Got in a rare mid-day session today. Surfed the 32-36 area in Newport. Waist high, occasionally pushing chest high, but with a decent shoulder in some places. Only a few people out. I wore my long sleeve spring and was fine. I just got a 6'8" funboard for the small days and it was a blast. Even though I always surf beefy boards the extra-glide on this one was great, even the waist high ones were fun. I forgot how much fun a small day with decent shape and no one out can be when you are on a fat board.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
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