Anyone else get some today...?

[icelanticskier]

Weather is perfect right now, not a breath of wind combo'd with fun waves. Nothing epic but 70 degrees, glassy and SH-HH waves for days. I think I just caught 30 waves in 90 minutes, I kinda know what it feels like to be Rog for a day. Shit eating grin right now


Yesterday. 4th and 1, punt team



Today's view. I passed this guy on the beach and pointed him to the peak that had been working all morning, looks like he scored a fun inside left

NICE PIGGIES!!!

feels good, eh?!

day off today due to victory at sea shit fest. buoy 17 feet @ 11 seconds now. should be good tomorrow as winds drop to near zero with head+ surf. may just work noon-4pm tomorrow to score all morning then again in the pm. friday/saturday shoould be good for at least a coupla more 2 hour sessions. may set the 5'8 up thruster just for yucks. had it set up as a quad with the k 2.1's and comp leash in the ohead surf the last few days. fast and loosey goosey.

6 months and close to 150 sessions on the kechele and it's holding up super well. may get a full season/year out of this one. that would never happen for me with a standard 4x4 top and single 4 bottom.

rog

[jtran10]

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/spo/3640330829.html

This one a bit skinny? 6 5 may make up for that volume-wise though?

[Piggity]

A fun size mix of building NW and SW swell was showing across Southern California on Wednesday. For the better exposed spots that meant 2-4' surf, while good NW and combo breaks were up to head high. Standout spots in southern Ventura and south San Diego were even a bit overhead on the best sets.

Its about that time, thinking about going to the best beach break in SD. Please pray the wind stays down, could be the frosting on the cake session if it does. Actually maybe tomorrow or sat might be....all good though


JT, 20"+ width will give you more stability for both paddling and surfing, in the 18"s for width it can sometimes get unstable, for me anyway. So in this case the 2" in length will probably not outweigh the extra volume you lose in the width/thickness. Piranha would be a better choice imo, that would be my guess over the internets though. But I'm a semi fatboy and need some float. If you're in mid 100's for weight range then someone else should chime in to give better perspective on what works best for that weight range

A lot of the shapers now measure it by Liters of volume. Your height and weight and experience will translate into an estimated ideal volume of float. I'm around 210lbs and am riding a 6'2" with around 34L of volume. The volume can be distributed in various parts of the board such as thicker tail, thicker deck, thicker rails, nose and wherever else the shaper decides. Once you know what works best for you then go the custom route and keep ordering the same boards, or optimize it over time.

[jtran10]

Did my volumeization earlier today on firewire's site. They say I'm 34-40L. That 6 3 Rusty seems to be right in line with some of the lower volume boards they were suggesting to me. I told the guy I'd do $100 assuming it's fine IRL, so we'll see if he bites.

FWIW I'm 5 8 155ish

[Long duc dong]

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/spo/3640330829.html

This one a bit skinny? 6 5 may make up for that volume-wise though?

I think this is a bit narrow. The length won't make up too much of the narrow factor when it comes to paddling, so I would go wider.

[Ottime]

I was thinking about that spot for my sunset escape.

Nice link.

[PowerWhore7]

California dreamin today for sure....

Trestles

[davieboot]

The weather plus decent surf today made me smile. Bikinis on the beach didn't hurt either.

[icelanticskier]

storm surf this am turned clean and lined up this afternoon. went to work for noon, but pulled the trigger at 330pm as i saw the buoy sitting around 9+feet @ 11 seconds and coming in straight. texted the gf as she was on her way home from work. she was game for a surf

definitely the biggest i've surfed all week with everything o head and then some. paddleout was a bit of a challenge and even got worked on a coupla duck dives and had to ditch and dive a few set waves to recover. once out tho, everthing was great. some fun bombs were rolling through fer sure. amazing how versatile the 20" wide 5'8 quad is. had to draw out the 1st bottom turns a bit more than on a chip, but the board provides a super fun skatey feel that makes the inside speed sections so much fun.

my gal had a great time and it was so great to share the afternoon and come home for beers and a home cooked meal in front of the woodstove

tomorrow is looking REALLY FUN. love starting work at noon.

quite the run of swell................

