Check Out Our Shop
Page 21 of 72 FirstFirst ... 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 ... LastLast
Results 501 to 525 of 1780

Thread: Binding Mount Paper Templates

  1. #501
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
    Posts
    20,929
    Jondrums, thanks for doing the templates for us. My 2nd mount went perfect with your Look px template. I went slowly, but i know it is a better mount than 99% of the shops would have done. Your the mag.
    Never in U.S. history has the public chosen leadership this malevolent. The moral clarity of their decision is crystalline, particularly knowing how Trump will regard his slim margin as a “mandate” to do his worst. We’ve learned something about America that we didn’t know, or perhaps didn’t believe, and it’ll forever color our individual judgments of who and what we are.

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Crested Butte, CO
    Posts
    757
    I've probably said this before, as I've used these templates some 20x without a single mismount, but this is absolutely the most useful thread on TGR. Saved me probably $1000 in mounts.

  3. #503
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    "the internet"
    Posts
    338
    I just used the FKS mount on my S7's.
    Didn't even bother with the templates in the binding box.
    Forward pressure set correctly in the middle of the adjustment range. Thanks!

  4. #504
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    North Idaho
    Posts
    1,149
    Just used these to confirm mounting hole locations for FKS and Salomons to fit on an MFD Alltime. Jondrums, you have PM.

  5. #505
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    2,140
    I don't know if this has ever been resolved, or if anyone noticed, but the tyrolia/head paper template is off.

    The rearmost heel screw markings are too narrow by a few mm. Its probably between 2-3mm but I forget since I last used them. Believe me when I say it wasn't a printer issue, the rest of the holes were spot on, and I have mounted about 5 pairs with the template, I just had to adjust the rear holes when punching the dents.

    5 different template prints, over the course of 3 seasons, all were wrong in the exact same way. 3 different pairs of Tyrolia bindings, all had to be adjusted for, so it wasn't coincidence.

    I would love it if the template could be fixed, so I don't have to think so hard next time.

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    Joe, I have a pair of Mojo 15s, so I'll check the template and fix it!

  7. #507
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    North of the GG Bridge, CA
    Posts
    919
    So even with the small difference between the PLUM and the Dynafit pattern, I had a fairly easy time getting a spot on mount done. Really stoked with the rig...hopefully it skis as well as I think it will!

    Measure. Then measure again.


    Dry mount. This actually saved me this time as I had the rear half of the template lined up on the wrong hash mark


    Drill, glue, screw, and voila! Plum's on Concept's.

  8. #508
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
    Posts
    2,635
    Sick looking sticks.

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    14,082
    Quote Originally Posted by mikemcee View Post
    Dry mount. This actually saved me this time as I had the rear half of the template lined up on the wrong hash mark
    What I do is toe holes first rather than try to get both templates lined up at the same time. I also cut them on the bsl scale so they can't be misaligned fore/aft.

  10. #510
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,524
    Quote Originally Posted by mikemcee View Post
    Drill, glue, screw, and voila! Plum's on Concept's.
    That looks sick. I'm very jealous.

  11. #511
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    "the internet"
    Posts
    338
    I have a 320mm BSL.

    I fold the templates on the 340mm line and use a hole punch at the 320mm mark.

    This leaves a hole at 320mm and 360mm, so now there are two holes that can be used to align to center.

    I also put a hole at the other end of the template and use that to align as well.

  12. #512
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    North of the GG Bridge, CA
    Posts
    919
    Quote Originally Posted by pisteoff View Post
    What I do is toe holes first rather than try to get both templates lined up at the same time. I also cut them on the bsl scale so they can't be misaligned fore/aft.
    I did that too. That was the actual "hmmm" moment when I realized that despite measuring twice, I was still an idiot. The good news is I know myself well enough to realize I need to double double check everything before I do something I can't reverse. Like drill holes in brand new skis.

  13. #513
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,271
    i feel retarded right now - I looked and can't find it; I swear i saw it a few months ago..grrr

    what size drill bit do I use for dukes? what is the depth of the drill bit? Better to tape it off or buy a "ski-bit"?

    thanks

  14. #514
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    449
    Better to buy a ski bit. The tape can slide. Drill bit size depends on your skis construction. For a normal skis with no metal, 3.5X9.5 is the most common.

  15. #515
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,271
    Thanks.

    I am a Jong at this. I will probably mount about 8 2x4's

    I was planning on mounting a pair of DPS and 4frnts. DPS says to use 4.1 +/- .1. Would a 4.1 work for 4frnt too?

    My local ski shop doesn't have bits. Would home hardware Canadian tire etc carry a depth-stop bit?

    Thanks

  16. #516
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    449
    I don't have a any experience with the all carbon skis. But I was under the impression for normal skis like the 4frnts, that the 3.5 was the desired size. The ski bits will be hard to find except from specialized retailers. To stay cheap, you can use a stop collar, or I've even heard of drilling through a cork the proper depth and then sucking the cork up tight to the chuck of the drill. On a lot of skis, the bit size is listed near the boot center mark. If you'll be mounting a lot of skis, it sure is nice to have the right bits. Might be worth the investment...

  17. #517
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    1,271
    the dps is a hybrid...i was just going by the FAQ on the website. i will see what marshal says too.

  18. #518
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    1,018
    I'll probably be mounting some Plums myself before the end of the year, possibly on Sollyfit plates (or just Sollyfit toe plates). Jondrums: could you comment on the Plum-Sollyfit compatibility now that you have confirmed the toe spacing is 0.5mm longer than a Dynafit pattern?

  19. #519
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    3
    I thought you might like to see the jig that I made on my laser cutter based on the paper templates here.
    jondrums: email me at willo at powercordlabs dot com if you're interested in having me make some for your shop.

    I combined the paper template for my size (315mm) and cut this out of some spare transparent acrylic that I had on hand. Clear would be better, but the red worked well.
    The markings on the ends made it really easy to line up.

  20. #520
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    Plums work great on the plates even in light of the .5mm difference. I run plum guides on the plates myself (switched over from FT12 last season).

  21. #521
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    2,140
    Hey jondrums, any conclusions with the tyrolia template?

  22. #522
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,179
    fixed. I found that the rearmost holes measured out at 42.5mm width, and the template had them at 42mm.

    It was only .5mm, so I'm curious if various versions of this binding vary a little. Mine are Mojo 15s

  23. #523
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    7,581
    this should be sticky'd!

    awesome information. worked great for two sets of skis this weekend.

    question on the salomon template: is the center hole for the brake actually needed (to be drilled)? i couldn't tell if the screw was just holding the brake onto the binding plate or if it was going all the way through into the skis. i'm wondering if i have open holes under the brake mount.

  24. #524
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    449
    ^^^Some salomon heels are 4 hole and some are 5. The break just screws into the binding, so if you have 4 screw heels don't drill the center hole.

  25. #525
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    302
    You can also tell the 4-hole heels apart from those with 5 by slightly flexing them. Is it one stiff plate, where the binding is on, then it's the 4-hole piece.
    If the part with the breaks is somehow flexibly attached to the main part, it's a 5-hole.

    But easier is to look on the plate from down. How many screws are visible? Count... There you go...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •