Anyone else get some today...?

[Superstar Punani]

Pretty shit here since I picked up a new 5'10 Rubble. Its maiden voyage will have to wait until the Maldives boat trip next month.

[Piggity]

^You rolling to the maldives solo again? I shoulda jumped on the pasta point trip my bros did a few years ago but 4g's+...damn

Pretty flat here, places north of O'side should have a couple leftover bumps rolling through but not worth the effort from where I live (edit:O'side harbor looks small but kinda fun on the cams but holy crowd)

[Superstar Punani]

^You rolling to the maldives solo again? I shoulda jumped on the pasta point trip my bros did a few years ago but 4g's+...damn

Pretty flat here, places north of O'side should have a couple leftover bumps rolling through but not worth the effort from where I live (edit:O'side harbor looks small but kinda fun on the cams but holy crowd)

Me and my Sydney crew are commandeering this for a couple of weeks.




The best thing about the Maldives is I've never seen a single fucking Brazilian there, unlike the Braziltawais. I wish a tsunami would wipe out the Brazilian coastline and its entire surf population.

[jtran10]

much better terramar session last night. Only about 10 guys out, a bit bumpier but nothing too bad. Had several good lefts, about chest high or so. My best day on the Rusty since the early April big SW we got.

Beginning to really think about getting a fish for this summer and beyond. Think it would be the perfect board for Terramar on most days. Also thinking the 6 3 is a bit too long for me. Question: when I'm on the face should I always have my back foot on the traction pad? I've noticed I'm often putting my back foot right in front of the pad, especially when I'm speed pumping. Seems for the length I'm more centered on the board when I'm off the pad, but maybe that's just me not knowing how to surf a shortboard.

[Ottime]

Supu's life just sucsk. Man, no surf, and now you're stuck traveling half way around the world to live on a yacht for a week plus just to get some waves. Bummer man. I feel for ya. My summer trip is to Maine. In July.

jtran. Likely, the 6'3" is for bigger/juicer conditions than you are surfing. Regardless, often when driving down the line, one shifts weight forward. I move my back foot around a bit, but prefer it when the ball of my foot is on the ramp of the pad (way back) for really driving a turn around. On my older 6'5" I used to have to stand way forward to connect sections on point breaks, but when the wave would bowl up for a section, I would shift back to drive top/bottom.

I saw your post about being beat by long boarders. I have a 6'0" 19.25" that is kind of full through the tail. Short board, not a fish. Generally speaking I can beat a long boarder for a wave by sitting deeper and under the wave. On my lower volume 6'3" I can't really do that unless the waves are very juicy. It just does not get going down the line easy enough in softer waves (when more long boarders may be out). Anyway, I think building your quiver to add a fish may give you what you need. OTOH, if the wave is just a small, weak, roller my 9'3" with about 3" of rocker will get in super early, so...

As far as too long for you, a 6'3" is a relatively short board. It will work in a lot of small waves, but will likely prefer clean, well shaped (as in vertical) stomach to head high plus surf. But you may want something with more volume (perhaps a wider tail) so you can stay on the tail in waves you are more likely to surf on a regular basis. My new 6'0" has a lot more volume than my 6'3" or 6'5" and is about equal to my 6'8". All my old boards were low volume, performance boards that excelled in good surf. That was great when I used to got to work at 3PM and had the entire day from sunrise until 2:30PM to surf, and all day on my midweek days off. I really only surfed in good surf. And I was 12 years younger. Now I surf when I can, and see the value in the new shapes. They actually work in everyday surf.

Surf looks like shit next few days, and I have a job interview on Tuesday. Wednesday the wife is gone all day. So maybe Thursday, if things line up. Guess I need to pull the bike down and check the tire pressure.

[Piggity]

Good luck on the interview

JTran, I think your current board would be fun on that left in front of the yellow house. If you surf any of the other peaks then I would think a fish or longboard is the call.

lso thinking the 6 3 is a bit too long for me. Question: when I'm on the face should I always have my back foot on the traction pad

If you plan on turning, then yes your foot needs to be over the fins. If you are driving down the line, then it is less important. I often surf off my front foot, FWIW.

I've noticed I'm often putting my back foot right in front of the pad, especially when I'm speed pumping.

This....

Regardless, often when driving down the line, one shifts weight forward. I move my back foot around a bit, but prefer it when the ball of my foot is on the ramp of the pad (way back) for really driving a turn around. On my older 6'5" I used to have to stand way forward to connect sections on point breaks, but when the wave would bowl up for a section, I would shift back to drive top/bottom.

[Piggity]

Me and my Sydney crew are commandeering this for a couple of weeks.

Holy fark...FTW.

[jtran10]

cool, guess I'm not kooking out as much as I thought, just need to get up on more waves and practice.

Piggity, I do really like the peak to the south of yellow house. More shifty, so the crowd is more spread out and I've generally had better luck scoring a lot of waves in a session. Thinking a fish would be great all around at Terramar and other places in SD in the summer. Really digging the speed and quickness I get on the 6'3", so the LB feels pretty cumbersome now when it's not just knee high or so. Figure the fish would be a good sub for waist high ish waves through the summer when I still want to have a bit more fun then just cruising down the line.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Still a total beginner here but got back into the Northsea yesterday for some N-swell. Was able to make my first real bottom turn (woohoo) then got mangled. Water temp is starting to rise (6-7 degree C now). Wednesday (day after crowning of King Willem Alexander) should be good...

