Anyone else get some today...?

[WaistDeepGroomers]

Two days of surf in the past week is a minor miracle for July in New England. Glassy, super fun morning. Got a little fooled by the 1.3 ft @ 13 secs forecast in thinking it'd be head high, got waist/stomach instead, but still super fun. Need to remember to bring the 8'0" foamie this time of year though!

[Ottime]

Did ya get brushed by Chris? I’m on the other side of the pond hoping to get a little.

1.3@13 would typically show as 1.7 foot waves at exposed breaks. And very few breaks in Maine are exposed. So, unless you are really short, about knee to thigh high.

Swell Height * Period = wave height.

Bathymetry plays a role here, and can help pump up or diminish waves as much as shadowing or focusing. That is why the wave at O is significantly bigger when breaking off the (or near) the rocks as opposed to waves that break 400 yards north. With a south swell, it would seem that the less shadowed area to the north would be bigger. But the sea bottom contours make the wave bigger in the more shadowed zone.

[WaistDeepGroomers]

Did ya get brushed by Chris? I’m on the other side of the pond hoping to get a little.

1.3@13 would typically show as 1.7 foot waves at exposed breaks. And very few breaks in Maine are exposed. So, unless you are really short, about knee to thigh high.

Swell Height * Period = wave height.

Bathymetry plays a role here, and can help pump up or diminish waves as much as shadowing or focusing. That is why the wave at O is significantly bigger when breaking off the (or near) the rocks as opposed to waves that break 400 yards north. With a south swell, it would seem that the less shadowed area to the north would be bigger. But the sea bottom contours make the wave bigger in the more shadowed zone.

We did! Super fun bump. I've got a little notebook from most of.my sessions up here and we had one day last fall with a 1.5 feet at 12 seconds forecast and it was overhead and perfect. But I didn't check the buoys to get the actual swell from that day. Looks like a pass of short period swell early next week as well. I'm astonished anytime you can get on any kind of board and wave this time.of.year.

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[alev]

Good Maine bump. Came in bigger than expected. "shoulda got there earlier". little texture in the evening from some longish period waves. Wanted to get on the fish but the log was the preferred vehicle of choice. Any waist high waves in July is ideal!

[Long duc dong]

Congrats on the baby coming!

Head high but a bit walled in Newport today. The water is in the low 70's.

[Ottime]

We did! Super fun bump. I've got a little notebook from most of.my sessions up here and we had one day last fall with a 1.5 feet at 12 seconds forecast and it was overhead and perfect. But I didn't check the buoys to get the actual swell from that day. Looks like a pass of short period swell early next week as well. I'm astonished anytime you can get on any kind of board and wave this time.of.year.

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Had to be more than a single 1.5@12. But, it is possible to combo up several small swells into bigger waves. Just not overly likely. Buoy readings may show 1.5@12, when there are several different small swells in the water. If angles are complimentary, it can boost the wave height. Adding two or three small swells (that alone would produce thigh high surf) can, at times, create much larger surf.

Also, most buoys only report the swell producing the most energy. If the 12s swell is locally produced and very consistent, it would show on the buoy instead of a 3@15 swell that was inconsistent and pushing less energy per time period. Combo a 3@15 with a 1.5@12, and the surf could be pushing up to head high.

Of course, combo swells can also diminish wave heights. And at other times, buoy readings can look much higher than what surf one gets. Often due to shadowing. But at times they just get confused.

For instance, you could have a 6’@6s and a .7’@15s in the water. Assume you are shadowed from both. The 6s won’t wrap in, but the 15s will. It will lose size, so the beach sees some 6” lines. But the buoy reads the swell height from the wind swell and the period from the ground swell and shows 6@15 or combos the height and averages the period showing 6.7@11. Both of those one would assume chest to head plus at the beach.

On the pacific coast, the CDIP and spectral buoys are by far the best. The spectral will show you where each bit of energy is coming from. Not sure if those are available on the Atlantic. Perhaps because you are not as likely to have multiple swells in the water. Out west, it is rare to have just a single swell in the water, and typically there are three or more at any given time.

