I am with you Ott, I live for those first NW swells that can come in October. October and November are so damn nice down here. Good surf, cool but sunny days, I call it locals summer. Can't wait.
I am with you Ott, I live for those first NW swells that can come in October. October and November are so damn nice down here. Good surf, cool but sunny days, I call it locals summer. Can't wait.
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Saturday and Sunday were lots of fun at river jetties. Head high +, but it was the in-between sets that were the best, the biggest ones were walled. Yesterday evening I went down to Trestles and got a late session at uppers, which was a blast. The water is still warm down there. I'm hoping to do the same thing today, but we will see. It looks like a very good run of swell here.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Surfed in the fog this morning. South filled in a bit more. Avoid crowds again. And it is such a fun little wave. A bit bigger today at waist to belly button. Long as log rides with a few hollow sections and a lot of nose ridding sections. But still a bit crucial. Fun ass logging.
I imagine there were some better waves in town today. Maybe even the western points. Enjoyed hanging with my buddy who took up surfing at 43. He has almost a year under his belt. Fucking kook. Kind of impressed with his progress.
Last edited by Ottime; 09-11-2018 at 04:30 PM.
Couple of craptacular shots from the last couple of days in The OC 😁
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Nice day to surf in North County. South swell in the water pushing out head high sets. Water is still really warm and just a beautiful day in San Diego.
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Nice PW7!!
Orange County has been pumping for a while now, although it has now dropped off quite a bit. I don't think I can squeeze a session in today, but after the last 10 days or so that is just fine. I hope the rest of you left coast folks got some of this. The water was still pretty warm in San Clemente on Sunday, easily trunkable.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Headed to Long Beach for training staying in Redondo by the Marina. Any advice on a local shop to rent a real long board (not a foamy) for an evening or two and a nearby wave thats not too heavy? Wont have a car but will have skateboard and okay walking a ways. You guys still trunking it? I have a shorty wetsuit I could bring.
I havent surfed in almost two years stoked to get my gills wet!
Bunny Don't Surf
Have you seen a one armed man around here?
When are you going?
Redondo typically does not pick up a whole lot of south swell, but it might well be rideable for a mellow session. I would bring a shorty as water temps have dropped into the high 60's in north OC, probably slightly colder up there. I trunked it this weekend, but that might be done soon and that was in south OC. I wish I could help more, I don't really know surf shops up there. I would guess that the Hermosa area might work, depending on exactly where you are staying. There is lots of beachbreak around, so you will probably be able to find something non-heavy.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Get there monday fly out friday. Looks like the breakwater is the big wave spot and everything N is sandbars. Im good with sanbars lol. Shorty will be in my bag. Will google closest surf shops. I think our hotel has loaner bikes. Hope there is a bump to ride and it isnt too much of a hassle.
Bunny Don't Surf
Have you seen a one armed man around here?
^*** don’t know about shops, but just south of the beach is a long board spot. Starts with an H I think. But it might be more of a N swell spot. The north end of Resondo picks up a real small about of S swell (of i recall right from whe my buddy lived there). Not great, but enough to get wet.
Surfed Monday up here. These past few swells have been okay, but the wind has been pretty on, so that limits everyone to town. Tweaked my back a bit Friday, so missed the beat three days of swell. Ultimately, im more interested in the NPAC and focusing on getting shit done otherwise. Almost done w the yard terrace project. Fuck. That is going on 7 years now.
^^^^^ran out of diary pages??? Hey guy going to southbay... I lived in manhattan for a while..go south on the beach bike path down to Hermosa pier...lots of shops there to get what you need... there's surf all along from El Porto in Manhattan down to the Redondo breakwall in front of charthouse... get you some.
Does this count?
https://www.instagram.com/p/BoNv7t6h...=raddaddanchuk
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www.skevikskis.com Check em out!
Hell yeah it does.
Dear Diary,
Have not been surfing much. Poor small conditions. Saturday morning was nice before the crowd arrive. Super inconsistent and super cold, but a long period shoulder high bliss. Paddled our and pick one off right away. Paddling back out, grabbed one wide and got so barreled. Took 45 minutes to get the next three, but super fun, super clean, super duper waves. As much as I loathe the south swell, sometimes it can be a surprise. Then 8 plus paddled our and there was no point. Went home and ate eggs.
Waiting for Nw next week perhaps. Froth.
I laugh at people counting waves.... jajaja
Dear diary, Surf was excellent today. Far exceeded expectations. Showed a buddy a new spot, and he had a great time. Chill crowd. Surprisingly plenty to go around. Sounds like it was even better yesterday. Guess it was worth getting shit done, as NPAC is waking up. Oh, and I pity those who have to count to five.
First north swell of the season is about to hit Hawaii. Not supposed to be huge but it's the first opening day of the winter. Nothing like waking up early to some Aleutian juice.
Love opening days. Enjoy. Looks like my favorite slab will open for the season Thursday. Until then, I’ll just need stay content with some steep, moderate sized, tropi swell. Couple places around here only wake up when it drops east of due south. Tomorrow should be fun. I’ve blocked the morning out on my calendar.
The cane swell hit today, a day later than expected, but unfortunately I'm too busy. I might get in a dawn patrol session tomorrow. I hit Trestles on Saturday but the swell really had not arrived yet, so it was a bit of a bust. I hope the rest of you guys are getting some.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Pretty great up here today. There was a bit of a southerly breeze early, but that was gone by mid day and super glassy this afternoon. Got to surf he Singularity at Wolf’s Mound. So much fun with a steep 13 second period. Long, fast, hollow and gnarly. Love that wave. Surfed it twice today.
It looks like it is dropping already on the buoys. But it should stick around the next few days in one way or another. NW slated for Later in the week looks primo fun.
I fucking got some on Friday. My wife went through an induction, didn't dilate, then we moved on to a section(I'm crunching). I snipped the chord, and they told me to go back to my wife because she wasn't doing well. She's fine now, but blood loss was impressive. This baby is fucking perfect, and now I want to be a perfect parent. I'm humbled. You could take all my guns from me right now, as long as I have my wife and baby, I'm good.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
Hey man, did you run out of diary pages? Congrats dude. Now begins the best work of your life. Sleep whenever you can for the next six months. And thereafter. This will change you. And best of luck.
Congrats BS720!!
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Fuck you. I laugh at people counting babies. I'm off to Pavones, Everyone knows there aren't waves in Comifornia. JAJAJAJAJAJAJAJAJA.
Thans, Long Dick. I'm an incredibly happy dude right now. Looks like we are having opening day on Friday, pending wind and, well, nothing. Hope you ungrateful SoCal fucks get your shit pushed in this weekend. Looks like there's plenty to go around.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
Yesterday was fun from 2nd Lot to Taravel on the drift. Several spots with nice peaks. Parking lot at Sloat on the way back, ran into one of the kids from the very first City Surf Project class. All smiles and stoke.
Looks like we are into a solid swell pattern. The spots around the corner have been pretty dormant lately, and this should change that. I love this time of year!!!
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
Oceanside Harbor yesterday morning. Super Fun Peaky Not very crowded Great time of year
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