Anyone else get some today...?

[icelanticskier]

next 5 days here nh/me/ma look redonky donk. head to head n half clean till sunday. sunday should still be chest. time to eat my wheaties!

rog

glad i ate my wheaties. fuck, burly this am. overhead storm surf, but clean due to offshores. pulled up to the pipe nh and no one out, well a couple were trying but turned tail. couple suppers had no luck either, so i scanned the beach for an escape through the turmoil. found it, multiple times

big, burly, shifty, wedgy, steep......all to myself. lots of lookers, no takers. fun drops fer sure and paddleouts made easy with patience. the 5'8" continues to perform.

heard the points were good but crowded as hell, fuck that.

tomorrow looks really fun as well.

anyone still surfing left coast?

rog

[Piggity]

Drove by the surf today and that was a mistake, looks glassy and fun. Lots of people scoring pow this week and now guys are scoring some waves, double downer for the injured guy, damn.

[icelanticskier]

with most areas in northern new england picking up between 4-5 feet of snow in the past 2 weeks, i still much prefer what i drove up to this am in maine. 10+ feet @ 11 seconds and winds straight offshore......and nobody out........at 8am........in york........one mile from my new house

snow/ice covered roads, temps in the mid 20's, full sun, and gorgeous overhead waves coming in. didn't take me long to get the rest of my suit pulled up and mitts on for the paddle out to soloville.

paddle outs were easy and waves were just fucking beautiful. super mellow takeoffs to big sweeping cruisy open face carves. one other guy joined me a bit into my session, and then just one more, that's it. don't know what it is with this place, but compared to new hampshire less than a dozen miles south, i ain't complaining. spoke with a buddy who was driving around the nh seascoast looking for a good spot and he reported the beach breaks to be big and disorganized. he settled on rye rocks where about 30+ of his closest friends were sharing the peak. no thanx.
he later told me that it wasn't even that good. the sets that came through were 2/3 feet ohead, but most waves were only stomach high. weird. i almost headed that way. glad i stayed north.

tomorrow looks small, maybe a waist/chest pulse sunday, then we could be in our 1st flat spell in some time. over 20 weeks in a row now of waist high or better surf, with many weeks offering head +, it's been quite the late summer/fall/early winter.

the skiing has been good as well. gonna get up on washington on monday to do a bit of skinning.

keep that chin up pigman!!!

rog

[Ottime]

Finally did get a few today. Spent last week in upstate NY and next in the local hills. This afternoon, after I got everything unpacked, and then packed, was my only window. And before I left it was more of ski weather, than surf weather, with nasty, strong south winds. So today, it was nice to get in the water.

I think about how rog gets 39 waves in 30 minutes, and how you said you don't like waiting. Well, today was big. Not huge, but big enough, and weird enough to make the first 100 yards off the beach at Scotts a complete washing machine of a paddle out. Not seeing much in the sense of organization on the outside, I headed back toward town and figured I'd take out a smaller board. Having forgotten fins in the garage for my new 6'0", I opted to look at 4 Mile, thinking my 6'7" narrow square tail would be the call. The point looked less than perfect, but it did look about 10' and it did look like the channel went all the way to the beach.

The paddle out was easy off the beach, but it took at least 10 minutes to get out far enough that I was at the end of the wave, and then I started heading up the point, slowly at first, trying to get a sense of what was going on. Turned out all the folks I saw running down had abandoned their effort and no one was in the line up. Caught a few corners. While they had a little size, they were not what I had seen from the bluff, and they were not reeling. Rather more like a big explosive end to a wave setting up for some nice big carves.

So I paddled out deeper. Had a hard time finding the bowl. The peak that were working were easily 10 footers, some 12, and a few bigger. My board was not even a mini gun, so I start to wonder what I was doing out here all by myself. Then I heard a voice and two others were paddling out towards me, so I figured I had to man up, or lose priority. So I paddled out a little bit further, and quite a bit deeper. And then one swung to me. Double overhead drop, to racing wall. Was able to get up on it for my first top turn, generate some speed and blast through the section. As the wave started to slow down, I got one huge, fast carving turn in, and then it bowled up and started to swallow me. Pointed it, and came out down the line and the whole thing shifted into the channel. Felt good.

Got a few more, but none quite as good. A ripable 10 footer. An attempt on a bomb that ended in a pearl 2/3 of the way down, but some how spared me by tossing me out the back after holding me down for just about 5 seconds. Missed a few opportunities. Got drilled by a big set right after sunset. And found a smaller one that sent me in. Maybe 10 waves in 1.5 hours. Had a blast, and got a killer ride that will stay with me for days. And managed that one on a step up board. I can only imagine my wave count and session had I taken out the mini gun. Even if that was the only wave I got the entire session, it would have been worth waiting for. Sure is good to get wet. Now off tho the powder.

/blog

[supermodel159]

^Very nice.

[Piggity]

Double overhead drop, to racing wall. Was able to get up on it for my first top turn, generate some speed and blast through the section. As the wave started to slow down, I got one huge, fast carving turn in, and then it bowled up and started to swallow me. Pointed it, and came out down the line and the whole thing shifted into the channel. Felt good.