PS my arms feel like they are going to fall off right now. Ugh. I need paddle power.

[Clownshoe]

Scored some clean shoulder high waves on Eleuthera this week.

First waves I've caught in 3 years!

[Ottime]

Is Whistler closed? Nice gig you've got going. Snow to tropics.

And neglected, 6-7C water temps sound chilly. While these parts claim to be cold it is quite rare to drop below 10C. Power to ya.

[Clownshoe]

Ott, Ya Whistler is closed. Taking some long awaited tropical beach time before the bike park opens.

I wasn't expecting surf in the Bahamas, but there it was!

Also randomly happened to meet the old school skate legend Barry Zaritsky, and got a chance to surf and fish with him. Definitely an unexpected bonus!

[Ottime]

^^^nice. The break looks warm and empty.

Been making the most of the meager conditions the past few days, getting out twice on the Rick. That board is so much fun, no matter what the nay sayers say about longboards. Even went out on the fun board one day. Of course, today (an tomorrow) when I can't surf, the wind swell is showing at 10.6@10 from 315 and the groundswell is 1.8@17 from 170. Winds are even a light off shore up the coast this morning. I can think of a few spots that would be pretty fun right now. Hope the south push fills us with fog and light winds to last through Thursday and Friday when I get back in the water. After this run of south it looks like we go on a hold, and I really will have to get the bike out.

[Piggity]

That break does look fun. Any photos on the interwebz of that place going off, clownshoe?

No offshores down here, cloudy marine layer with south winds. Pt. Loma Buoy reading 3.9'@18 and rest of the buoys around 3'+@18, readings coming from the 190-200 range. Might go poach some waves up the coast today. Looks like Thursday could have some morning offshores combined with a peaking south swell and 80 degree air temp at the beaches, gotta keep some energy in the tank until then.

[jtran10]

should be heading out this evening before sunset. super windy up on the hill in carlsbad, but looks like it may be a bit calmer in oside

[Clownshoe]

Caught a couple great waves, and took a couple beatings yesterday.

Sipping coffee and getting ready for a sun up session. I always forget how tired my arms are after the first couple days...

[jtran10]

should be heading out this evening before sunset. super windy up on the hill in carlsbad, but looks like it may be a bit calmer in oside

That didn't happen. Wind was making things pretty wonky. Checked the beach at 6:30 this morning and the predicted light offshores turned into a pretty steady onshore. Swell definitely filling in but basically everything at Tamarack was a close out. With the conditions as they were and the bottoming out tide didn't have enough motivation to check anywhere else, so went back to sleep.

[Superstar Punani]

Trestles is firing, as evidenced by the 100+ polesmokers dropping in on each other

http://www.surfline.com/live/

I'm glad I don't surf there regularly. My fists would be constantly sore from cracking skulls.

[Ottime]

It seems like pole smoking TV is blocked from my computer. Anyway, that is not a bad thing. I'll just have to trust you know your pole smokers. I've never made the trek down to Lowers, but never seemed to have issues at Uppers or any of the other zones. But every time I watch the surfline feed there are multiple drop ins. The funny thing about it, the war breaks so nicely, there is really no reason why you should not make the wave from the peak.

[Piggity]

First time I've seen that live cam. it's basically right at the edge of the water and names the pros currently in the lineup? interesting


Just got out of the water in Cbad, caught a fair share of really fun waves. This is one of those swells where 50% of the people walk away feeling good about their session and 50% get skunked due to crowds/lulls. Place I was at basically shut down the last 1/2 hour and nothing was coming through, luckily I had already got mine by that time.

[PowerWhore7]

Holy fuck what a day, Trestles was absolutely firing! Overhead and lined up for fucking ever....we surfed Middles, in front of the two shitters south of Lowers and that horrid shitshow. We were within earshot of the point and could hear all the shit talking and hooting. It sounds like bunch of fucking owls out there..... “hoot-hoot, dropping left, dropping right, hoot-hoot” HA-ha too funny, some real talented surfers in the pack though, fun to watch but fuck that.

[Clownshoe]

scored again today on Eleuthera.

Caught the two best waves of my life, back to back. Head high beauties that popped up in front of me and picked me up with barely a stroke! Rode em switch all the way to the road!

Spent the afternoon chillin at a beach on the Carribean side and then went back to the Atlantic side for a sun down session.

Awesome.

Kinda crowded today. Seemed like the whole surf population of the island was out there.




All 6 of em.

[Piggity]

Empty waves at an empty beach on a tropical island with a surf shack that has a sick view, not bad. Also looks like PW7 scored.

[PowerWhore7]

Empty waves at an empty beach on a tropical island with a surf shack that has a sick view, not bad.

Clownshoe - FTW...hands down.

[Clownshoe]

Definitely the stuff dreams are made of. After 3 years off the board, this was pretty sweet.

I'll get one sunrise session tomorrow before I head back to reality. Serious surfers might call this place small or half-ass, but for me this was tropical paradise. Got buzzed by a shark in the lineup on the Altantic this morning, then swam with rays on the Caribbean this afternoon.

Kind of cool that I'll surf in the Bahamas in the morning and then sleep in my bed in Whistler in the evening.

Florida mags should definately check this place out.