De-tuning edges?

[wookalar]

I just got a new snowboard, a Salomon Forecast Era 156.

What's the deal on "de-tuning" the edges? I've heard some people talk about this, but have never been really clear on what it means or if it's even a good idea.

From what I gather, it's dulling the edges a bit at the tip and tail to avoid catching said edge.But I've only heard this from other jong friends, never from someone who tunes edges for a living.

This board is ultra stiff, and the edges really do bite.

I haven't had any problems, with this board or any in the past, without detuning. Is this just something I'm better off not doing?


Thanks...

[schuss]

typically, the first inch or two of edge is dulled on both ends, so one can engage and disengage from turns in a fairly easy fashion. Also so you don't catch random bits with the front that throw you for a loop.

[Snow Dog]

It's done on skis; I have no idea about snowboards.

Some people claim that shaped skis don't need the tip and tail detuned.

Rail monkeys detune the entire edge because catching the edge and smashing your face into the rail hurts (so I hear).

Read Dipstik's guide to ski tuning for more tuning info. Some of it must apply to snowboards.

[hucksquaw]

schuss was right on with it. it is done on snowboards also and some riders (ski and board) like to take gummi stones with them on the hill so if their edges are too sharp for the conditions or the tune was just a little off they can take the gummi to the edge and fix it to their liking while on the hill.

[bossass]

I just sat through a five hour seminar on tuning skis and boards today. Yup, you need a detune on your new board. Detune from the contact points (where the edge contacts the snow, usually the widest part of tip/tail) forward. Use a fine file and make like 5 or 6 passes from the contact point forward. If you are a good rider, don't worry about detuning back from the contact point (towards the center), but do it 2 inches back if your a newbie/intermediate. Make some final passes with a gummi stone if you have one. If you want to get real technical you can make one long pass holding the file along both the base and side edge (hold it flush and make a pass). This will push up the burrs, which you can remove with a pass of the gummi. If this is too much to absorb, take it to a good shop and they'll do it for cheap ($5) or give the tech a big beer (man can or big newcastle or something) or a bowl and they'll do it free. It takes 2 minutes.

[wookalar]

much thanks!


anyone have a definite answer on detuning a snowboard?

[britney]

I just sat through a five hour seminar on tuning skis and boards today. Yup, you need a detune on your new board. Detune from the contact points (where the edge contacts the snow, usually the widest part of tip/tail) forward. Use a fine file and make like 5 or 6 passes from the contact point forward. If you are a good rider, don't worry about detuning back from the contact point (towards the center), but do it 2 inches back if your a newbie/intermediate. Make some final passes with a gummi stone if you have one. If you want to get real technical you can make one long pass holding the file along both the base and side edge (hold it flush and make a pass). This will push up the burrs, which you can remove with a pass of the gummi. If this is too much to absorb, take it to a good shop and they'll do it for cheap ($5) or give the tech a big beer (man can or big newcastle or something) or a bowl and they'll do it free. It takes 2 minutes.

Nice, Mr. Ass!

Can you give similarly detailed instructions for detuning the tip/tail of my new 180 explosivs? We were planning to just hit the top and bottom 12 inches or so with a big file or scrape it across the pavement or something. Not exactly scientific...
-b

[wookalar]

that's what I was thinking highway star, thanks!

I've been riding for 15 years, and this Salomon is by far the most responsive edge to edge board I've ever strapped on. I think I'll stay sharp.

Much thanks for all replies.....