Unless the winds glasses off today, I think I'm done until the weekend. Speaking of which, it could be 80F here on Saturday. Good stuff.

[Piggity]

Small but rideable in central SD, today is a recovery day after 10 days straight of fun waves. My knees, shoulders, back, and neck are toast right now.

I don't want to get too hyped up but each SW Pac model run today has been getting better and better. The 42hr forecast now not only has a new 'white' band of 46-50' seas but there is now a yellow band indicating possibility of 50-52' seas. I'll believe it when it happens but the models are upgrading the storm for some reason

[Ottime]

^^^^I take that as a positive sign, but assume a strong storm, not a super storm. Model runs sometimes "hype up" when everything is looking positive. Often they go a bit too far. Anything over 10m will certainly be fun, especially when we are in the direct unshadowed path.

[PowerWhore7]

How much did the set set you back?

$1000 with the paddles. The wife does not really like surfing but really likes to be on the ocean so I figured this would be a good way to have fun, keep my wife happy, stay married and unemployed. You know - the old 4 birds with one stone trick....

Thanks for the advice on d-bags, I don’t really let it bother me much. But as you know, the EC comes out some times and I just want to war.


Here are some shots my buddy took with his Iphone the other day at State Park in San Clemente.

[icelanticskier]

My honest advice for dealing with Dbags in the water is avoid them at all cost. If someone yells at me, I try to deflate them. It is rare that I get yelled at. On a shortboard, decent skill set, mellow, and try to to take too many waves. I usually surf at spots that have fewer folks out. Two summer spots I hit can get pretty competitive, but since they are near the county line, no one (or one group) really owns the spot. Ability to take off in the pit it what rules. I try to work the arena and surf were folks are not sitting. If everyone is out on the peak, I work the inside. Or vice versa. Hell, I like working the inside, and then getting out when the good sets come, and watching everyone paddle for the first few waves, get out of position, and then have it bowl right up on me. My usual fall spot is dominated by a group of 15 or so regulars. Rarely are more than 6 out at a time, but when the pack gets to 12, we still mostly know each other and follow Gentlemen's Rule. And it is one of the best slabs around. Winter things tend to spread out just due to the amount of swell. And when I surf in town, I play by town rules, which are not very nice, but will get you waves.

On another note, comments I have heard in the water recently about wetsuits. I basically goes like this:

Ever notice that everyone who wears a ________ is ________.

Brands: Buell, Matuse, Hotline, Rip Curl, O'neil, Patagonia

Comment: thinks they are a fucking local, is just another valley fag, is a douchebag, drives a Prius, is rich urbanite wannabee kook, squid lid wearing fucker


Try to match them up. Actual comments may have been formulated differently. The actual wording above was my buddies over beers after his kite session.

WOW. cali sounds retarded.......

rog

[Ottime]

What part? It is not really all that different than back east except the surfer are a bit better skilled on average and the insults are a bit less creative on average.

[icelanticskier]

What part? It is not really all that different than back east except the surfer are a bit better skilled on average and the insults are a bit less creative on average.

i didn't mean "retarded" in a vicious or angry way, btw. just seems really edgy with a ton of tude. guess that happens with crowding. i see it at rye rocks. even there tho it's just a quick bark, but no real shit slinging. unless a SUP shows up. a bit better skilled on average? you are being kind

rog

[Ottime]

No worries on calling this state special needs. Even after living in this town for 18 years and using phrases like "no worries" I still consider my self a New York with a little Maniac twist.

The most aggressive crowd I surfed was Pt Judith on a yet to arrive 'cane swell about ten years ago. A good 100 folks stretched out along the west side of the point and pretty much everyone paddled for every waves. My buddy stayed out of the mix and found a nice inside section to share with one other. I noticed almost every wave was being missed and set up near the top at a spot where the wave looked like it would bowl up deep only to shift down the line. When a set started to roll in I'd slowly paddle deeper toward the non bowl and the 30 or so guys closest to me would suddenly go into full speed spazzy paddle mode to beat me there. I'd stop paddling an then as everyone passed me, I'd make five strong strokes down the line and pick up the wave where it was peaking. Again, and again, and again as about 5 or 6 guys all dropped in well behind be only to have the section close out on them. Classic New England line up.

