OB sickness 10-13-2004

[Superstar Punani]

YOU SHOULDA BEEN HERE YESTERDAY!!!!
Fuck it was going off (10/13).

The swell had dropped a little to about 3-4 foot with occasional 6 foot sets.

This is the sick joy that you see when you pull up to the parking lot



Taken in between sets just before I scrambled into my wettie (Sure enough, the bomb sets rolled as I was struggling with my zipperless)



Lookin North:



"Does this wettie make my ass look fat?"



So I'm out there and find the insano peak. Fuck it was so fuckin FILTH!!!! First wave was a 6 foot bomb. Unreal left. Late drop....backhand bottom turn and a long wall to carve up and play with all the way to the inside.

Back out again. Crowds were a little thicker but still mellow. This time I was on the rights. Next set came. Took off late on the right and had a screamin J-Bay like freught train to race, rip, tear and obliterate.

YYYYEEEAAHHHHH!!!!!

It was perfect....a NW groundwell with a S pulse that mixed it up. No closeouts. I felt like I just saved $2k on an Indo boat trip.

So I'm out again...hard to explain, but I wired the 2 sandbars so I was doing figure 8 laps..catch a 100 yard left, paddle straight back out, catch a 100 yard right, paddle straight out, catch a hundred yard left... and so the endless rides go on.

(The sets were breaking further out than the 2-3 footers here)

So many sick waves. Sunset was around 6:40. Within 10 minutes the crowds were gone, leaving 3 of us out there having it all to ourselves. The two longboarders stuck to the inside reforms, leaving me all alone on the outside which meant that every wave was MINE! MINE!!!!! ALL MINE!!! Do you HEAR ME? ALL MINE!!!! MOOO-HOOOHAAAHAAHAHAHAHA!!!!

It got even sicker. The Lefts were like mini G-Land and the Rights were like mini J-Bay. I'm gonna have to wash out the cum stains in my wettie. Late take off, steep racy wall, slashes, roundhouse cutties, reos, carves.

Shark, Schmark. I'm staying out until I can't see shit. Towards the end of the session I'd surf more by feel and it felt sweet. OB totally turned on, and the past two days have been the best two sessions I've had all year

This is how dark it was by the time I finished up. Surfing at dusk in the Red Triangle is only for the watermelon-testicled or the bird-brained, or watermelon-testicled birdbrains.

[Superstar Punani]

Artsy fartsy panoramic shot

[Big E]

Sweeeeettt!!!! Sounds incredible. Even better when you get it's that nice in your backyard. All I gotta do is learn how to surf better!

[Arty50]

"Does this wettie make my ass look fat?"

Yes it does. You've been eating way too many donuts at that desk job, fuckin' girly man.

Oh and I like the "Prrtty Sun."

[CS]

Shark, Schmark. I'm staying out until I can't see shit.

Best watch out sucka.

[tuffy109]

hahahahaha

[Superstar Punani]

Wow, I just read "E's Surf report"

Here's his take on yesterday....

"Another thing that dawned on me after this afternoon’s session. IT’S GOING OFF OUT THERE!!!! Strait up. Some of the best waves we’ve seen in years!? Crisp, offshore-groomed, glassy, head-high, barreling waves pumped into the beach all day long. Not only that, but there were heaps of waves on offer. This afternoon saw this morning’s crowd quadrupled, easy. But vibes remained chill because everyone that sacked-up and tossed themselves over a ledge or two scored waves. There were tons of waves coming in. Waves for everybody. Rapid fire glassy peeler after gulping glassy pit. The waves this afternoon were some of the best I’ve ever seen at Ocean Beach. One older guy on a yellow longboard stroked into a thickening, oily-glass, overhead+, A-framing, stacking paradigm of beachbreak perfection. Seriously. 20 or 30 surfers turned and watched as he paddled with authority deep into the steepening cleft. Seconds later he’s dropping in, turning hard off the bottom and then standing in the pocket as a massive, barreling slab encapsulates him into it’s deep recesses. I had a perfect view of this guy getting absolutely SHACKED! Deeply shacked. He stayed packed within for a healthy second or two.. then almost squeezes out of the closing section before getting knocked off his board. Easily one of the most enchanting, mesmerizing, beautiful waves I’ve seen ridden in years. Sitting out in the lineup you could look one way or another up and down the beach and witness people stuffing themselves into funneling, unbelievable, “almond” barrels. Lefts and rights. All over the place. Everyone happy. People dropping into serious, meaty chunk-o-waves. I personally saw a few curtains fly overhead but wasn’t able to maneuver any extended spats of green-room consciousness. Soul-gratifying waves come through today. Dropping down into smooth, powerful, critical, dreamy walls feels totally amazing. Waves that got the butterflies fluttering as you saw them mount on the horizon, knowing that people were watching your takeoff, knowing that barrels were eminent and the sandbars shallow. For every barrel handed out, 50 beatings got dished out and humbled the blessed-out surfers. I just want to express my sincere gratitude for being able to surf those waves. For all it’s faults, our society allows a select few of us to develop the knowledge and ability to ride the ocean’s waves. The purpose of surfing is pure enjoyment. The idea of the pursuit is to have fun. We’re given the time and resources to make it happen. There is no evolutionary or economic or practical underpinning to the activity. We don’t do it to help provide sustenance, shelter or sex. Well… maybe some people derive those things from it. But… Some manifestation of the universe dictates that for certain mammalian species (dolphins, pinnipeds, whales and humans), riding waves is a good time. It’s funny that such a practically meaningless endeavor affords each of us such profound meaning. Surfing is one of those imponderable human activities. It’s a celebration of existence. The human spirit shines strongly through the art of surfing. I felt a sense of brotherhood in the lineup this afternoon. We were all just basking in the greatness of a thing we love.

Anyway.. thanks for reading!!!"

Credits to "E"

[Agent 00X]

Tits.

Tits to the right!

Tits to the left!

[Superstar Punani]

And so ends our 2 day streak of sickness.

Complete whiteout on Thurs night. So foggy you couldn't see the lineup. Paddled out anyway and surfed mushy crap 1 foot shit, caught 2 waves, and went to the bar to get shitbombed instead.

[mountainbored]

And then off to the Viper Room, not too shabby playboy.

[tuffy109]

And then off to the Viper Room, not too shabby playboy.

let's just say that saturday morning manhattan beach wasn't worth the write up.