Windswell in effect. Decent 4-5 foot shifting peaks with only 5 of us out, since the bitch ass current and closeout sets sent most people heading south.
What looked like disorganized bunch of windblown crap on the inside actually masked the sickness that was taking place out the back. Long racy walls and punchy sections made for a fun-ass session. Low tide had the waves heaving onto the inside sandbar for boardbreaking floaters, or a bodyslam onto the shallow bottom.
Long paddle after every ride because of the current, but if you can maintain position at the peak then it's all yours.
After sunset the heebie jeebies were setting in. Stinson Beach, just across the Golden Gay Bridge is closed from recent shark sightings.
As I paddled out to catch the next set, a dark shape cruised underneath my board. When I realized it was a seal, my girly man scream stopped. Then another. Two seals hanging around me. Shark food. Fuck it. I'm outta there. I caught the first set, a sick right that walled up all the way to the inside section, then got my ass out of the water.
Bookmarks