As for insults, they really have nothing on anyone who grew up any where near Bean Town. Those guys really know how to sling arrows. Around here is more like soft balls. But they back it up with actually catching and ripping waves.

But it is true about crowds. They really screw the while thing up. Tis why I usually avoid them. I can hang with 10 on a point and 6 on a peak. Much more than that and things start to get stressful.

And seriously no offense. I'll see you this summer. Along with most if Quebec.

[Piggity]

^Wasn't there a well known but well localized beach in Ventura that was one of the last to go in the erosion of localism in Socal? I think the SS guy was being prosecuted for assault, or something like that, and it seemed to throw a chill on beat downs after that. I also think the constant video's and camera's on the beaches also means more guys can get prosecuted, and they know it.

a bit better skilled on average? you are being kind

He's not too far off, we have our share of beginners as well. Don't believe? How about the group of 5 guys I saw yesterday on the beach. I'm assuming 1 was the ring leader and he let the 4 others borrow his boards to try surfing. How do you repay the guy for letting him borrow a board?


Ya slam his board down onto the sand/rocks then plop your ass down on the deck, as you smash his fins into the beach with your fat ass. That's how to repay your buddy for teaching you to surf. Both guys kept their leashes on as they dug holes in the sand while their other buddies got pounded in 1-2' whitewater.




Or I could talk about the guy the other day that was driving his BMW around with the deck of his surfboard baking in the hot sunny day. I'm sure he loved to see the melted wax on his roof when he got home.

[icelanticskier]

No worries on calling this state special needs. Even after living in this town for 18 years and using phrases like "no worries" I still consider my self a New York with a little Maniac twist.

The most aggressive crowd I surfed was Pt Judith on a yet to arrive 'cane swell about ten years ago. A good 100 folks stretched out along the west side of the point and pretty much everyone paddled for every waves. My buddy stayed out of the mix and found a nice inside section to share with one other. I noticed almost every wave was being missed and set up near the top at a spot where the wave looked like it would bowl up deep only to shift down the line. When a set started to roll in I'd slowly paddle deeper toward the non bowl and the 30 or so guys closest to me would suddenly go into full speed spazzy paddle mode to beat me there. I'd stop paddling an then as everyone passed me, I'd make five strong strokes down the line and pick up the wave where it was peaking. Again, and again, and again as about 5 or 6 guys all dropped in well behind be only to have the section close out on them. Classic New England line up.

As for insults, they really have nothing on anyone who grew up any where near Bean Town. Those guys really know how to sling arrows. Around here is more like soft balls. But they back it up with actually catching and ripping waves.

But it is true about crowds. They really screw the while thing up. Tis why I usually avoid them. I can hang with 10 on a point and 6 on a peak. Much more than that and things start to get stressful.

And seriously no offense. I'll see you this summer. Along with most if Quebec.

good deal

i grew up surfing the cape and that's where i witnessed (and sometimes got caught up in) the bullshit. lots of ole grumpy cagey folk out there. when they ain't bangin nails, their surfing, when not doing either of those, they are drinking, heavily. especially those that don't leave for warmer places come december. fortunately for me i was so young that they didn't bother me as i was one of the groms and as i aged they'd seen me for so long that they were kind and didn't wax my car or shoot the potatoe launcher (directly) at me from the bluff while i was out in the lineup. i def did have physical and non phisycal altercations tho. surfed rhody a bunch but always went down expecting the worst so not so bad. chill here tho. man o man. actually had a nice sesh with a nice quebexican couple last week. kept them at a peaks distance, but had some nice back and forth. the girl was smokin hot as many of them are. no complaints there

no offense taken. see you soon!

rog

[ofset]

$1000 with the paddles. The wife does not really like surfing but really likes to be on the ocean so I figured this would be a good way to have fun, keep my wife happy, stay married and unemployed. You know - the old 4 birds with one stone trick....

