Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

Paddling the LB was so easy after a week on my shorter board. Paddling fitness definitely up.

Good stuff


I feel the need to ski. No surfing yesterday for me. Maybe today, not sure. Might just clean up some boards and sell them on Craigslist to help fund my ski and surf addiction.

[jtran10]

Might just clean up some boards and sell them on Craigslist to help fund my ski and surf addiction.

Any 6'2"s?

Finally looking like I'm gonna head up to Mammoth next weekend (ride pending). Ski bug hit me hard yesterday.

[Piggity]

Yes. 6'2" has seen better days but I also have a 6'3" and 6'4" I'll probably post on CL also. I would probably let the 6'2" go pretty cheap. I also have another 6'2" that is in overall great shape but it needs 1 fin repair to replace the fcs plugs, otherwise the board has been ridden only a few times. That one would also be cheap too so you could get it repaired and still have a good deal on it.

[icelanticskier]

nice jtran

i missed the window today. checked a coupla spots with the dog and it was a bit too small to get me out there. got to work at noon and saw buoy go from 4' @ 5 sec to 4' @ 14 sec. this happened right as i clocked in. worse is that i didn't even check to see what i'd missed till 3pm with darkness closing in.

my bud called saying he was going in for sesh #3 and that seabrook was barreling. fuck

i don't miss many, but this hurts, bad.

maybe it'll still be there morning

rog

[Ottime]

Got back in to the water tonight. Enough wind to keep me behind a point. Chose and uncrowded weak, warbly point. Maybe a foot overhead on the drop and a chest high wall. Sort of. Found the new board to be a lot of fun. Can't wait to get it into clean, lined up HH waves. Next window for me is Saturday.

[icelanticskier]

2 pre work sessions this am made up for missing yesterday. at least that's what i keep telling myself

the gf had an early hospital shift which meant that i had to get the dog to doggie daycare before i was gonna get any surfing in. 715 was the earliest i could drop her off and having to work at 1100, i knew i had to have a flawless gameplan to make shit happen. dropped her off in york maine at 714 and drove 45 minutes straight south to massachusettes and scanned the whole nh seacoast just to make sure i could't save myself some driving. nope. there was a nice waist/chest swell running, but the touch of south in the wind was adding a c hair of texture, unacceptable. my buddy, the one who scored yesterday (and made sure i knew about it, fucker) was waiting for me at the bury.

to be continued...........

k, so i see his car parked on the side of 1a. he not in it. i throw my suit on in literally 2 minutes and run up the beach access path to find a scene out of a movie. all i see are perfect clean waist/chest wedgy peaks for miles.........and just my buddy out. i then join him for what would be a perfect sesh of hero lefts/rights. you could do no wrong. bliss. we would work this spot for about an hour for a warmup for the pavilion. hopped in the cars and drove the coupla minutes to find our next break completely free of humans, again, and the same waist/chest aframe wedges coming in, but this was true bury. dumpy, fast, and fun. unfortunately i had to get to work, so an hour there would make for a coupla hours of pre work sessions. amazing that the whole nh coast only had a total of 3 guys out on a pretty damn good surf morning.

fuck winter, fuck snow

tomorrow?

rog

[Piggity]

Small NW windswell bumped up more overnight, kinda fun 1-3' this morning with peaky conditions at the beach breaks. Caught about a 30 minute sesh cause had to meet my bro for a friends and family sale, christmas shopping on a ski & surf bum's budget.

[icelanticskier]

took the weekend off from the ocean and got back on it today. chest/head with wind on it lightly so chose the rocks. the rocks never disappoints. beautifully lined up boiled (not bowled) and pitchy low tide lefts. pretty damn glassy with a light crowd made for wave after wave.

tomorrow the winds look to be perfect. will be a bit smaller in the waist high range. will probably surf the pipe round the high tide.

SURFING!!!

rog

[Ottime]

There were nice small waves today. And I have the stomach flu. Barely got off the couch. Try caring for a 19mo old from across the room. Great fun.

[icelanticskier]

vibes^^^^^^^^^^for quick recovery

rog

[icelanticskier]

this morning was just as predicted. perfect winds, perfect waves. small, bout waist chest with a light crowd at the pipe. got in the water at 815 knowing that most would be out soon there after for the ole 9-5.

tide was astronomically high even for this spot, but it broke right through due to just nuff size. the rights were great. just fast enough to rip rail to rail in the critical spot, but slow enough where you never had to race it. love that.

i think we're goin log waves for a few days, but more activity looks to be happening late weekend/early next week. water still super warm here for almost mid december.

how bout the left coast?

rog

[Ottime]

got back in today. my window closes until next week, so made the most of it. finally got a small mid period (4.5@15) swell and the winds came up. Bummer. Still, found a point to hide behind and rack up more than expected waves. Liking the new board for that weaker stuff. Still, want to get her on the reef in some decent surf. Today would have been a perfect test. Maybe next week. More snow is on the way.

