Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

Yesterday was excellent. Surfed Scotts until the crowd got too thick. It was large. Maybe DOH, thick, fast, long. The outside was all juice and a bit of a race track for the 6.6. All my waves connected to the inside where it was about 6-10’ walls, crisp, clean and so much fun. Literally took the last one to the beach, making top turns all the way through.

Took a second session at the ledge. That was an adrenaline fest. Maybe a bit too much swell for the reef, except that the right waves peeled 60 yards. Those rides were fast and walled. And it was the kind of day where mistakes would be heavily paid for. I got one that put me in a stand up barrel, partly because my feet were too close together and I was unable to crank a down the line bottom turn, so instead I slowly bottom turned back up into the bowl and pointed and waited and came spitting out. Best part was the other guy out said I looked so casual and confident in the pit. Such a fun fucking session. Never had more than three others in the water.

This morning was super fun. Size is way down. Back on the squash tail. Head high plus at the ledge. Perfect fun sized waves. Inside barrel was working.

Finally getting those good runs of swell and conditions lining up. Things look to pick up again next week. Will need to watch the winds tho.

[whitekingsalmon]

Jajajaaaaa

[Ottime]

In the spirit of the season, can we turn the topic back to wetsuits. We were talking about the advantage of cold water in big wave surfing, as the wetsuit allows you to know you will get back to the surface. It is the perfect floatation device. And the added bouncy during duck diving is not an issue, as no one is fuck diving their big wave guns.

Wetsuits and winter juice.

Another fun sized day today. More swell arrives tomorrow, although with a bit less period. Peaking at 9@17.

[BS720]

Heh, that's true re: ducking guns. I have two Buzz Guns, and you really can't duck either one. The 8'5", kinda almost.

Friday I took the fam to SC to scope out waves. On the way out of town, the same rescue brigade at the south end of the beach. Guy washed up, made it to UC and they called it. There's a photo of them doing their best on the beach, and an ancient longboard in the foreground. Kind of like a skier getting caught out of bounds without a beacon. Sad, and also expected. Sucks to see someone die surfing, though.

[Ottime]

Surprisingly fun today despite the funk.

Bummed about that death at OB. Yesterday was even more powerful, and Thursday looks like we could get even more. Always good to know your limits. Seems like we pretty much skipped fall and are right into winter.

[Ottime]

Thursday was fucking amazing at Scott’s. Not sure how big the big sets were. Maybe DOH. Maybe more. I snapped my 6.6 on Monday out there on a bomb, so I had a chose of 7.6 or 6.4 yesterday. I choose the shorter board, figuring it would be a lot more fun once off the peak and on the inside.

Ended up sitting on the peak, and picking off a bunch of waves in the 4’ OH range. The period was only 14s, so the wave was thick and meaty on the reef, but soft enough on the shoulder that it was not a racing stiff wall. FKNA. 200 yard plus rides from the peak to the channel all the way to the beach. Small enough overall crowd and just 4-5 of us sitting on the peak made for a shit ton of waves. After 3 hours I was spent. Best Mid sized Scotts day I can remember in years. Fuck yeah.

Stayed in my suit for a bit after getting out thinking I might double session. Decided to take my old, tired, satiated body home instead. Didn’t want to change the high I was on.

South winds today, but we have a string of storms coming across the NPAC like I have not seen in several seasons.

It is on west coasters. Go get some. Saturday and Monday look good locally. Might even need to surf in town Monday. Afternoon Swift session.

[liv2ski]

Man, next week has 3 or 4 big days forecasted. I will be watching from the cliffs, as I am to old for that stuff.

[Ottime]

Forecast for Monday is 16.8’@18-19sec. A second swell Thurs 10.8@17s. It is going to be big all next week up here with Monday seeing some 30’ sets. I bet Mavs gets bigger. Time to unpack the balls.

[jackstraw]

Forecast for Monday is 16.8’@18-19sec. A second swell Thurs 10.8@17s. It is going to be big all next week up here with Monday seeing some 30’ sets. I bet Mavs gets bigger. Time to unpack the balls.

Crazy out there. Every pic lately is from "northern" California.

The OB is absolutely horrible. Last time I was there that place just looked scary standing on the beach.

My slug landed home tonight. Good to have him back for a few weeks and we have a swell coming, but nothing like out there.

[PowerWhore7]

30’ sets, that’s it...I sense a yawn or jajajaja coming soon lol 😂

Plus everyone knows all the cool kids break their toe right before the winter & sit on the couch for 6 weeks 🤦🏽♂️ FML

[BS720]

https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/d...entified/41210

[Ottime]

Vibes PW7. I know that feeling well from last year. Although I was out of the water for five months with my ankle. So I win that one.

How does the effect snowboarding? I’d assume about the same. Do as much ankle and calf work that up are permitted to keep those muscles active. I was cleared to walk before anything else. Go get your hike on.

I figure my posts don’t really count until I get a yawn or jajajaja. I mean, the rest of your are pretty cool, but none hold the sway that fishboy does. He is so worldly, and basically the center of the surfing and skiing world (yeah, I know bishop is neither, but in his mind).