Gonna be out that way in a week plus. Hope to see enough for a log session.

[Long duc dong]

Shoulder high+ and okay yesterday at uppers. The water is super warm.

How is France Ott? Nuts I would imagine.

[alev]

Any recs for Bocas or Puerto Viejo in CR? Heading down tomorrow for two weeks. Non surf trip, and done some surf research, but hoping to get a few waves.

[BS720]

Thanks LDD!

Bad time of the year for Bocas. Others may chime in, but Bocas is typically December to April. On the other hand, if you want smaller waves, it may be the right time. Puerto Viejo I can't speak to, just be careful there.

[Ottime]

Shoulder high+ and okay yesterday at uppers. The water is super warm.

How is France Ott? Nuts I would imagine.

Nuts.

Bastille Day followed by yesterday. What a weekend for this country.

And the forecast is for a 1.7-2m@15 for tomorrow into Wednesday. And offshore through mid day. And I found real surfboard to rent from Max. Good times.

[Ottime]

Any recs for Bocas or Puerto Viejo in CR? Heading down tomorrow for two weeks. Non surf trip, and done some surf research, but hoping to get a few waves.

PV has a great reef break when there is swell. It can be flat flat flat, then pumping, then flat. Pretty tight reef slab take off zone, and it can get crowded.

I don’t know if any other waves in that area, but I could see the advantage of finding a beach break if available. While the reef is a great wave, it can be like a busy day at Lowers. Some like that, but crowds bother me.

And what bs720 said. Some sketch folks in that area. Lots of coke heads and a few pirates.

[WaistDeepGroomers]

Had to be more than a single 1.5@12. But, it is possible to combo up several small swells into bigger waves. Just not overly likely. Buoy readings may show 1.5@12, when there are several different small swells in the water. If angles are complimentary, it can boost the wave height. Adding two or three small swells (that alone would produce thigh high surf) can, at times, create much larger surf.

Also, most buoys only report the swell producing the most energy. If the 12s swell is locally produced and very consistent, it would show on the buoy instead of a 3@15 swell that was inconsistent and pushing less energy per time period. Combo a 3@15 with a 1.5@12, and the surf could be pushing up to head high.

Of course, combo swells can also diminish wave heights. And at other times, buoy readings can look much higher than what surf one gets. Often due to shadowing. But at times they just get confused.

For instance, you could have a 6’@6s and a .7’@15s in the water. Assume you are shadowed from both. The 6s won’t wrap in, but the 15s will. It will lose size, so the beach sees some 6” lines. But the buoy reads the swell height from the wind swell and the period from the ground swell and shows 6@15 or combos the height and averages the period showing 6.7@11. Both of those one would assume chest to head plus at the beach.

On the pacific coast, the CDIP and spectral buoys are by far the best. The spectral will show you where each bit of energy is coming from. Not sure if those are available on the Atlantic. Perhaps because you are not as likely to have multiple swells in the water. Out west, it is rare to have just a single swell in the water, and typically there are three or more at any given time.

Gonna be out that way in a week plus. Hope to see enough for a log session.

Oh god, don't make me feel like I understand even less about forecast in! [Puts head in sand]. Some fantastic logging the past two nights. So much goddamn fun! I need to quit this shortboard obsession until we get some 'cane swell. Hoping our recent trend of surfable waves continues for ya!

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[Ottime]

I love getting out on the log when things are micro. I see no point in groveling in small surf, when I can have way more fun getting a shit ton of waves just cruising.


It takes decades to get it right half the time from the buoys.

Don’t get me started on summer south swells in Santa Cruz, and how hard it is to use buoy readings to determine the surf.

Surfed this morning at Place Horizons. Swell from regents of Chris. It hit pretty hard yesterday, but when I looked at the flags around 7am, it was already onshore. Turns out it went offshore from 9-11am. I got to the beach in the afternoon, w/o a board and saw solid lines even with the moderate cross on shore. Got some body surfing in, but no board.

Walrus, in Cap Ferret rents actual epoxy board, so I picked on up just before they closed at 7pm. I wanted to get a sunset surf, but dinner w the family went a bit late, so I saved it for the morning.

