Cleaner today, half the size as yesterday but still a few small corners to be found. Left knee is real shaky, doing a little skiing this weekend and that should be interesting, or not.
Left Mammoth this morning at 6am to get some of this swell and State Park in San Clemente did not disappoint. Chest high love this afternoon...even managed to snag a in & out barrel while being 10lbs overweight from bacon & IPA this winter. HA-ha
( my apologies for the shitty I-phone pics..)
![]()
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
day late...........again.
had a busy 8 days off from work. few days of skiing, few days of surfing, and a shit ton of driving for family stuff.
got out in OGT late yesterday afternoon for some small waist high leashless low tide 9/10 second period fun. bottom has changed a bit for the better. was the only one out for quite some time. found that the north side of the river was breaking best with looooooong rights holding up. had to nurse some of em, but pretty damn fun.
looks like some good potential for saturday in the waist/shoulder range. clean of course
rog
^^^morning goodness
Who wants to show a guy around socal for a day or two? I'm going be in Palm Springs next week and can take a day or two to ski or surf. Thinking I might bring the board this year, as it does not look like there is snow around the tram, and I'm not so sure about driving up to Mammy area (although I might).
Anyway, looks like a decent south is headed our way and should peak on Tuesday about 3.5@17. Up here, winds permitting, that would give up some head high plus goodness. I imagine plenty will be firing. I am thinking of either SD or Trestles. I know next to nothing about SD, but I know where to park for Trestles. Any other places I should consider? Malibu and LA seem like too much traffic/driving. Thoughts?
Lane was fun today. Actually got to surf during a decent tide.
If you are talking about the ox-, I'm working on gettin the family to stop there for an hour or two on the way down. But once in the desert, it is about 3 plus hours away with no traffic (so at 3:30 am maybe) while SD-SC coastline is just about 2. If OTOH, you are referring to somewhere else I need more clues to jolt my slow brain.
Point Loma Buoy reading 4.95'@20 from 188 and O'side 3.22'@20.
Dos Amigos, donde en la manana?
Edit: How could I forget to mention I almost stuck my board into BS720 today, he was chill about it....whoops! We both caught 45 waves in 90 minutes, fun times.
Buoys on the rise...5.6'@20 but more southerly in high 170's and low 180's the past few readings. Hoping that wind takes a hike
Last edited by Piggity; 04-15-2013 at 11:02 PM.
Word around town is that Cotton's was invaded by several mags today, many waves were bagged.
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Nice photos. I was paddling back out after catching a long left and I looked to the south in the glimmering sunlight and noticed a mountain man with Yeti like features, was this PW7? Were you out between 11:30-1:30?
BS720 texted me late this afternoon and said it was still good. He's talking about going out again tomorrow morning. I might be able to swing a morning session.
I'm thinking of first light ish tomorrow. Be back in the desert for lunch. Maybe uppers. Or if we want to try and get lowers I have state park passes and we could walk north. Alarm set for 3:15am. Was fun in the water today. The ones that lined up through the inside were plenty fun.
Nice work PW7. Really makes me wish I didn't have to be in the office today.
What time did you go? I am thinking of pulling a Thurs evening session, although I think the wind will still be killing it. If the afternoon winds have not been destroying it (as they have in north county) I might give it a go.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Nice everyone....
I was in the water from 10:30-1 and I am pretty sure I saw you guys killing it out there. Dawn patrol today sounds cold as shit but I have chores to take care of before I can go have fun (you know- laundry, folding clothes, dishes, sweeping, etc..HA-ha) so have fun and be safe, maybe next time.
Please report back about the conditions if you can......
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Off shores are blowing this morning between Oceanside and Carl's Jr. Tide is a bit low, but it looks fun, if a bit chilly. Was 28F on my drive here this AM.
Holy shit LA is funny. Lots of cars here today. Lots of kids here today. Why are you not is school? If that group that just pulled up is the future of America we are truly fucked.
I guess it will make it easier for my kid to get a job and earn a living.
Mag invasion round 2 complete, Uppers was slayed. Still some fun ones out there, Ottime caught a nice right down the beach and I didn't see him again for another 20 minutes or so.
Never made it out to the Ox-shores. Drive down took a while and the little guy was out cold.
That just means I'm a slow paddler. Real fun out there this morning and we seem to time the crowd and wind perfectly. A little more water on those cobblestones an the right would really come alive.
I hear 30 waves in 90 minutes will do that to yaThat just means I'm a slow paddler.
edit:py cell phone pic from halfway down the beach. There was a fun left just north of this that kept producing some nice corners
![]()
Last edited by Piggity; 04-17-2013 at 03:05 PM.
Sore as hell right now, my left knee and my back are on fire. 2 days of skiing and 3 days of surfing since Friday will do the trick. Thought about walking down the trail at blacks beach but probably gonna have to pass, unless someone provides motivation
Long time no post. Had a great run of 7 days straight/8 sessions when we got the nice south swell a couple weekends ago. Since then went to Coachella, and it appears spring's really hit with these onshores every afternoon.
A couple weekends ago was my best weekend so far. Saturday of the S swell took out the 6 3 and scored some really nice waves. I was beat from that session (and the 4 previous days) so took out the LB on Sunday, and was rewarded with probably the best conditions I've surfed at Terramar. Chest/shoulder high, lefts and rights for 100 yards..basically all the way back to the beach before closing out. It was unreal. I meant to just go out just because I couldn't NOT surf on that swell, but ended up staying out for a couple hours.
^^^^sounds nice. Always good to get in the water. And ride different boards.
Wish I could have provided the motivation, but the long drive and gas money was getting to me. Besides, I should at least say hello to my parents while I'm down here. The Trestle cameras looked fun again this morning. Sure the afternoon NW howled yesterday, but it sure cleaned up nicely for this morning. Hoping things clean up up north for Sunday. I'm ready to get back in the water. Siting poolside watching my son and dad swim is fine, but it sure isn't the same as bobbing in the ocean.
Got home last night around 11. Hit the water around 9 this morning. 6.6@10 from way north and 1.4@17 from way south. Went up near the county line to sit on the boil in front of the rock pile. Mostly weak, warbled, thigh high, almost a wave type of things. Still, plenty of them to keep ya moving. And every once in a while a few would come in, hit the boil, stand up and throw out a nice chest high bowl to play with. Tuck in there, or go for about two tight hard off the tops, then wait for it to set up on the inside, race it, and pop off the top as hard as you can. Fun stuff for sure.
But damn it is cold up here. Down south I was using an old suit with pretty much open seams, and after a few hours, I felt a little chill. And I thought, wow, it is barely warmer than home, all the way down here. Nope. Today O had a toasty, hooded 4/3 and boats, and my god was it fucking cold. Real cold.
Whatever. Looks like a fun week conditions wise. Hope we can squeak out a little more swell. This small stuff is fun enough to keep me in the water, but ya really do need to get 30 waves in 90 minutes to make it feel like you got the three worthy ones you were really looking for. Tuesday looks like the peak again.
I got some out of focus shots of uppers I'll get out there soon.
Bookmarks