Sounds like the surf is consistently better up there than in San Diego Ottime. Just ordered a new suit for the fall season when it is cool in the morning. Now I just need some surf to motivate me to go.
Sounds like the surf is consistently better up there than in San Diego Ottime. Just ordered a new suit for the fall season when it is cool in the morning. Now I just need some surf to motivate me to go.
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Yeah, but SD is a lot warmer.
Saturday I got out early and paddled out into fog trying to score an elusive wave. A few really good ones came through. I got my most solid wave since breaking my ankle. But there was a lot of waiting and sets hitting the reef wrong or one wave sets. Ultimately a little disappointing. Also did not surf all that well for the most part. Was just off a little.
Today was much smaller. Chest high. Maybe a head high wave or two. I had my best performance since breaking my ankle. Was on my game. Still getting up awkwardly on a few, and having to shift a foot, but mostly just on it and going. Also kept lining up waves even tho it was shifty beach break. Felt really good to have a solid session. Still have a long way to go, but that felt awesome.
Going long boarding with my son and an old buddy tomorrow. Life is good.
Swell gone. Perfect little knee high rollers to get out on the last Monday of summer.
Line ups thin out next week.
Busy in the water last night, but empty today. Think most people gave up on summer on Cape Ann. Works for me...water is warm and I can enjoy two weeks before school starts back up.
Got my first Atlantic waves today at Brigantine, where my old Philly buddy’s mother-in-law has a beach house.
I managed to catch it with some swell and offshore winds, but it was super shifty with not much punch. Also I was forced to rent a soft top that didn’t really like to turn. It’s weird that the shop there doesn’t at least buy a couple cheap epoxy pop outs to rent like most shops do.
I’m definitely a long way from California. It’s super weird that they block off long sections for swimmers and don’t allow surfers in that zone. Funny how different beach culture is in NJ. You’re supposed to have tokens for beach use as well. Weird!
The summer of my discontent continues in San Diego with dribbly surf forecast for the week.![]()
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Biked out to rockaway for kicks today but there’s literally nothing to do but ride inside whitewater 20 feet to the beach with 30 other people on wavestorms. Glad I made it out the other day.
Last weekend was surfable here, chest high with decent shape on Saturday. Sunday was a bit smaller, but still doable. The water is still in the low 70's, which is awesome. It's flat now, but should pick up in the next couple of days.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Pretty fun at the beach break today. 2-4 foot faces with a little zip on the take off.
To bad I dropped my board and dinged it on the curb.![]()
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
^^^^^dooh.
Done that. On a Jetty. But you are an adult. What happened?
We had some surprisingly fun small NW up here earlier this week. Got to surf my favorite slab that broke my ankle last September. Felt to good to get back on it.
Only problem is the first day I was rolling with a log and an egg due to the small nature of the swell. But this particular reef was spitting out shoulder high barrels. Got a ton of waves, but wished I had the 6.0.
Went back the next day. Brought the egg just in case. As I went to pull my 6.0 out of the bag I see the tight pin of my 6.6. Oooops. Another day on the egg. Thing gets so many waves it is now banned from there.
Fun to get surf when the report is saying it is flat. Even more fun to get barreled.
I was just setting the board down, nose resting on the curb and it slipped from my grasp. $65 later, it will be all good. That means I get to surf the Instigator today. I hope I am in good enough shape to do so.
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Fun NW widswell the last couple of days here. The water is still 70. Surfed with the froghouse guys today, that is always fun.
Drove from Point Reyes to Seaside Oregon on the PCH/101...been on the road 2 weeks now & scored some legit surf & some dribbly surf but one thing is for sure, it was fucking cold everywhere 😁
Here are some craptacular pics
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Sorry that you left coasters got such cold water out there. Must suck to have the surf all to yourself and not have to share it with a bunch of great white sharks like we've got over on this side now. I'm beginning to think I moved to Australia instead of North Kakalaki..
Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!
Whitey likes the cold water. A few have been sighted at New Brighton and Waddell recently.
My favorite ledge is crowd controlled by a sheer cliff and great whites trolling the area. Although I’ve only seen one on the reef one time.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
^no those are all from Oregon...
I didn’t really get any photo worthy waves until OR, I surfed Salmon Creek & Goat Rock in NorCal but it was a futile effort.
Nice to be back in the 75 degree water though 😁
^^Ok. I was gonna say, all those hours of homework in vain. By the way, never seen goat rock doable. Except maybe the right south of the rock. Nice trip, nice pics. Anything at the northern terminus?
No, just that he started at Pt. Reyes so I was giving that as an example of a sharky spot. I have not been to Pt. Reyes in years, but I don't remember it looking like that at all. Pt. Reyes is really beautiful as I recall, but I have not been there in many years and I would not recognize it.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
My bad, I misunderstood. Beautiful pics, especially #1!.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
I took a similar road trip many years ago. Love that coastline. Especially Oregon.
Did you bother stopping around PT Arena. Used to head up that way for big swells. Met Doc Reneker in the line up in the cove one day. Surf was running 20-25’ on the peak, wrapping a few hundred yards before dropping to 12’ way on the inside. Such a killer big wave spot. Best big day of my life.
The prior day sets were only breaking across the outside. I watched from the pier before deciding to go to Whisky Creek where it was only double overhead. I watched as four guys bobbed way outside. Finally a wave was caught. It looked 40’ from where I was standing and the guy had to make speed with a huge top turn arc in order to make the second section. There was so much water loving that the rip current along the pilings was undulating six feet. Insane. Kudos to those hellmem, whom ever they were that day.
Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.
Yeah, I don’t really tide above 15’ anymore. Once the skiing bug bit me again an decade or so ago, I’ve lost some of my big wave skill.
Kind of a miss on the current swell up here. Can’t wait for autumn to start.
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