^^^^where are the crowds? That looks so fun right now. And warm.
^^^^where are the crowds? That looks so fun right now. And warm.
SF CDIP showing 13.7@17. Spectral showing 8.3@16.6. Winds from the ENE @ 4-8. Mavs.... Two long period swells running out there and another showing up tomorrow. Oh, dear, god. This surf season is way better than this now season.
Got pics up from a decent sized day from the end of January. Here.
The peanut gallery is like, "yeah, what else you got?"
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That was the Volcom pipe pro so the crowds were on the beach
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Last night after work still had some punch. Slightly smaller and less perfect as Thursday night but still fun. Head high on avg sets and overhead on bigger sets and only slight texture.
Lucky timing on that shot. I was actually playing with my son in the field when I saw the set coming in. Grabbed the camera and accidentally focussed on the touristas. In the end, I kind of liked the way it came out.
I git some very fun surf Thursday night. Rode the 7'6". Surfed with five others. Got one wave, started paddling back, caught a second before I got far. Combined I was over 300 yards from the first take off. Got to love that kind of stuff. It was a bit warbled, and not perfect, but damn. 8-10 foot faces reeling for hundreds of yards.
Went out looking this morning and saw nothing but suck. But the snow started up, so I can't complain much.
South OC and far North SD were insanely good tonight. Solid combo swell pushing consistent 2-3ft Overhead A-frames. I needed that
I surfed my local break on fri night and it was building. Really fun and only 2-3 guys out. Split for mammoth early sat morning so missed the main swell but did get 3 hours of powder laps Sun morning before meeting up with the family. Heard it was huge in SD but blown out and a bit crazy. Been checking the scripps cam all week while up here.
South swell is pumping here in town. Long wait in between the sets, but when they show, they are solid. Best waves I had in a month. Glad I avoided the crowds. Gonna try to get out for some pics tomorrow afternoon.
This week looks fun down there. Enjoy, and post up some stoke! I am out of the water for the next three months!
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
Delaminated patellar tendon. At least it's not September! Time to get boards ordered for this winter. Thanks, man.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
Figures. Heading to Troncones Mexico for 5 days on Friday and bruise/cracked a rib this morning. Pretty nice morning out. Nothing big, just banged my board on the rib and its definitely sore. Damn...
He who has the most fun wins!
May consider a 2mm jacket, just for protection. Couldn't hurt(if you will).
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
It's a trend. My back spasmed yesterday morning as I put my son in his high chair. Been tight ever since. Doubt I'll be able to get in the water this week.
Comish, at least you are headed to Troncones. Surf there is meh, unless you get a solid south for the bay just north, or real broken up peaks for the beach break. relax and enjoy the beach life. Kick back a few, and grab seafood.
Gotta say, I quite enjoyed Troncones last fall. Uncrowded, Saladita is like a left Malibu and what isn't to like about that. Troncones Point isn't anything amazing, but I would still take it over an average beach break... At least its not 40 of your best friends as in Costa Rica at any good point/reef break.
He who has the most fun wins!
I have seen some shots of Troncones, and it looks pretty damn fun. I'm not sure how consistent it is, but a shoulder high reverse Malibu without a million people out sounds incredible.
There are some good shots of both Saladita and Troncones point on wannasurf. It makes me want to surf both of those spots, although I would not plan a trip there without more info on how consistently they break. One thing I will say about Costa Rica is that the Jaco/Playa Hermosa area is super consistent. You pretty much know you will get shoulder high beachbreaks, and it will probably be almost head high.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
ah, waking up too late i see. CR breaks, even the great ones are just you more than likely so long as you surf from 1st light till 645am or 7am at the latest. then the hordes hit it till 10 or so, then more for you from 11-1. at least thats' how it's worked for me on both the caribbean and pacific coasts.
new hampshire on the other hand is downright scary uncrowded most days of the year if you do it right. this morning was just another example of country club small yet perfectly formed perfection. supposed to last a good week or so. been a pretty good year at the right tide/spot.
some 80 degree water would be nice to have again tho
rog
Damn guys, hope the achilles and back heal up quick. I'm usually bummed about a delammed board never mind an achilles.
So I'm officially not a surfer anymore. I'm not logging enough water time so I have to give up my surf badge. That said, how dumb would it be if I cleaned up my surf wax scraper and doubled it as a ski wax scraper? I lost my scraper and this seems like the next logical substitute before sliding on snow this weekend.
Heh, when I put my foot through my Firewire's rail, my first thought was, FUCK, this is going to be expensive. When I realized I couldn't walk, I realized the tab just went up substantially.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
nuther fine day cowhampshire surf. waist/chest/shoulder glassy fun all alone this am from 7-9 at a very well formed beach break.
winds on it now, but should kick back round for more morning fun. looks to be fun stuff through till friday next week. perfect weather too.
heal well^^^^^^
rog
the small fun swell continues.......
busy morning so decided to wait till later and let the weekend "crowds" paddle their arms off. about noon or so the swell started to bump up and period lengthen a bit. what was 2.6 @ 8 became 4.3 @ 10 by 4pm and stayed in that range all afternoon. checked some spots. wind was a bit on it causing a slight bit o sickness, but then i drove by rye rocks and what do ya know? no one out on a sunny saturday afternoon with shoulder high sets and a shallow boiling rock reef all for me. no one else would join. love that. conditions were MUCH cleaner than the beaches.
amazing how easy it is to score empty waves in the most obvious places while hundreds of cars with boards drive by constantly. "hmmm, only one guy out, must not be very good."
more tomorrow......
rog
AM/PM sessions today. Summer is coming. Trunked it with a vest on this evening. Saw the eclipse for 20 minutes or so before the marine layer came back and covered it up.
Last week has been fun. No huge swell but consistent waist/chest high surf for several days with some better waves occasionally. My buddy bought a 7'8 1972 G&S single fin off craigslist on Friday for $100 as a summer board and I spent some time on it this morning. Pretty fun riding something old and totally different.
^^Nice. Pretty early for the trunking to start. Last year was a shitshow. Soon as I heal up and a southie rolls in, I'm heading down the coast.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
nuther coupla waist/chest/shoulder days here nh makes 5 out of 5 with the best yet to come, especially wednesday when we could see head/o head drops and continued favorable winds.
funny that today, a monday was the busiest at the rocks even compared to the weekend. 5 or 6 of us today, busy.
the 5'9 rocket continues to impress. switched the stock fins to k 2.1's. amazing the difference. loosened the board up yet added a ton o drive.
not a bad spring so far........
rog
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