Sounds fun!

[Long duc dong]

Glad someone is getting some. I've been sick for the past 10+ days. I'm finally getting better, so I might be able to get out for New Year's. I missed epic Mammoth too, which is just killing me. Enjoy it for me, whether you are in mountains or waves.

[icelanticskier]

Finally did get a few today. Spent last week in upstate NY and next in the local hills. This afternoon, after I got everything unpacked, and then packed, was my only window. And before I left it was more of ski weather, than surf weather, with nasty, strong south winds. So today, it was nice to get in the water.

I think about how rog gets 39 waves in 30 minutes, and how you said you don't like waiting. Well, today was big. Not huge, but big enough, and weird enough to make the first 100 yards off the beach at Scotts a complete washing machine of a paddle out. Not seeing much in the sense of organization on the outside, I headed back toward town and figured I'd take out a smaller board. Having forgotten fins in the garage for my new 6'0", I opted to look at 4 Mile, thinking my 6'7" narrow square tail would be the call. The point looked less than perfect, but it did look about 10' and it did look like the channel went all the way to the beach.

The paddle out was easy off the beach, but it took at least 10 minutes to get out far enough that I was at the end of the wave, and then I started heading up the point, slowly at first, trying to get a sense of what was going on. Turned out all the folks I saw running down had abandoned their effort and no one was in the line up. Caught a few corners. While they had a little size, they were not what I had seen from the bluff, and they were not reeling. Rather more like a big explosive end to a wave setting up for some nice big carves.

So I paddled out deeper. Had a hard time finding the bowl. The peak that were working were easily 10 footers, some 12, and a few bigger. My board was not even a mini gun, so I start to wonder what I was doing out here all by myself. Then I heard a voice and two others were paddling out towards me, so I figured I had to man up, or lose priority. So I paddled out a little bit further, and quite a bit deeper. And then one swung to me. Double overhead drop, to racing wall. Was able to get up on it for my first top turn, generate some speed and blast through the section. As the wave started to slow down, I got one huge, fast carving turn in, and then it bowled up and started to swallow me. Pointed it, and came out down the line and the whole thing shifted into the channel. Felt good.

Got a few more, but none quite as good. A ripable 10 footer. An attempt on a bomb that ended in a pearl 2/3 of the way down, but some how spared me by tossing me out the back after holding me down for just about 5 seconds. Missed a few opportunities. Got drilled by a big set right after sunset. And found a smaller one that sent me in. Maybe 10 waves in 1.5 hours. Had a blast, and got a killer ride that will stay with me for days. And managed that one on a step up board. I can only imagine my wave count and session had I taken out the mini gun. Even if that was the only wave I got the entire session, it would have been worth waiting for. Sure is good to get wet. Now off tho the powder.

/blog

YAWN......

JK, never knew ya had it in ya, nice blog!

8 inches of snow overnight and howling ne to nne to n, and finally nw winds by early morning turned york beach into a deserted seascape of empty head+ a-frame ne swell sets. always cool to trudge down to the beach in knee deep snow along the rock wall top. lots of north south current running on the inside, but once out you could sit still and chill. the ocean was gorgeous in the early morning sun. 23 degrees with 49 degree water felt very pleasant. ez pz flat-ish open face walls coming in. like a walk in the park. some of the outside rights would make it through and hit the inside bar, jack up and really give ya somethin to sink yer fins into.

what a year it's been. well over 200 days with many double/triple session days. can't wait to get moved into the new house and be done with it.

rog

[Ottime]

^^^^ I forgot to mention that everyone knows the good surf is all down in NH. It is good to keep it that way. Sure, the river mouth can get fair every once in a while, but there really is not anything else worth surf. Especially around Wells or York. I mean, they have Rye and the Wall. Who, or where, could compare with that.

Do you every go up and check moody point and fishermans cove? I dearly miss those spots. Not as consistent as restaurants down by you, but when they go, they go nice. I never even had one session at those spots with anyone else in the water. Lonely almost.

Snows good enough up here. Hope to dawn patrol some mini golf before I send the mrs out on te lifts and take the boy for a few runs.

[icelanticskier]

^^^^ I forgot to mention that everyone knows the good surf is all down in NH. It is good to keep it that way. Sure, the river mouth can get fair every once in a while, but there really is not anything else worth surf. Especially around Wells or York. I mean, they have Rye and the Wall. Who, or where, could compare with that.

yup, so true i was more than willing to have to pay state income tax in trade for empty "shitty" waves.

