
Originally Posted by
hop
I would go back in time to a point where I was about 3 or 4 years old. Then it would be no problem.
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Yeah, no kidding. As someone who is a mediocre surfer it is very tough. My bottom turns are still awkward, and the lip has to be right there for me to hit it. I learned in college, went to UCSB. Unfortunately, for the learning stage you really do want to live near the water. You have to go out, over and over and over again. You fall, and fall and fall.......It really takes months of going out several times a week if you want to learn in your late teens, early 20's or later. I lived on the ocean in college and went out every day. Having surfed for about 15 years I am still solidly mediocre. To get really good, you have to get on it at an early age. Having said that, even being an OK surfer is a whole lot of fun. Flying down the line with a ton of speed is a great feeling, and getting barreled really is as fun as they say. Things have to be set up pretty well for me to get tubed, but when it happens it shoots energy through you, much like skiing powder.
As far as somewhere to learn.....I guess a place like Waikiki. Long mellow waves, soft boards to rent, surf instructors to show you how it is done....At the learning stage you want everything to be slow and gradual, you don't need a place with waves that are good for good surfers, you need somewhere gentle.
Part of the trouble with surf instruction is that people usually have difficulty after the instructor leaves. Learning to surf, is really about learning to paddle, judge waves, and pop up. It is not about learning to ride. Having said all of that, I guess Waikiki is your best option.
If you call up surf camps, be frank and honest with them. Going to a place where people who can actually surf are having fun will do nothing for you. You also need to keep at it. Going and splashing around for a week will not do it if you are going back to Denver(or somewhere inland) when it is all done.
One of the funny things about this is that many people would assume going to a place like UCLA would be good for learning to surf. UCLA would be OK for someone who grew up doing it, but you really need to be within 5-10 minutes of the beach to actually learn. I'm not saying it is impossible, but surfing is very fickle.
If you want to actually be a surfer, i.e. get up and ride waves, make turns....You need to move to the beach. If you have 2 months to go somewhere and learn you might be able to get somewhere, like to the advanced beginner stage, but to really do it you have to move to the coast. It is much harder than it looks. I would say it is easier to become a competent skier/snowboarder/skateboarder than to get to the same level with surfing.
One more thing: You want to learn on a big board. Do not go to a smaller board until you can paddle, stand up, angle, and make little turns. Trying to learn on a board for advanced surfers will stunt your growth. I never saw anyone learn successfully that way. It's not that it cannot be done, it just makes it much harder.
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