Anyone else get some today...?

[subtle plague]

i have just returned home from getting some. I will post some pictures at one point or another, but right now im juts here to say that i got some. and it was nice and glassy and fortunately ony 1% of the people in the california shot. "Crowds" ranged from me (yeah solo session when my wife had some nasty green and yellow coloured stuff in her sinuses) to 8 (very tirsome ) and waves from shoulder to overhead which was nice, but i could have used more overhead days especially when it got "flat" at the end. still a "flat" shoulderhigh reef break is something most people would kill for here.
I found my new favourite wave in front of pristine primary rainforest on an uninhabitated island. such a great left. we only got it at headhigh sets and glass or 2mph onshore, but even then I believed the local guy when he said what would happen at 4-5 foot perfection. And that it would become a scary Hawaiian style death wave at 8-10 foot.
Another observation: Boat trip people sometimes surf worse than i do! But apparently they have money, more than I do. And a bigger ego because i would never ever go on a boat trip with my skill level. Generally I'm still one of the bad surfers in an Indo line up. But it helps when everybody is sharing waves. On a side note: Riding a a 10foot dingy 30 miles out to the open sea through a tropical squall is less fun than riding a deafening fisherboat back at 7mph, although it takes only 1/3 of the time

I met cool people, saw and felt cool wild animals like Orang Utangs (which threw three finger thick branches at us because we annoyed him in his jungle), surfed with turtles and found out that tobacco water soaked socks help to avoid more intimate contact with leeches.
all in all my best surftrip so far. And my wife is hooked as well because this is the first time she could work on her surfing and not on her "line upping".

P.S.Normally I'm very understanding concerning all kinds of weird parasites and I actually thought the leeches were kind of cute, but I say it here and now: Bed bugs could be annihilated and I would not cry a single tear.I'm Without mercynow. I f anyone has an idea, I'm in!

[Rodneyyee]

@trestles. All chicks in the lineup-swatch.

whitedildo will say he is with more better wahines but I'll tough it out here.

[Ottime]

i have just returned home from getting some. I will post some pictures at one point or another, but right now im juts here to say that i got some. and it was nice and glassy and fortunately ony 1% of the people in the california shot. "Crowds" ranged from me (yeah solo session when my wife had some nasty green and yellow coloured stuff in her sinuses) to 8 (very tirsome ) and waves from shoulder to overhead which was nice, but i could have used more overhead days especially when it got "flat" at the end. still a "flat" shoulderhigh reef break is something most people would kill for here.
I found my new favourite wave in front of pristine primary rainforest on an uninhabitated island. such a great left. we only got it at headhigh sets and glass or 2mph onshore, but even then I believed the local guy when he said what would happen at 4-5 foot perfection. And that it would become a scary Hawaiian style death wave at 8-10 foot.
Another observation: Boat trip people sometimes surf worse than i do! But apparently they have money, more than I do. And a bigger ego because i would never ever go on a boat trip with my skill level. Generally I'm still one of the bad surfers in an Indo line up. But it helps when everybody is sharing waves. On a side note: Riding a a 10foot dingy 30 miles out to the open sea through a tropical squall is less fun than riding a deafening fisherboat back at 7mph, although it takes only 1/3 of the time

I met cool people, saw and felt cool wild animals like Orang Utangs (which threw three finger thick branches at us because we annoyed him in his jungle), surfed with turtles and found out that tobacco water soaked socks help to avoid more intimate contact with leeches.
all in all my best surftrip so far. And my wife is hooked as well because this is the first time she could work on her surfing and not on her "line upping".

P.S.Normally I'm very understanding concerning all kinds of weird parasites and I actually thought the leeches were kind of cute, but I say it here and now: Bed bugs could be annihilated and I would not cry a single tear.I'm Without mercynow. I f anyone has an idea, I'm in!

Sounds like you had a great time. The 1% is the way to go. I had to surf my spot the other day, and when the three of us paddled out it made 10. Might have been the most crowded I ever surfed it, but within the hour dropped to a very pleasant 4. Used to be you could surf there on a Saturday with just your buddy. But with a view from the road that sure could not last.

Or I could have gone to the lane with 60 others or head to the point with the 300 or so strung along there. I do bet sharks was pretty epic.

[Ottime]

Found some chest high fog set fun last night. 2.4@14 SW and 3.8@12 NW comboed up nicely. Nice to see the NPAC starti to warm up.

[Piggity]

Next 4-6 weeks are prime time season for NW/SW combo's, with a sprinkle of santa ana's mixed in for the win

[Atrain505]

Had a fun 5 days in tofino last week. The last time I had that good of south swell it was nothing but epic waves. Best I had ever had tofino. This time was just ok. The sand wasn't setup right, the tides, the wind. Never seemed to be quite in the right place at the right time. Still amazing times on the water as they always are. Had one messed up turn on the last day that is just sticking in mind relentlessly. Overhead, steep drop. Beat a couple sections, foam climb, then the most perfect steep shoulder ever for a frontside man turn. I felt, this is the one. The shoulder I've been waiting all trip for. Go to turn with all my might and in my exuberance hadn't slid my foot back over the fins. Turn as hard as possible and the board doesn't turn. I just explode off in a full on tomahawk. I just want the exact same shoulder again to redeem myself!

Subtle Plague. Bed bugs. Hire the best exterminator asap. Be prepared to live out of plastic bags for a month. I had them for a few months once many years ago. First exterminator didn't do the job twice. Finally asked around and got the commercial real estate guys. They nailed em dead. Dry all your fabrics on super hot heat. Put them all in sealed plastic bags. You take clothes in and out of the bags. Exterminator sprays his shit everywhere. The chemicals are gnarly and not healthy, but they are essential to get rid of them. Not fun. Good luck.

