Opinions wanted. Now with bonus stoke.

**Tunco** · 10-13-2009, 08:21 PM

So I have been surfing 3 times. I am catching waves, although not as many as I would like. I am also standing up and turning a bit.

Rentals are $10 a day and after a couple of more times I think bying is a good idea. I started out on a big longboard and have moved down to a 9' IIRC. From what I have read, I'm thinking a funboard is the way to go. qi-x are the local outfit so I will most likely go with them. Any opinions chooseing between a Maestro , an El Sunzal or something else for a guy thats closer to 40 then he realizes, weighs in at about 170 and is planing to be out in the water 3 days a week until December when I should be able to step up to 5-ish days a week for the next year or so, and has a penchant for run on sentences?

Also, a limiting factor has been lack arm/chest fitness. After a couple of waves my paddling and popups lost it. Besides push ups and doing popups on the living room floor, any suggestions for training w/o gym access?

While looking into all this, I found out my instructor is not only a great teacher and super cool, but he rips and was 5 time Salvadoran Jr champ among other wins.

So, here is a little stoke from Juan Carlos.

**robnow** · 10-13-2009, 11:47 PM

Stick with that 9' Mal for a while still. If you are really going to go 3 days a week, then a few months at least on a bigger board (8-9') before switching to one of those that you put up.

Everyone wants to move down to a shorter board as quick as they can but that will only be detrimental to your learning. Learning is about catching waves, the more waves you catch, the quicker you will learn. You WILL NOT catch waves on a shorter board and therefore your learning process will be a much longer and discouraging one. The bigger your board, the easier it will be to catch waves, less maneuverable, yes, but don't worry about that for now. You have got to be PATIENT when it comes to surfing.

When you really think you are ready to move down to a smaller board, I would suggest an Egg of Funboard (same thing) type board. That El Sunzal you put is a good example, only make sure it is thick, like around 2 5/8-2 3/4" thick maybe, a little thicker than what they have. Miller Waterskate is another great example. I think these types of boards are becoming more and more popular for the maneuvarability and ease and especially popular among older surfers who don't have the fitness but still want some performance out of the boards. I bought a Miller Waterskate for my second board after I first learned on an 8 1/2" Mini-Mal and I think it was the best move I ever made before progressing onto shortboards. I learned a lot on that board.

So yeah, for now look for a Mal (8-9'), used, whatever, and I'm sure when you are ready to make the step to another board you can easily sell it.

**Tunco** · 10-14-2009, 09:35 AM

Thanks for the advice. I think in the back of my mind I knew that, but thought I was special.

Anyway, heading down this afternoon. The qi-x place is right at the beach I have been going to, so I'll stop in and see what they have.

**HotTate** · 10-14-2009, 10:26 AM

here's a pretty cool site that helps you find out what might be good for you.

www.boardformula.com

**rdennhs** · 10-14-2009, 10:35 AM

I've been surfing for 15 years and my arms still get really tired. I've also spent the majority of the last 5 years in the gym, and still haven't found a shoulder workout that works for me. The best thing is to just get out there as much as possible, it's just like golf.....haha in a way......the more you surf the more comfortable you'll get.

**Sphinx** · 10-14-2009, 08:41 PM

NO!

I made that very mistake, and bought an 8' board to learn on. It sucked so much that I quit.

Three years later I bought a huge longboard and I have actually learned how to surf. I'm a fucking kook. I had no idea how to surf, bought my longboard back in May, and it took me four months of surfing three days per week to learn to pop up. I'm finally, finally to the point where if there's a wave, I can catch it. I was in your boat just a few months ago, and it's well imprinted in my memory.

Here's what I implore you to do: go find a longboard. Find something that's 9'6" or preferably bigger. 22" wide, 3" thick, go for a fucking boat. An aircraft carrier. If you can carry it, it's too small; if your butt gets wet it's too thin. Get something you would be comfortable putting an outboard motor on; get something that if you were to stand on it with a paddle people would call you 'Laird' and throw things at you.

The fundamental point is this: a 10' long, really thick, floaty longboard is the best tool to learn on. When you can pop up and ride chest high waves on that, and start feeling like you can call yourself 'surfer' rather than 'kook', start thinking about a different board.

The difference between a 9' and 10' board is huge, even to a beginner. GO BIG. No, fuck that. GO BIGGER.

I'm 6'3" and 180. I desperately love my 10' log. I bought it from a good friend who learned to surf on it. He's 5'7" and 150. Bigger is better when you have no idea what you're doing.