Do you every go up and check moody point and fishermans cove? I dearly miss those spots. Not as consistent as restaurants down by you, but when they go, they go nice. I never even had one session at those spots with anyone else in the water. Lonely almost.

haven't been there yet to surf but have checked out moody. was talking with a friend today who surfs up that way and she said the only problem with that area is there's never anyone out to surf with. funneh you should mention it

Snows good enough up here. Hope to dawn patrol some mini golf before I send the mrs out on te lifts and take the boy for a few runs.

sounds like good times. enjoy!

rog

[Piggity]

Well, it's been hard to sit on the sidelines and everyday that passes, it will get harder. Forecast is calling for good conditions next few days with HH to possible OH. Friend invited me to do some meadow skipping tomorrow, I said no to avoid a setback. Told him maybe this weekend Now I'm debating surfing tomorrow or Tuesday....yikes.

[Ottime]

Get your hands on a boogie or knee board. I did that when I broke my leg and found was to not miss too many swells.

[Piggity]

I thought about body surfing with fins the other day but the resistance of water during extension was a concern for recovering from subluxation. I'll worry about that another time, for now I'm drinking some wine, then beers and whatever else that cures pain....happy New Year to all y'all.

2013, year of the huge shacks and neck deep pow.

[BS720]

Tomorrow is going to be sick. Can hear it crashing from my apartment, winds are good. Surfline forecast definitely down from what it was, but that's good. Not too many places in central cal can take 20'+. Happy New Year to all.

[Piggity]

^Enjoy it, stay safe up there guys. My first wave of 2013 was a nice HH left, stoked beyond belief to catch my first wave in weeks.

[Ottime]

Ya. Enjoy and stay safe. Looks like a fun swell, as long as all the other left overs mix in clean. Of course it goes off when I head to the hills with the family. Not too bad, as I got into a spivey line and a powdery line yesterday afternoon. Thank go for skins and good gear.

Oh, wait, this is a surf thread. Thank god for barrels.

As for a Finatic review. They are standing by the terms from when I signed up. So I will get free shipping on new fins. I subscribed for two months, but have not been getting much water time. So I tried two. EA Vector and Rusty BlackStix. The Vectors were fine, but te BlackStix certainly stores up power in a turn way better. Noticeable difference in flex.

It took about a week to get new fins, so that slowed things down. It would be nice if they used a tracking system, so once your fins going back got scanned, new ones got sent out.

Otherwise worth the 10.99 for two months. If I was on my game more and the surf cooperated, I could see trying 2-3 fins a month. Seein shipping is about $8, if you buy from these guys it is not much more to try a few fins before buying.

[icelanticskier]

get it west coasters. winter is officially here EC. FLAT. high pressure, cold as fuck, and no storms or surf for at least a week or more. ocean looks like a lake. haven't seen that since early august.

thank goodness the skiings good.

rog

[jtran10]

So was down in Pescadero/Todos Santos all of last week. Surfed 1-2 times most days, all sessions at Cerritos. Holiday crowds were definitely in full effect - the main peak at Cerritos sometimes had a crowd of 20-30 on it during mid-morning. Crowds were easily handled by surfing early or late.

Swell was basically HH to a couple feet OH all week, first a NW, then a SW, then another NW. Some days it was closing out pretty much everywhere, other days the waves were running long and clean. Unfortunately most of the trip I was stuck on old, waterlogged boards that weren't too great, but hooked up with a friend for the end of the week and got out on one of his older boards, which was infinitely better than anything I had access too previously.

Some good days, some not as good days for me as far as wave catching goes, but was super fun to be in the 75 degree water in board shorts.

Very happy my gf's parents just moved to Pescadero for good in November . What an amazing place, can't wait to go back.

[jtran10]

Was gonna head out this morning, but the 45 degree early morning and 57 degree ocean dissuaded me. Ended up taking my coffee to the beach instead, waves were still pretty small in Carlsbad. Gonna take a day or 2 to re acclimate to the "cold". Gotta find a good pair of booties now I guess.

[Piggity]

Twas chilly this morn for SD standards. 3-4' but most spots were closing out due to the long lines. Finally found a spot that looked good, sat alongside 40 of my best friends. Caught a set wave that closed out. Called it a day. On the way back to the truck, got a hello from aaron chang as he walked down to the break with his gear. nice guy.

[supermodel159]

Chang is the master. Very cool sighting.

[Piggity]

yup, sorta like a unicorn sighting

[jtran10]

Went out for the first time since being in Mexico this morning. Knee-waist high in Carlsbad, and cold! Ocean was about 20 degrees cooler than Cerritos, and 5 degrees cooler than my last surf day here in December. Thinking about getting some gloves, and maybe some thicker booties or a 4/3.

[Ottime]

Funny, I wear my 4/3 almost any day of the year. Headed north when I got back to town. Surfed some jumbled OH surf. Say 6-8'. More exercise than quality, but it was good to get out for the paddle. Looks like a new swell arrives today. The north coast has been pretty jumbled when I've been in town, but I hear last week it cleaned up for a few days and allowed a decent swell to get surfed.

[Piggity]

I used to have a 4/3 in the rotation but don't use it much, been several years since I've worn it.

Surfed end of last week and again on Saturday, fun 3-5ft sets. Glassy, empty and worth the effort. Decided to skip a meadow or two yesterday morning with a couple buddies, had lots of fun switching it up and putting on skis for a day.