[whitekingsalmon]

pavones was firing today.

[whitekingsalmon]

and it is going off again this morning......

[whitekingsalmon]

few feet overhead at the 2nd longest left in the world...

[Ottime]

yawn.

Been fun the last few days surfing a shitty point that not many tend to bother surfing. Although last night saw almost 20 show up. Then again, it had barrels. This morning was glass with three others. Crowd showed up as I was leaving. And I watched a 200 yard ride. Not pavones. Just some shit hole down the street. Twas fun.

[Ottime]

Had a little window this morning while my guy was at school. Spent a little time on a drive. Maybe 45 minutes round trip. But when your window is short, that makes a big difference. Anyway, when I pulled up the parking lot had maybe 15 people out. But the break just a 100 yards up the beach was empty. So I started to pull up. It was not classically lined up, and all the various swells in the water made things much more shifty than usual, but it was also making the barrels throw out a whole bunch more than usual. What is typically a well lined up face, with some chances of small barrels looked much more like shack city. I spent about as much time in the water as I did the car, but I think I may have be in the barrel for at least 18 seconds of that time. One wave was just a six second throat from take off to kick out. So much fun when one of your regular small wave utility breaks is going off.

Hey socal folks, how has this south been down there? Things are looking up. Combo backs off through the weekend, as more small mid period nw fills in. More from both hemis brewing, and the tropics still have not shut down. And we even got some rain the other night.

[whitekingsalmon]

what a beautiful story...

[Ottime]

Hey shitstain I already told ya I'm not interested. I just don't like perverts. So stop trying. Keep it up an I'll get my buddies lawyer girlfriend to put a restraining order on ya. Yeah, shit will get real. Or something like that ya big cry baby. Only a tool like you goes whining to the mods when you get a shovel of what you dish out.

So I googled something today and it turns out that there are places that go off two days in a row. Holy shit. For reals.

[whitekingsalmon]

http://youtu.be/HIVwBwLby0k

[Hugh Conway]

lulz. dildo fail.

[Ottime]

I have a friend who really scored some waves some where better than what ever any of you might of scored. I read about it on the internet.

Anyway, I took some picks of the Lowell swell when it hit. And I think a few are from Marie as well. The typical good spots were not at their best with these swells. Regardless, that is where I shot, mostly because a few of these spots my son likes to hang out at. And that was the point of our days. Still, they looked plenty fun. But man, some of those rare places were plenty fun for a week in summer.



I got hit square in the face by a bucket today. This guys knows how to spray.






Mostly small waves. Some moderate. Plenty of them. And plenty of hollow sections. This guy lined one up.






Paddling in. Not much worth staying out for.




Bottom turns are so much fun.






South flow and a grey sky kept the entire coastline open for the first few days of swell.


More at the blog

oh, yeah. fun small waves up the coast this morning. like super fun. one of my favorite fall spots had its opening day. fuckyeah

[jtran10]

Haven't been out since last Sunday, so missed the nice south last week. Learned Monday AM that my GF's parents house got decimated by Odile, so spent the week trying to contact them with updates and support the GF.

TL;DR - they're ok now (but their house isn't), and I am surfing again tonight finally!

Picked up a pretty fun mitsven quadfin (a local shaper, I'm told) for $150 from friends that are moving back east, like new condition. The guy that bought it originally was too fat to surf it, and really only "paddled" it around a handful of times. Good conditions to take that out tonight.

[Ottime]

The last two numbers in the the row are the important ones. Average top third swell height and dominant period. Fall is arriving just on time. Should reach down the coast by night fall.


46005 WASHINGTON 14Z 210 31G41 65 65 990.5 25 13
46089 TILLAMOOK 14Z 170 16G21 64 63 1003.3 16 14
46050 STNWALL BNKS 14Z 180 18G21 62 64 1007.4 16 16
46015 PORT ORFORD 14Z 170 18G21 57 56 1009.6 13 15
46027 ST GEORGES 14Z 170 10G12 53 56 1013.1 08 15
46006 SE PAPA --- --- ----- -- -- ------ -- --
46213 CP MENDOCINO 14Z 64 08 13
--------------------------------------------------------------------
46014 PT ARNA(NRTH) 13Z 140 18G21 64 64 1012.4 05 15
46059 CALIFORNIA --- --- ----- -- -- ------ -- --
46013 BODEGA BAY 14Z 150 10G12 64 64 1013.6 03 16
46214 PT REYES --- -- -- --
46237 SAN FRAN BAR 14Z 64 03 17

[Mr brownstone]

Nice shots ott!

[whitekingsalmon]

another great morning in pavones................. life is better in boardshorts

[Ottime]

do ya have any pics you can google for us?

[Piggity]

Seasons are changing and south swells will soon be the dwindling light on the horizon in the surf world

[Ottime]

Yeah, but even now a week of small southies is forming. Otoh te NPAC is looking tastey. Missed last night due to guests, but the CDIP was about 11@17 290^

Consistent chest plus an sloppy lookin right now at the lane. Bet things will be fun places later

[Tectonically_Neglected]

No wind, zero. Thin autumn sun and hip - chest high sets. Very nice day indeed!

[Rodneyyee]

another great morning in pavones................. life is better in boardshorts

Must be a new mexican restaurant in bishops!!!

Imagine the sad life this meth head must lead? Posting here,mammoth forums. On every one he is hated. Maybe he just needs a hug!