Fitness? Go surf. It'll come.

**BS720** · 10-14-2009, 10:12 PM

^^^^Sage advice. I did the same thing, and it really retards your learning curve. Besides, that longboard(9'6") will stay in your quiver for a long time. Just make sure you at least put in 100-150 days on it before you think of going shorter.

Hugh Conway · 10-15-2009, 05:53 AM

Originally Posted by BS720

Just make sure you at least put in 100-150 days on it before you think of going shorter.

You can think of going shorter when you can spend the day paddling the longboard. If it's flat, or dark, get on the longboard and paddle for an hour.

**Bud** · 10-15-2009, 09:04 AM

totally agree with what Sphinx said...... I've been surfing for five summers (with the occational winter trip)...made the switch to a 7'-6" egg too soon and pretty much wasted a year and a half trying to surf on it...I could do it, but my arms wore out fast and I just wasn't catching many waves. Back in May this year, I picked up a 10' single fin (its a friggin aircraft carrier, and I love it).... I now lose track of how many waves I catch in a single session, I've figured out how to do cutbacks on it even though its a huge board, and I start planing on the wave so early I have tons of time to make sure my pop up technique is proper and not a hacked up scramble to my feet, and nose-rides are cake on it. I know I'm a middle-aged goofball on such a big board, but I don't give a shit...I can ride a ton of waves with it and thats whats gonna eventually make me a better surfer.
I'll start taking the egg back out this winter now that I feel like I've made some real progress this summer.

**Long duc dong** · 10-15-2009, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by robnow

Stick with that 9' Mal for a while still. If you are really going to go 3 days a week, then a few months at least on a bigger board (8-9') before switching to one of those that you put up.

Everyone wants to move down to a shorter board as quick as they can but that will only be detrimental to your learning. Learning is about catching waves, the more waves you catch, the quicker you will learn. You WILL NOT catch waves on a shorter board and therefore your learning process will be a much longer and discouraging one. The bigger your board, the easier it will be to catch waves, less maneuverable, yes, but don't worry about that for now. You have got to be PATIENT when it comes to surfing.

When you really think you are ready to move down to a smaller board, I would suggest an Egg of Funboard (same thing) type board. That El Sunzal you put is a good example, only make sure it is thick, like around 2 5/8-2 3/4" thick maybe, a little thicker than what they have. Miller Waterskate is another great example. I think these types of boards are becoming more and more popular for the maneuvarability and ease and especially popular among older surfers who don't have the fitness but still want some performance out of the boards. I bought a Miller Waterskate for my second board after I first learned on an 8 1/2" Mini-Mal and I think it was the best move I ever made before progressing onto shortboards. I learned a lot on that board.

So yeah, for now look for a Mal (8-9'), used, whatever, and I'm sure when you are ready to make the step to another board you can easily sell it.

This pretty much sums it up. I learned on an 8 foot fun board, but then tried to go down in size too quickly. It was a mistake, and definitely slowed down my development. I know it is not what you want to hear, but stay with something big. You need to paddle a lot, and catch a ton of waves in order to learn. If you are having problems with paddling fatigue, a short board will be very difficult to adapt to.

**Tunco** · 10-15-2009, 01:50 PM

Stay big. Got it, check.

Now, what kind of Jet Ski should I use for getting towed in?

Originally Posted by Sphinx

; get something that if you were to stand on it with a paddle people would call you 'Laird' and throw things at you.

I LOLed

**big mike** · 10-28-2009, 12:17 PM

dont forget zunzal is a great longboard wave. its a point so u can paddle around no need to duckdive and its pretty crumbly not super top to bottem. when i was there i kinda wished i had a longboard although i did ok on my 7-0" al merrick.

**QuikR12** · 10-28-2009, 01:04 PM

When you're ready: Anacapa Glider: Great progessive shortboard with thick dims which is tits for your first shorty. Shape by Al Merrick, factory produced by GSI. I ride the 6'8'' which is a full 3'' thick, plenty to keep my dense ass afloat.

http://outside.away.com/outside/gear...ction=showgear

**liv2ski** · 10-28-2009, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by BS720

Besides, that longboard(9'6") will stay in your quiver for a long time. Just make sure you at least put in 100-150 days on it before you think of going shorter.

