Anyone else get some today...?

[Long duc dong]

Fun evening session yesterday at 54th in Newport. I decided at work that I was going to go that evening, wind be damned. I knew it was shoulder high, so I figured I would roll the dice and see if it glassed off.

I surfed from 615 to 800, and it definitely go smoother, even though it didn't glass off completely. Fun, shifty little peaks, although not really much to do. Most closed out, so the trick was to hunt for the open ones, but take off on everything and hope it worked out. It ended up being much more fun than I thought, and reaffirmed that sometimes you just have to paddle out and roll the dice. Not many people out, only 6-8 between 52 and 56 which is small for Newport. It does not look like much surf for this weekend, so I needed a session. This morning is probably fun right now, I wish I could ditch my cube for a surf, but that ain't happenin'.

I should add that I literally cannot surf on my backhand right now. I have been going left all spring, and I am flailing on rights.

[Piggity]

^^ I assume all those colors mean fun for us? ^^

Not really sure how to interpret that chart but it was super clean and HH at State Park yesterday, I am hoping for more of the same today. This time I will bring the camera...

Nothing epic, just some extra fun to add to the mix of south swells and cross things up. The tropical system has a nice northward trajectory at about 115W, which is good. Inconceivable but let's pray it's pushing 120mph winds when it does Early season = cold water, so it's highly unlikely to get big. I'm actually worried about the weather it might send us on the backend, could mess up our weather more than anything. That NW groundswell is relatively small and will fare better for Ottime than us, but we can dream


Paddling out behind a kelp bed within the hour, report back later.

[Ottime]

Guess folks heard about how nicely the wind swell filled in on Monday, 'cause Tuesday evening had way more folks out on it. Swell was a bit bigger, but a bit more warbled and shorter period. Kind of liked the stomach high grinders better than the head high rollers. Still, got a few fun ones and would say my best wave last night was better than any I got Monday. About head high, hard to get into, but when I pushed over the edge and jumped up, the thing just started to peel, line up, stand up and bowl for at least four high speed turns. Gonna try to make a go of it tonight, as this is my likely last window until next Tuesday or Wednesday. Wind swell was up to 7.3@10 at one point this morning.

long duc, come up and visit. I get almost nothing but rights, unless the wind goes slack (which is not common). And it looks like you guys should be seeing some good south by Saturday afternoon. Could be a very good weekend.

Not really looking at the details of the Aleutian storm, but it looks to be in pretty good shape to send some small swell down to you guys. Lots of cross up in the water.

Our wind swell is to drop a little, then hold, building back up next work week. It will be interesting seeing how that all shapes up with the S.

[icelanticskier]

hey gang

what a winter/spring we've been having here right coast way. the run we're in right now is up to about one full month of waist high or better surf every day now. clean pretty much every day too, which is nice. my arms/back/shoulders are way beyond cooked at this point with many of the last 30 days being double sesh days. i awoke this morning hoping for a flat spell. opened my eyes at 5 and checked the buoy. thank god it can't be even thigh high. checked again at 6, fuck, it bumped up another foot at 11 seconds with the perfect angle to turn ogt into thick speedy chest high surf. showed up and had one of the best sessions all month and not another soul to share it with. insanity.

tomorrow looks to be, yup, chest/shoulder + with perfect offshores, then more surf into the weekend. haven't read any pages back, but will catch up and see what y'all been up to.

the 5'10 mini driver has been an amazing partner through all these months. never a wrong wave from knee to ohead. loves it all. enjoying it quad most.

enjoy!!!

rog

[PowerWhore7]

Fun was had today....

(courtesy of da wife)

Most closed out, so the trick was to hunt for the open ones, but take off on everything and hope it worked out. It ended up being much more fun than I thought, and reaffirmed that sometimes you just have to paddle out and roll the dice.

^^ this ^^ pretty much sums up my whole surf strategy.

[icelanticskier]

^^^^^^corners. this am was all about grabbing corner. what would look like a one turn wonder corner would open up to a 100 yard ripper. anything longer than a corner was a 2 pump chump followed by closeoutville. love the hunt

rog

[Piggity]

NW windswell today, 2-3' with occasional + at top breaks. Paddled out for 45 minutes and caught a few fun ones, kinda backed off and not much push but pretty empty so it was fun.

