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Thread: OB solid overhead sickness 10-12-04

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Deep Playa
    Posts
    4,821

    OB solid overhead sickness 10-12-04

    Solid Overhead Sickness, 10-12-04

    Yesterday was the equivalent of your first 3-foot powder dump of the season.

    The gnar gnar NW swell cleaned up. Than Franthithco was 85 degrees, sunny with gentle offshores fanning the translucent blue walls of sickness that broke with A-frame perfection along the gay coastline.

    This was Ocean Beach doing it's imitation of Indo, except the water is 30 degrees cooler. I pulled into a crowded parking lot, stoke overdose as I heard hoots and screams of joy from the lineup. Four 8 foot sets were dishing out lefts and rights for the crowd.

    The slice of pizza turned in my stomach. I stared at my 6'1 DHD thruster, then looked enviously at the other guys waxing up their winter guns- 7'2s, 7'6s. I felt as I had shown up to a Monster Truck race in a McLaren F1.

    But Fuck it. The waves were going off and I wasn't gonna miss out on the action just because I'm undergunned. I suited up and ran for the channel and paddled as fast as I can.

    The crowd was mellow and friendly. Surfers who hardly know each other smiled and exchanged stories on the waves that they had just caught.

    As soon as I got out the back I heard hoots down the beach. The horizon shifted as the next group of sets appeared.

    First set.....paddled extra hard to compensate for my shorter board. The inner voice screamed "What the fuck are you doing?!" as the 8 foot peak jacked up, and I was perched on the lip. Stood up, freefell the elevator drop, cranked a bottom turn and looked at the pristine wall of watery joy that stretched for a hundred yards. Raced the section, swooping roundhouse cutties, backhand reos, followed by the gnar shallow inside section of racing the wave and sticking a floater as it closed out on the shorebreak.

    WHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! !!!

    FUCKIN AY! That was INSANE!!!! Like a junkie who got their first hit of crack I was paddling back through the channel to get my next dose.

    The overhead swell kept the crowd moving. Peaks randomly showed up all over the place so there was no hassles at all. The next set was a right....another late drop, and hello! blonde cutie pie on a longboard! "Go! keep riding!" The hottie that I spotted earlier had dropped in on me, but the wave was big enough for two. Rode it all the way to the channel. "Thanks! Great ride, sorry to drop in"...."Hey it's all good!". I had to keep all my concentration on not falling off and looking like a kook in front of the longboarding hottie, while at the same time I was mesmerized by the tight little ass outlined by the size XS fullsuit she was wearing.

    This was completely surreal. Overhead OB, but clean and easy to paddle out. Consistent peaks and a mellow crowd.

    I found my own little peak that had no one on it. Picked off the sets left and right and finding my steeze after a month of no surfing.

    The feeling of stoke and happiness is identical to that 3 foot blower morning at Kirkwood. Waves were straight out of a magazine, and you felt like a rockstar with each ride. Not a drop of water was out of place.

    A couple hours later it was getting dark and the usual OB heebie-jeebies were setting in. An 8 foot elephant seal joined me in the lineup as I watched the last of the orange light dip below the horizon before catching my last wave to shore.

    On the way back I stopped by to check out a sweet 7'6" which I bought. If only I had this a few hours earlier...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Huh?
    Posts
    10,908
    As always, a top notch TR from the Superstar. Me want to go surf now.
    "I knew in an instant that the three dollars I had spent on wine would not go to waste."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Slut Lake City
    Posts
    7,785

    Thumbs up

    Way to get some despite having a little one!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    881
    Had me smiling the whole way through it.

    1 metre swell out here, 38 degree air temp, 18 degree water temp.

    mini skirts and singlets are now in full use as corporate attire for the ladies until mid March. yippah.
    Avoid employing unlucky people - throw half of the pile of resume's in the bin without reading them.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    179
    Nice! I was around the beach chalet most of tuesday. One of these days lets shoot some film/digitals.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    portland of the west
    Posts
    4,083
    "that was a hot wave"

    i kept looking for pictures, but didn't see any.
    fine

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Deep Playa
    Posts
    4,821
    Pics in the 10-13 SR
    Last edited by Superstar Punani; 10-14-2004 at 11:07 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Lower Queen Anne
    Posts
    770
    Aliases: B-Dub, B-Dubya, & B. White

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