[icelanticskier]

fun sprocket waves in york this am. didn't expect to get back in today, but the buoy was still holding tough at just over 3' @ 10/11 seconds. glassy 22 degree air temp sea smoke session. had some surprisingly long thigh high rights. just super cruisy and fun for roller coastering down the line on the 5'8.

tomorrow? stranger things have happened

off to work......

rog

[Ottime]

Found an hour before dark for another session last night. Gotta love winter, when marginal days are head high with some plus sets, relatively clean and lengthy paddle backs. Starting to really like this board. Finding it works well enough in the mush, but has surprising hold in the tail, once I figured out the sweet spot. One of these days, I'll get te dimensions and pics up. I think I will be working with my neighbor to rebuild my quiver over the next few years.

[icelanticskier]

sweet ott, glad yer liking that board!

my new (well, about 100 sessions on it since late august) sprocket 5'8 x 20 x 2.35 is pretty similar to my old rocket 5'9 x 19.5 x 2.38 except that the sprocket has a bit more nose rocker, a bit less tail rocker, and a more pulled in tail.

more versatile with that tail as it has a lot better hold when waves are head + than the rocket. @ 20" wide and a good bit o volume in the chest area, the thing is amazing in knee/thigh as well. less tail rocker gives it great get up and go and more nose rocker makes it less catchy. perfect board for round here for me.

wed/thurs could be o'head to well o'head with perfect winds. will set up sprocket as a thruster and see how she goes.

[Piggity]

I'm out, hooked a tip on some crust this weekend resulting in a pretty decent fall and jacked my knee up pretty good. Have a great season guys, you're welcome.

[icelanticskier]

I'm out, hooked a tip on some crust this weekend resulting in a pretty decent fall and jacked my knee up pretty good. Have a great season guys, you're welcome.

sorry to hear piggers. will catch many a winter swell and storm for ya.

rog

[Piggity]

it's all good man, I just have to deal with having old man knees or maybe surgery is something I should finally consider. I'm a bit stubborn though, especially since I have a hut trip planned in about 6 weeks.

[Lee Murian]

I'll be in Encinitas Tuesday late afternoon/Wednesday morning, any waves around??

[Ottime]

Stormy up here but a decent swell is running. Might be some down there

Bummer Pigs. Hope you heal by April so we can tour a bit. Surf has been pretty poor this season (well after an excellent start in Sept), so at least you ain't missing much in the water.

[Piggity]

Hope you heal by April so we can tour a bit.

That's the goal mang, Day 2 of physical therapy is in the books.

Stilltele'n, supposed to bump up a little tomorrow with NW windswell and some groundswell. Rain today so water quality will be an issue, a lot of people ignore the advisories but it's a good idea to choose your spots carefully after it rains.

[icelanticskier]

next 5 days here nh/me/ma look redonky donk. head to head n half clean till sunday. sunday should still be chest. time to eat my wheaties!

rog

[icelanticskier]

some of the most beautiful waves i've seen/surfed all year. 11 feet @ 11/12 seconds and stiff offshores made for perfect clean long rights and lefts. TOUGH paddleouts but once out so worth it.

the 5'8 sprocket set up thruster was perfect. one board quiver, done thinking about adding another one. that pulled in tail held like it was on rails. just lay out the bottom turns and bury it. not skatey in the least.

tomorrow looks to be a bit bigger. fuck yeah!

off to work

rog

[icelanticskier]

yowza.

was the 1st to paddle out this am at the big york beach at 7am.
head and a half sets were frequent and the form and cleanliness was much appreciated.

paddling straight out was near impossible, so went up to the corner along the point for very easy access. was helpful to carefully select the ones that walled up the whole way without closing. caught a few "bombs" that allowed for long layed out bottom turns to big sweeping arcs off the top. just a max of 5 of us out this morning for a mile long beach. not bad.

got back to my car and had a note from friend laura that simply said, "nice right"

more to come......

rog

[Long duc dong]

Some surf out there in Orange County, but I'm too sick to go. I might have to miss a Mammoth trip too. Hopefully some of the rest of you will get the goods, because it' dumping in the Sierra and surfline is calling HB 3-5 without much wind for the day.