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Thread: Binding Mount Paper Templates

  1. #301
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    Feb 2007
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    302
    Quote Originally Posted by slowroastin View Post
    is it safe to just screw them back in with a good amount of epoxy in the hole? or do i need to heli-coil now?
    Glueing them in with epoxy will do the job. I solved the same issues on unprecise mounts (drifted drillers in soft wood core and too big drill) successfully that way.
    But heli-coiling is the cleaner way making re-mounting the skis possible. Putting some inserts in would make a gain out of a fail.


    Just cross-checked jondrums template with mine.
    The foremost two (standard) screws measured 40.946mm wide and 40.926mm distance to the second row of screws. I got 42mm for both values and used my template a couple of times successfully. Which doesn't mean it's point on exact, of course
    The second (heel-wards) row of screws is the same, as is the first row of the heel unit.
    For the second row I got the same distance to the first, but I measured a spread of 30mm while jondrums template gives 28.962mm.

    Again, I can't say which values are right. Mine just worked out -but so did jondrums...

    I additionally measured mid-sole position to be 5mm more back of the toe unit and distance between toe and heel unit to be 5mm less. The second is tricky to figure out given the heel unit design of the FKS.
    I at first had calculated the heel unit more distant to the front unit but after a few test mounts shifted that to end up in the middle of the rather small adjustment range of the FKS.

  2. #302
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    While trying to get up to speed here and viewing your installation videos, etc, (nice job: clear and helpful) I subscribed and left this comment relative to DynaDuke Installation Part 1 in the interest of reducing margin of error:

    Regarding marking centerline accuracy, you might want to use a finer line than a Sharpie provides and a longer straight edge. If for some reason the middle center mark is off and you use the shorter straight edge as shown, it's possible that you could in effect draw a super shallow 'V' and the templates could be off line, canting the two hole groups and subsequent mounts not in true alignment. A longer straight edge that is longer than the templates, will remove this possibility.
    Granted, this may be splitting hairs, but if someone blindly marks their centerline (read: Major Benchmark) there could be a couple additive errors throwing things off a skootch. When ever I mark long lines with 3 marks, a longer straight edge verifies that the middle mark is in alignment. Or you could simply use 2 marks beyond the template with the longer straight edge.

    Two points make a line, three could make a 'V', depending on the pilot, coupled with a short straight edge and other factors.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  3. #303
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    ^^^ If the centre line is off, that shouldn't affect the holes being too close together... it would just affect if the binding was properly centred on the ski.

    Sounds to me like a wandering drill bit or not precisely starter-punched hole locations.

  4. #304
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    Correct. You would not want to have your toe pointing a little East of North and your Heel pointing a little West of North, for instance. It's a minor/splitting hairs thing but reduces a couple small variables that could add up to a minor problem or inconvenience. It's just a better practice, IME.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  5. #305
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    Jester R3 verified. Thanks Jondrums! If I am just experimenting with a mount and may want to go back to the old holes, can I fill the holes with something soft like silicon or will the ski be weak because the holes are not solid? Ski = 120 underfoot solid ash/maple
    First 360 mute grab --> Andrew Sheppard --> Snowdrifters 1996

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knut View Post
    Just cross-checked jondrums template with mine.
    ...
    Thanks for cross-checking Knut. I made the FKS template a long time ago. I have three kinds of FKS bindings on hand here, so I'll just take a caliper to the real deal. It is very possible that I made this template from someone else's paper template which was poorly scaled or something.

    I'm very sorry this happened! I've personally mounted a pair of FKS with it, so I know its pretty close at least.

    You guys checked print scaling right?

  7. #307
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    Wow guys, thanks for speaking up!

    I measured all the FKS bindings I have here, and found that the template needed some adjustments. The toepiece front holes were off by about .5mm (not much, but wrong for sure). The heelpiece rear holes were also wrong by .25mm. I updated the template using my own hole measurements, and Knut's midsole line advise. Knut: I split the difference on length toe to heel between our two estimates.