Tropical Storm Alvin officially kicks off EPAC hurricane season, forecast to max out around 75 knots at about 114W, pretty good for Socal. Small storm but might add a little mix to the combo. Get the shoulders ready, waves.

[jtran10]

heading up to san o with my cousin this evening after work for a LB session. Haven't surfed there yet, looking forward to it.

Got out both of the past 2 days as well. Tuesday evening was glassy, about waist high, and not super crowded. Caught 2 of my best lefts on the shortboard, and some other not so great ones. Yesterday I only had about 40 minutes until the GF was going to get mad at me, so just stayed closer to home and surfed some beach break closeouts. A couple of them had enough open face to work on making a couple turns, but closed out pretty quickly. Just trying to keep the arms in shape.

[Ottime]

Another decent night on the point of choice this week. Crowd was thinner than Tuesday night, although the buoys had bumped up a bit. Can never figure out what motivates folks to get out and get wet. Sure, everyone flocks to well advertised swells. I am sure the lineups will be chock full with this south coming in. Not super disappointed that I will miss the first wave, as much as I like those 20 sec period freight trains. Winds are going to stay fairly strong up here through at least Tuesday, meaning it will be even more crowded at the wind protected breaks.

Anyway, another evening of chest to head (maybe a few plus waves). Snagged a few good ones, and think my best last night was the best of the three days. Man, it is fun when that wave lines up correctly. Made a mistake on a insider. Instead of making a speed turn down the line on what was a soft waist high wave I slashed the top and then pumped for the section that was lining up only to see I did not have quite enough speed to get under and into the section that fired off a chest high barrel. If only I had not tried to throw so much water it would have been a fine little shack.

Okay, not really a shack, but for such a small wave, it sure was throwing. Speaking of shacks, that choops footage is pretty sick.

Taking a few ays off. Guess I will get the camera out.

[icelanticskier]

as predicted, mostly. the chest/shoulder also included solid head high sets at the ogt this am. clean, pefect. loving how that place works and the patterns in which most of the surfers that flock there go about timing the low tide

i mean it's proven that many/most maine surfers sleep in and will wait till the last possible second to get after it. often that means getting on it once the wind has beat them to it, or the swell has dropped. if this were nh there'd be folks surfing with fucking headlamps in the middle of the night before 1st light. loving maine. if the best window for ogt is a coupla hours either side of low, they don't show up till dead low which leaves the best window, imo, the 2 hours of outgoing which stands the waves up much better and allows for much easier paddleouts. the last 2 mornings were empty at 8am and perfect with low around 10. leaving this morning at dead low, it was car after car loaded with boards just showing up with the buoy dropping and winds starting to crank. love that

can't wait for morning. hopefully my ogt theory will once again proven.

rog

[Ottime]

I don't doubt it. Back when I was living in Wells, the river mouth usually sucked on the out going tide with too much current through the wave. Just horrible. Occasionally the bars would set up to shift the current north, off the point, and it would be good on the out going. Due to this, it was rarely surfed on outgoing. I can recall a hand full I days when it was just me and my buds. The best was actually at mid tide going out with ten foot walls and strong off shores. It was the best I have ever seen it. Just two of us. Until the tide turned and a good 30 people paddled out.

Anyway, I'll be at a house on Rt 1 a few blocks from the Levitt from July 19-26 if you want to meet for a surf or beer. As of right now I will be board less and suit less, but I am working on gettin my hands on something. Family trip. Then I'll be up in Wells until the 31st. Not a great time for waves but I can always hope.