Besides basic technique, surfing has a lot to do with strength to weight ratios. I.E; you need to be a skinny fucker that is stronger than shit to ride that potato chip short board. That said, I didn't notice your height and weight, but the 9"6" board really helps the equation. Until you have a significant strength increase and possible weight lose, don't try going smaller. Once you can paddle that board into anything and just feel like you have unreal paddling strength, then go down maybe to a 8'6". Once you are kicking ass on that, maybe a 7' 10" as a 7'6" may be to short. The shorter you go, the exponentially tougher it gets. This progression took me a at least a year surfing every other day. However, I started in my mid 30's. A young dude should progress more quickly. Have fun.

Edit: for exercise, paddle and swim as much as possible if no gym to work out.

**Nancy08** · 11-03-2009, 09:58 PM

I watched the video.
Wow! Full of energy.

thanks for sharing. I had really an interest in surfing.

**Ottime** · 11-05-2009, 03:41 PM

Welcome Nancy. Welcome.

So I have the complete opposite story of ya'll. I learned on a 6'4" plug. Thick for sure, but still a short board. It took a summer, but then again, I was 13. I think age plays into it.

As for weight, etc. I weigh in at 185+ pounds and still ride a 6'3" chip for chest to head high waves. Smaller than that, I go to a fun or long board. For bigger waves, I prefer a bit more running length.

If you are athletic and comforatble in the water, and the waves near you have any juice at all, I would go for a 7'6" wide and thickish board. I've seen a few friends get stuck on the longboard, and so used to it, that once they got stronger and better - they could not learn how to use the smaller board. It was almost like the long board made them lazy.

I guess it depends on the individual. If you easily get frustrated, keep the long board. It is (most of the time) easier to catch waves on and stand up on. Otherwise I always suggest an Eggish board to friends.

**myles long** · 11-06-2009, 05:08 PM

i have to agree with Ottime on the egg shape...surf the longboard until you are strong and getting consistent with catching, turning etc....then move to a shorter egg shape.

I spent an hour and half talking on the phone with bob pearson about what i liked, what i didnt like and every other detail. I said you are the expert make a recommendation and build me something i will have fun with...he came back with a 7'6" egg shape with a pretty hard rail and a pulled in tail. I am 6'2" 220lbs and it has become my goto board for anything chest to head high and slightly oh.

**Tunco** · 11-06-2009, 05:15 PM

Thanks for the input guys. I am beginning to actively shop for a board now so I've got some thinking to do.

**PUNKY** · 11-07-2009, 04:12 PM

Robert August What I Ride 9'6" board for surfing and Complete Surfing with Wingnut Weaver for reading

**Sphinx** · 11-07-2009, 04:48 PM

P. S. Don't buy new. Buy something that's dinged up, repaired, with no delaminations. You're gonna ding the board with your knees, with your head, with rocks, don't buy new, it's a waste of money.

Also, don't buy a pop-out. Pop-outs suck. Buy something hand-shaped. Something with a lot of glass on it for durability.

I know different people have different experiences, but I'd still vote heavily for a 10' log. Store it behind your couch. A board bag is particularly nice for a big board, plus it'll protect the board in storage.

**Ottime** · 11-08-2009, 04:11 PM

^^^^ check carefully for delams. Around where you stand, esp the back foot. If it has a tail patch on it, check as close to the patch as possible. Also check around the rails where you duck dive.

So peeps will put a board up in the shop just before it is going to go to shit. If you are not sure how to look for bad dings - get some help.

Look out for: Major repairs that change how the weight is distributed; Tails that have been put back on - a nose is fine, but a tail will break again soon; Poorly repaired dings; Open or unrepairable dings; Check around the fins/fin box for leakage or cracks; Boards that have been repainted (often to cover up ugly fixes)

I agree about buying a used board. I did it for years, even after I finally figured out what I wanted. Now I get them shaped.

If you decide to get an Egg, you can always go out to Cost Co and get an 8'6" Foam Board for $100. Oh wait - El Salvador - well have some one bring it to you.

**Tunco** · 11-09-2009, 06:41 AM

Thanks for the onfo.

Yep, I am going used for sure. There seem to be some good used boards that get bought for a gringo's vacation and sold when they head home.

I'm looking for a good deal for an 8'-'9er. Now I just need my car to get done at the repair shop. Boards on the bus between La Libertad and Zunzal are fine. In San Salvador, not so much.

**Tunco** · 01-04-2010, 07:57 PM

Ended up with bro deal a 6'x21"x2 1/8" single-fin egg. It working f'ing good for me. I am still looking for a longboard.

Car is still in the shop but I moved to El Tunco. And I have developed a taste for Cuban rum.