NICE PICS PW!

rog

[Piggity]

This thread came alive today, good stuff. Nice link Hugh.

Lots of fun today, SH-HH+ with occasion set wave out the back when both swells combined. Got a disgusting left that begged me to smack the lip 4 times with a nice cutty in there too. Got pitched on a bigger set wave right in front of the pack, whoops. Finished the session off with one of my best backside turns since el salvy

[gotham]

I first learned to surf 5 years ago, did it for 2 days. Nowhere to surf where I live in BC. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for letting me live vicariously through you until I can get back on a board somewhere.

[icelanticskier]

this morning was session #6 in as many days. a taper day, the day after many overhead days in a row, and to be quite honest it was nice to pull up to perfect clean chest/shoulder high ripper zippers. fun rail to rail full round turn carving. easy paddling, not much duck diving, and rippable a-frames rolling in. clean. kinda strange that there was more current then there has been all week, but when it's pulling ya south, just keep taking rights

tomorrow should still be in the waist+ range with perfect winds and tide. stoked to grab another one tomorrow before things go walden pond till mid/late week when things get active again. hmmm, maybe time to go skiing......

rog

[Long duc dong]

It's looking good all weekend for Orange County. I'm leaving right now to get an early afternoon session in. The wind is not supposed to kick up too badly, so we will see.

[Piggity]

Still glassy, somewhat walled where we surfed. Little bit of a let down after surfing Blacks yesterday. Good news is, somehow convinced my wife for a 2nd hall pass later today. Weather is mid to upper 70's and no wind yet

[Ottime]

nice pics pigs. you have been providing. i need to just start pulling out the iphone at least. that glassy looks so nice.

followed a friend out to sidewalks last night as he called and said it was legit head high. i got there, and it was a wait. and more like chest high. he had been in an hour and still was waveless. second half of my session was okay as crowd thinned and i got a few. still, should have been some where more exposed. swell is still around today. hoping saturday morning will bring some goodness.

[jtran10]

picked a bad day to have ducks tickets and guests. No AM surf, no PM surf

This weekend looks great in n. county though

[icelanticskier]

7 in 7 and today was my fave by far for this weeklong swell. smaller waist/chest with a few head high sets, but man o man it was lining up and a-framing to perfection and glassy. do anything ya want on the waves this am. was trying all kinds of different pressuring and weighting/unweighting, and just trying to surf as dynamically as i could by staying in the most critical part of the wave and continually pushing the board up through the lip and re-entering as if i were on a see-saw if you know what i mean. maybe that's confusing.

anyway, killer morning out there before work. just fucking pretty with perfect waves. another good swell looks to take form for wednesday through and into the weekend with good winds.

off to work.............

rog

[Piggity]

^Nice. Instead of breaking the fins off the top I've been trying to go as late and vertical as possible (not very late or vertical for others but ok for me anyway) and have the fins hold, some of my best turns ever have probably been this week. At least in terms of volume of quality

nice pics pigs. you have been providing. i need to just start pulling out the iphone at least. that glassy looks so nice.

Thanks man, this weeks been fun. Some of those have been cell phone pics, the last one I posted was anyway.


As far as surf, Looks like new NW is hitting south county buoys right now at 3.5'-4' @20 sec. Kinda torn on what spot to check since the swell seems less ideal in-between NW's and also the weekend warriors are probably out in full swing right now. Thinking about waiting a little and going to Blacks


Waves were meh but the sunset was good last night. py cell phone pic turned out decent, except maybe an uneven horizon, damn photographer

[Ottime]

Solid here right now. And calm.