[icelanticskier]

I don't doubt it. Back when I was living in Wells, the river mouth usually sucked on the out going tide with too much current through the wave. Just horrible. Occasionally the bars would set up to shift the current north, off the point, and it would be good on the out going. Due to this, it was rarely surfed on outgoing. I can recall a hand full I days when it was just me and my buds. The best was actually at mid tide going out with ten foot walls and strong off shores. It was the best I have ever seen it. Just two of us. Until the tide turned and a good 30 people paddled out.

sounds great! ya, the outgoing is a pretty mellow outcurrent imo. then again i've been surfing that beautifully formed bar on the north side of the river lately. pefect. i don't like to work too hard for waves, so if i feel the outgoing is totally mellow then it can't be too bad

Anyway, I'll be at a house on Rt 1 a few blocks from the Levitt from July 19-26 if you want to meet for a surf or beer. As of right now I will be board less and suit less, but I am working on gettin my hands on something. Family trip. Then I'll be up in Wells until the 31st. Not a great time for waves but I can always hope.

i should def be around. i can hook ya with a suit ( i'm 6' 165lb) and more than likely a board. hopefully there will be waves for yer visit. always beer!!!

rog

[Piggity]

Long range forecasts has an epic hurricane swell filling into the East Coast on July 18th and slow fading on July 27th, ya heard it here first.

[icelanticskier]

Long range forecasts has an epic hurricane swell filling into the East Coast on July 18th and slow fading on July 27th, ya heard it here first.

meh, like we need anymore swell

fucking dream we been living over here. damn cams had me almost leave work early today. if i thought tomorrow morning wouldn't be any good, i'da been in the ocean an hour and a half ago.

CAN'T WAIT FOR MORNING!!!

rog

[Ottime]

sounds great! ya, the outgoing is a pretty mellow outcurrent imo. then again i've been surfing that beautifully formed bar on the north side of the river lately. pefect. i don't like to work too hard for waves, so if i feel the outgoing is totally mellow then it can't be too bad

i should def be around. i can hook ya with a suit ( i'm 6' 165lb) and more than likely a board. hopefully there will be waves for yer visit. always beer!!!

rog

Sweet. I might have a few other options, but I'll keep that in mind. I'd pull your suit in the wrong direction (5'9",185#). But I bet you'd have the best short board around. My buddies tend to use old guy boards until it gets head high, so their "daily drivers" need some water moving. I'm not countin on head high. I'd even paddle out on a long board if it is tiny. Gonna be at the beach for a week. Hard not to get in the water.

As for the current, it could depend on a lot of things. It is tidal, so the capacity of the river and estuary could change over time. It is also a river, so water flow could be an issue after rain. I just remember a weird boat wake sort of thing that would form, and travel back up the line at you. The days I surfed it on outgoing tended to be bigger, and on the north bank. Another thing to consider is how the water flows in/out with the tide. When I was looking at the beach at low tide this past summer, it looked significantly different than I had recalled. Way less sand. Glad your getting it good, and quite. It will probably be a zoo come summer.

Long range forecasts has an epic hurricane swell filling into the East Coast on July 18th and slow fading on July 27th, ya heard it here first.

Honestly, I've had some of my most fun waves ever at rivermouth on hurricane swells. It takes a south, and builds it, which is surprising it is tuck on the north side of a wide headland. But you could imagine a wave that starts at some rocks and peel on a bit of reef, then sets up on a long right hand sand point, that is actually the south bank of a narrow tidal river, and with some luck, you can connect it through the deep spot and onto the north bank that tends to be a bit smaller, but a bit faster and through way further out. Nothing hairy, just super fun fast rights. And a 'cainne throws out just about the right period. Any longer it shuts things down and you need to go find the right reef, any shorter, well, it just ain't the same. Great break though, even with small wind swell. I can remember getting ride for 50 yards on waves that did not exceed 6 inches on some planks. Good fun.



Oh, tonight, here. Walk out to the point with my boy. He suited up and charged the shore pound. I enjoy a bathing suit photo shoot. No one out. Not much going on. Cleaner than it has been, with no wind inside the headland. Not much going on, but every once and a while a head high wave would peel through the outside. Definitely worth paddling out for. Not sure where everyone went. Sure, it was smaller, and less consistent, but enough to keep you busy between the good ones. And there where chics in bikinis on the beach. Guess I should of brought my camera.

[Ottime]

Put up a blog post about getting a new board. Pics are all from the Lane in March and April. Here are a few.


This is a view from the toughest jail cell I can imagine





Been trying capture that moment when you get it.





Still a few head high plus days left in town.





Bingo.





Not what I intended to focus on, but I still like this one.





Going, going, going...

[Piggity]

Nice photos, the sun makes it look warm and inviting but I know otherwise. I'd like to see the photo of that guy finishing his turn off the lip

But you could imagine a wave that starts at some rocks and peel on a bit of reef, then sets up on a long right hand sand point,

I can imagine that, some call it dreaming. Sounds very similar to the right hand sand points down in mainland mex and those waves are dreamy

[icelanticskier]

GREAT STUFF!!!^^^^^^^^

amazing how sand moves around to change things so dramatically. another reason i prefer the outgoing is that i often surf with no leash and when that tide is coming in the board really takes off into the river if i happen to get lazy and let the board get away from me.

what a fun morning. had every intention of getting back to the river this am but had a bunch of time to kill before the 9am good tide window would start up there. headed down york beach to see what i had to work with for an hour or so before ogt bound. 4+ feet at 9+ seconds with a nice angle was providing a nice a-frame thigh/waist high swell. some stomach high sets were coming through as well. well i never did make it to ogt due to the perfect hero nature of what was coming through at york. just a coupla folks out along the whole beach and VERY fun rip-able short board waves. perfect shape and they held up for zero closeout lefts and rights. so much fun. a top to bottom pumpfest with nice micro floater finishes.

finished the morning off with coffee and breakfast on the patio in the sun with my sweetie and animals laying around. does it get any better?!

now i work

rog

[jtran10]

San O last night was really fun. My first time there. About 15 guys out maybe? then a lot of them left for our last 20 mins or so. My cousin said it was pretty uncrowded from what he's seen there. Waves were about waist high, rolling rights that just went on forever. The surf was exactly what I thought it would be. Super fun. I think I was the youngest guy out by about 15 years; my comparative fitness made it easy to catch a big set wave every larger set that came in. Plus, they weren't charging yet.

Sounds like my cousin and I are gonna make the Thursday night south OC session a thing while he's got some free time the next several weeks. PW7 et al, what are some other good spots we should check out? He's solely a LBer, so San O style is definitely his jam.

[jtran10]

http://www.surfline.com/live/ right now from Tahiti. Some crazy bodyboarders and surfers

[Piggity]

http://www.surfline.com/live/ right now from Tahiti. Some crazy bodyboarders and surfers

Did they switch locations in the past hour? Looks like Ala Moana, aka bowls, on south shore of Oahu to me.

Glad you scored San-O, great place for someone trying to progress their skills. I assume maybe you guys were at Ole Mans? If so then couple hundred yards north is Churches, another fun longboard break, fun right. I'll probably be up in your hood most of next week

[jtran10]

The email I got said Tahiti I think, but you're probably right. Never heard of this spot, so you're most likely correct.

[PowerWhore7]

Sounds like my cousin and I are gonna make the Thursday night south OC session a thing while he's got some free time the next several weeks. PW7 et al, what are some other good spots we should check out? He's solely a LBer, so San O style is definitely his jam.

Nice! We will get together for sure this summer....


Pretty much from Middle Trestles all the way down to Trail 6 is longboard friendly, and I love taking the log out so hit me up next Thursday. Plus, the swell looks good for next week.

[jtran10]

PW7 - I'm PM you with details for next week's Thursday session! Wold love to kick it.

got out at the point in cbad last night. Only guy sitting right on it. Had a group of loud, obnoxious groms on the inside, but nobody was going after the same wave I was. Had easily my best session on the shortboard so far. The waves really stood up, from waist to chest high range on the sets. Had 4-5 waves that I was really able to turn up and down the face multiple times, before trying to stomp a landing on the close out (I bailed every time obv). Wow! So that's what it feels like

piggity, any interest in getting out somewhere tomorrow? I'm free all day I think.

[icelanticskier]

a lull, finally. 1st break in over a month. cooked. done. rebuild

time for a walk on the beach......

rog