
Originally Posted by
Ottime
Excellent.
Spent the late morning getting cold on the mini gun waiting out the back for the bomb that rarely came. And when the set of two showed up more than a half hour into the session, I was out of position. When I missed the next set of two a half hour later I decided to paddle in. Caught an 8 footer, and went to the beach to grab a smaller board.
As I was running back to the car, the wind started to come up so I drove to a protected point and grabbed my new(ish) 6'0" and processed to have my best session ever on it. Long, lined up, rip panel two foot overhead. Not grinding barrels, but fun, fast, down the line 100 plus yard waves. And I was killing it. Until I got so tired I could barely catch anything. Best session in a long time. Can't wait for the mrs to get home tonight so I can go back out.
Bookmarks