Thanks for the advice on d-bags, I don’t really let it bother me much. But as you know, the EC comes out some times and I just want to war.


Here are some shots my buddy took with his Iphone the other day at State Park in San Clemente.

Hell yea Pwhore!! good times out in the water. Glad you guys dig the pics. Lets do it again soon. My camera trigger finger is itching to get out there again!

Pics by: ofset

[Ottime]

^^^that is kind of what I recall. Some sort of prosecution 10 plus years ago.

SC is all in all pretty mellow. Every once in a while you meet a tweaker or some sad sad old man or some home schooled ripper who was never taught to socialize. But for the most part the line ups here are mellow. I think the crowd factor is more of a confusion thing than assholery.

Hook was pretty empty today other than one LB and many buoys on foamies. Actually started to look like a fun LB wave at about thigh to waist, glassy and lined up as we left the beach at 12:30. Super nice weather on tap and it is only gonna get better through Saturday.

[PedPro]

I never say anything, but I don't mind when others do.

Once a spot gets a reputation for being localized (deadmans) then it's as if certain people take pride in upholding it. whatever works yano? If it takes people being dicks to take the pressure off a break, then I will tolerate dickheads and reap the rewards of their mean vibes. It's all about working the SAG, just like farming inside waves, hiking or boating to remote waves, sitting wide for sleeper sets, or hitting up spots at unfavorable tides/swells and waiting around for the odd nugget.

I'm an equal opportunity scavenger...seems the most heavily localized waves are ripe for scavenging, especially when the red-wetsuit-wearing guys fall after trying a reverse and you're right there to pick it up...

[Piggity]

Yeah, the 10 years ago one. I hear a lot of barking down here but most times no biting. I usually migrate towards the less crowded peaks so thankfully I often miss the drama queens in action.

[Ottime]

Next week is supposed to be foggy with south flow. Not sure how long that will last. Fore runners start showing on Wednesday if all goes as forecast. From solspot:
The result is going to be a long duration of fetch which looks like it will produce 24 to 25 second forerunners that should start arriving on Wednesday the 5th. We could see deepwater swell heights boosting up to around 4 to 6 feet, which is pretty impressive given the long periods

So, light south flow and, say 5'@24s make a certain rock act like it is some third world cold water reef pass. Is it okay to be hopeful?

[jtran10]

got out at tamarack tonight, wind swell 4@9 on the buoy. Lots of fun but short waves. Paddled out just south of tamarack the couple previous days and didn't surf as well, so it was good to have a good session again today. Got a bunch of rights, and worked on squaring my shoulders. Such a helpful tip ott or rog (forget who gave that one).

I def. enjoy the frequency of wind swell waves, but the ease of paddling through longer period swell is nice.

[Piggity]

Was just reading solspot myself, I liked this part of the forecast.

The end result of this storm and its track will be a LARGE long-period S-SSW swell (190-210) that will arrive with long-period forerunners in the 22-24 second ranges on June 5 and then peak June 6-8 when the more fleshed out portion of the swell hits (with the 17-19 second energy). Conservatively it looks like this storm will be good for 4-6’ of deepwater energy, which will push the average exposed spots in the shoulder-overhead range with some sets going a couple of feet overhead at times. The standout SSW facing breaks will see consistent surf in the shoulder-high to a few feet overhead range with some bomb sets getting close to double overhead. A few of the top deepwater spots will have some bigger waves mixing in as this swell hits its peak…so expect a lot of water moving around once the main portion of swell energy arrives.

[Ottime]

Put up a blog post (with words even) here. All picks from the Hook. A shit ton of them. A few are good. A few are from the big days of that last swell. Here is a sampling:

Light traffic day


Moderate traffic day.


Long period day.


Boost-able day


Summertime day


Rip-able day



Deceivingly empty looking day