Swell was solid at 6am. Winds we blowing pretty hard cross off shore. Head high to a little overhead, 11-12s period. Winds slowly turned straight off shore and lightened as the swell dropped. At noon I called it. Still chest high with occasional bigger set. Pretty clean and lined up. Super fun to get a real surf session while on a non surf trip.

Might take the boy out on a soft top long board in the morning. Expecting it to have dropped to knee to waist high. Kind of my favorite size to talk about.

I’ll be in Maine in ten days. Hope to get out there as well.

Surfed a Mod Pod (??) today. Any of you looks know your model boards? I found the AM to be a bit corky in the tail. It was great in the flats, but did not want to drive off the tail for me. Just wanted to skid.

I know I could get used to it, but does anyone know of a similar board that has less foam, and more bite, in the tail?

[SumJongGuy]

I was at Kure' in NC today. Great boogie waves. 2-3 footers all afternoon. Too crowded for a fun shape. .glad I left it at home. Need to air bnb a beach house and.catch it early morning or evening again now that the kids.are.teens.

[SumJongGuy]

Saw three people pulled out in five minutes by the lifeguard at wrightsville right after I showed my 15 year old How to spot the rip current. Heard 3 people died along the beaches we were at last weekend. Not a good weekend to be out without a board.

[Ottime]

While I was in Cap Ferret, they had a very limited area that bathers were restricted to. The tide changes about 12 feet there, with maximum swings of over 16 feet. That, along with the Arcachon Bay creates massive side shore currents, and rip currents when the surf is up.

The day the Chris swell first showed with 15s periods, I did not want to go beyond being able to touch the sand without a board. The current was insane.

Even on the smaller days, it felt wise to stay near shore.

The day I got out to surf, the current was strong to the south. Whenever I got a solid long right, I found it wise to ride o the sand and jog back up. Fighting the current was just a back killer.

[Long duc dong]

Several feet overhead and clean today at uppers. The water is around 70. Hope the rest of you guys are getting some.

[BS720]

Several feet overhead and clean today at uppers. The water is around 70. Hope the rest of you guys are getting some.

You whore.

[jorion]

My bud told me the jetty was barreling yesterday evening. I didn’t even think that was possible. I haven’t been in the water in a month, need to get back at it.

[jtran10]

Will be down in socal from Friday through the following weekend. This coming weekend will be in Venice area. Anywhere worth surfing in that zone, or should I just wait until I get down to SD on Sunday afternoon?

[Ottime]

Venice picks up plenty of south swell. Silver Strand can be a pain w locals, but not a huge pain. The point there also can do okay. There should be the tail end of this swell.

Friends at home say it is pumping in SC. Lots of NW Wind tho, so the special place won’t be working. Makes me feel okay about missing this swell. I hate missing the special place when it breaks.

[jackstraw]

Venice picks up plenty of south swell. Silver Strand can be a pain w locals, but not a huge pain. The point there also can do okay. There should be the tail end of this swell.

Friends at home say it is pumping in SC. Lots of NW Wind tho, so the special place won’t be working. Makes me feel okay about missing this swell. I hate missing the special place when it breaks.

Yeah, it is pumping. My kid is taking summer classes and had mid-terms this week so he has been sitting this one out for the most part also.

[Long duc dong]

Surfed a spot in the Crystal Cove area yesterday that almost never breaks, it takes an overhead South to make it work, but it almost never blows out. 150 yard lefts off a Rocky point with only 4 guys out. It's in a state park and you really can't check it without paying the 15 dollar fee so it almost never has a crowd. A rare treat.

[Ottime]

Sounds like a delicacy.

Surfed LS yesterday on a small, but decent enough little ME swell. Fun to get in both sides of the Atlantic. Headed down now for another session before turning in the rental NSP 9.6. Man that board blows. But it still slides across water.

Tried to get in touch w Rog, but my phone is failing at text since coming back from France. Thanks ATT.

Looks like slim pickings this week. Glad I got a few.

[whitekingsalmon]

Maybe next time call him.... just saying..... lombok going off recently