Anyway, making some turns with the kiddo this weekend. KW is in great shape with nice winter buff. Driving home today, excited about tomorrow, but also hoping it is well modified in town. I’m sure there will be a bunch getting in over their heads. Also wondering if it will be enough to push New Brighton to head high. When it hits chest high, it starts to resemble Kirra, except it has a bit more rock than sand.

[liv2ski]

30’ sets, that’s it...I sense a yawn or jajajaja coming soon lol ��

Plus everyone knows all the cool kids break their toe right before the winter & sit on the couch for 6 weeks ����♂️ FML

I broke the toe next to the big one a few years back. Taped it up and just made do. Healed bent, but toes look fucked up anyways so tape it up, take a few Advil and go

[Ottime]

Solid surf in town today. I grabbed three waves Swift. Didn’t really want to go out, but my buddy insisted. Had that nervous stomach feeling while suiting up. Felt tired from skiing with the kid this weekend and driving. Looking for excuses. Jumped off of rocks and cleared the inside soup with no incident. Paddled the long paddle up the back of the wave and settled in at the peak. There were about 6 of us out there. Not wanting to take one on the head, I kept outside and east of the peak. Saw a set coming and paddled how I would normally. I was not up and was not really ready to grab one yet. The thing lined up perfectly with me, I heard a hoot, and knew I had to go. It was big. A few seconds to get to the bottom big. Moving at high speeds big. Made it through the first racing section and made my one turn. Some how that set me up for a barrel in the middle section. Dude on the shoulder said I was standing straight up in the tube and had over three feet of head room. I didn’t bother looking around. The final section was smaller, but a fast, lined up, thick ten foot wall. Finished my wave at the peak of the next surf break. Unreal. I didn’t wait five minutes for that wave. And I was done. Needed no more. But I was not in a good spot to paddle in, so back out to the peak. Caught a ten footer (face) of no real consequence. Grabbed a third, not as big as the first and no barrel, but I was able to ride it more aggressively and make more turns. Straighten out as it sped up on the inside, avoid the lip and got myself into the cove. Me and board both in one piece. Good times. Looking forward to tomorrow.

Saw BS720 up on the cliff. Did you get some?

Got my Evolved board today. Looks pretty nice for $310 delivered. They were slow to ship (they actually forgot to set the pick up date), so that kind of blew, but overall worth the price. I’ll see how it surfs when things drop another 10 or more feet.

[liv2ski]

You're Crazy, but I am glad you caught that 1st wave. That memory will stay with you for awhile.

[whitekingsalmon]

Yawn... our surf house in pavones is open... already full thru the end of jan..I guess people love to surf the 2nd longest left in the world.. just bring your board n a few surf trunks... new this year we have a boat to go fishing when swell is down.

[Ottime]

^^^link? So we can check it out.

Still big out there. Bump back up today. Not that it was needed. Scotts was plenty big yesterday.

[Ottime]

Anyway, been quite a run up here. Lots of use of the 8’4”. I can’t recall the last time I got this many big days in a row. Monday was in town, the others at Scotts. I think Wednesday was actually the biggest with the fore runners of the Thursday swell. Dropping quickly today. Gonna be under 10’ by afternoon. Looks like another solid bump on Sunday. Smaller tho. Only forecasting 8@17.

Grabbed a few picks of smaller sets from yesterday before I went in. Maybe I’ll even post some stoke up here. Or maybe I’ll just jajajajaj beach house pavones point breaks blah blah boardshorts y’all.

[Long duc dong]

Blackie's and the lower jetties have been really fun in Newport the last couple of days.

[Ottime]

Been a good run. South wind came up mid morning, but I had to be at the DMV by 9:50, so I was out before it blew. Been a good run the last few weeks. Things get more moderate tomorrow. I’ll be at the snow before the next long period swell hits on Friday.

Got a session on the 6.0 Evolved on Saturday. Still need more time to make an assessment, but it is solid deal at $310 delivered. I think the tail has a bit more float than I might find ideal for the waves I want to surf it in, it could have that foam shifted up front of center, and the rails could soften a bit more quickly in the transition from the tail, and could harden a bit more under the fin boxes, but over all it is a decent board. Need to get it out in more and smaller surf to get a good review for it. But at 42% of the cost of a CI, I’m sold on giving it a try.

[jackstraw]

https://www.instagram.com/p/Br5fSRCF...=1wd3wgg3zb99m

Nat got some and more. OB

[BS720]

Happy New Years you fucks. Hope everyone is getting this fat swell this week where they can.

[Ottime]

Happy new year. Just back in town after a week of cold and fast family ski and the surf is still rocking. So much fun out there today. The Evolved surfs well. At least it can find barrels and show fins through the lip. Tomorrow looks good before the south winds return.

[Long duc dong]

Great mid-day session in Newport today. Surfed right around 30th or 31st. The crowd with thick right at the jetty, and the good peaks were packed, but I found a B+ head high peak around 31st with only me and a couple of other guys. It was peaky with REALLY nice walls. Best session in a while. The good peaks near the 28th street jetty were awesome, but a snake fest. Luckily everyone near me was pretty mellow and respectful.

[Long duc dong]

Looks like the guy is okay.

https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/s...al-coast/42650