[Ottime]

Two days, each with a long session, with head high to well OH surf. Yesterday just me and my buddy on a right hand reef that was chewing and chugging. Thick OH waves. Fun. A little type 2 fun on the bigger sets. A few DOH freight trains. Could not even touch those on the 6'0". Nearby, a place we call Little Fiji my buddy described as scary looking. I thought it looked inviting, except it is one of those waves you can not just race to the channel. You have to pull out before the inside bowl explodes on the reef. So I can understand scary. Today was a touch smaller and I headed to a poi t that is usually pretty empty. At one pint there were more than 15 folks out. Fun style after yesterday. Mostly a foot or two OH, long waves with a nice walled outside, mellow middle and a roping inside. Good stuff around here this weekend. I understand that town has been goin off.

[Ottime]

Nws forecast looks good for Tues when I have a good window. Winds SE @ 5 and swell 6 to 8 @ 20. Hope there is plenty of west in it. Should be as it is coming from the dateline.

[PowerWhore7]

^^ sounds like you been getting after it, nice work, you are not headed to the mountains though? ^^

Looks like you guys are gonna get it good...

[Ottime]

I stay at home with my boy. No house guest this week to cover the duty. Snow won't be here till Wed/Thurs anyway. Might head up for a tour day Sat, or with the family, put the little one in day care and ski lifts with the mrs. But Tues, the mrs gets home from work before 3, so, with the light these days, I get a solid surf in.

I'll probably run away to the hills when the in laws show up for a four days later this month. They are great peeps, but my mom in law can take care of the little guy while I go ski, so I tend to. Looking forward to my sister's week long visit at months end. Should get a good mix of ski days and surf. Might even do a little work around the house. But I should at least make sure I'm in town for her Bday I think.

[Long duc dong]

Got three sessions in this weekend.

Friday afternoon was shoulder high and slightly bumpy Newport. It was not great, but there were a few surprisingly nice peaks that came in. I was wishing I had gotten it earlier, but the office will do that to you. As the tide dropped it got a bit more walled, and the corners became harder to find.

Saturday morning from 9-11 was super fun. Pushing head high, with clean conditions and a high tide. It was my best session in a while, with both rights and lefts that would occasionally line up. After that I went to the dog beach and wished I had gone up to HB. HB was still clean, and about a foot bigger. I the cliffs looked really fun.

Sunday I was planning on Trestles, but got lazy and did an evening Newport session. It was shoulder high, with poor shape, and some lulls. The smaller peaks were actually better, but it was still very shape challenged. I surfed with my head up my ass, could not find an open face to save my life. I had one good wave at the end, with the sun going down. The other two guys out were killing it, which confirmed that these waves could be surfed well, just not by me. One of those sessions where you are just awkward and out of sync, despite it being my third session of the weekend.

All in all a fun weekend. Hope everyone else got some too. The water is cold, probably 56 which is cold for a socal wuss like me. Got to give O'Neill credity though, my Psycho 3/2 kept me pretty warm all things considered.

[jtran10]

I ended up picking up that 6 3 Rusty for $100 on Saturday. Took it out Saturday afternoon; blew the drop on 2 waves, kinda floundered on some others. Either way, looks like it will be a fun and rewarding next step for me. Board seems to be in fine condition for the price. Fun to be able to be riding a board I can duck dive, though I still need to work on my technique. Paddling was HARD after I started to get a little bit tired. Great work out though.

My saturday test session was the only time I was able to get out over the weekend due to guests. Sunday brought them around SD, and down to OB in the afternoon to walk the pier. Surfline was calling it 5-7 feet, but sets were easily 2-3 feet overhead on the 2 guys that were out. Never realized how close to the water the OB pier is until having a huge set come in and pound the bottom of the pier. Maybe the biggest waves I've seen this winter.

Got out for an hour pre-work this morning on the 7 6. Only guy out for first 45 minutes. Pretty mixed up conditions, but was able to pick and choose and caught a couple great waves, most notably a HH right that stayed clean to the shallows. Best wave I've caught in a couple weeks.

Maybe go paddle around on the 6 3 after work if the wind doesn't blow things out too much.