    What we really need, is someone with a jig and a perfectionist nature... Who'll step up to check the FKS template?

  8. #308
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    Sounds like a good compromise.

    Quote Originally Posted by DudeLebowSKI View Post
    J can I fill the holes with something soft like silicon or will the ski be weak because the holes are not solid?
    You can absolutely do that. Hot glue is also working nicely.

  9. #309
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    Dec 2010
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    Thanks so much for these templates, mounted 2 pairs of skis yesterday, saved me a lot of money

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Wow guys, thanks for speaking up!

    I measured all the FKS bindings I have here, and found that the template needed some adjustments. The toepiece front holes were off by about .5mm (not much, but wrong for sure). The heelpiece rear holes were also wrong by .25mm. I updated the template using my own hole measurements, and Knut's midsole line advise. Knut: I split the difference on length toe to heel between our two estimates.

    What we really need, is someone with a jig and a perfectionist nature... Who'll step up to check the FKS template?
    I get 28.7mm and 20.7mm for the width of the heelpiece holes, and 35mm and 41.8mm for the width of the toepiece holes. (Toe = 4-screw Geze pig toe)

    I get 41.1mm from the top row to the bottom row of toepiece holes, and I get 32mm from the top row to the bottom row of heelpiece holes.

    This is measured from a binding, not a jig. The screws in mine have a little circle on the bottom, which makes it reasonably easy to measure between them. (I left the mounting screws in the bindings and measured from the points of the screws)

  11. #311
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    Feb 2007
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    Measuring the srews was somewhat imprecise for me. They easily tilt a little in the holes.
    Measuring distance between outer edge of holes minus distance between inner edge is more accurate, I think.

    Btw: you find my template here, if you're interested to see the numbers I got

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Double Check your Print Scaling! not all printers print at the right size, so use a ruler and make sure that printed ruler on paper matches the real ruler. If not, adjust the size percentage on your print settings and print again!
    So, I've tried printing these and the Dynafit template on Wildsnow on two different computers and two different printers and I get the exact same printout result that is not to the correct scale.

    After looking at all possible print set up options, I can't seem to figure out how to adjust the scale %. Has anyone overcome this printing challenge and willing to share any tips? Thanks!

  13. #313
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    Are you asking how to calculate print percentages or how to change the printer's percentage settings?

    Assuming the former, try dividing 200mm by what you measure the length of the scale bar to actually be printed. IE, if it's 196mm, you'd need to set your scale at 102%.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  14. #314
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    Jan 2008
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    I was asking how one finds the "knob" to turn to adjust these PDFs, which appear off by default on my machines, before hitting the printer "go" button.

    Anyway, with more playing around I found it. The knob to turn is found on one my computers via this path: Print setup>properties>page set up>page layout>scaled>*enter scaling* then print the scaled PDF until it is correct...

  15. #315
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    Dec 2009
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    367

    PX/Axial 2 template is good to go!

    I screwed some PX12s to some new skis tonight. I did mount a binding onto a chunk of 2X4 just to be 100% sure, but I won't bother next time. The template is perfect and saved me some cash and from having to subject my skis to the tech at the local Rossi dealer who had never heard of Look bindings when I asked if they had a Look/Rossi jig. I'm thinkin' my skis are happy to have not fell prey to his hand...

    Thanks for posting these!

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reformed View Post
    ...the local Rossi dealer who had never heard of Look bindings when I asked if they had a Look/Rossi jig.
    Jesus! Somebody lied on their resume.

  17. #317
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    I recently mounted a pair of dynafits using the R1 Template. I found the heel to be ~5mm back of center on the adjustment screw - which was mentioned previously. Dynafit Titan for the record. I see now there is a R2?? I'll be mounting a second pair this week.

    What is the difference between the two? Also, maybe a rev date could be added to filename, or am I missing that somewhere?

  18. #318
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    How would one go about measuring a jig?

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by grenalds View Post
    I recently mounted a pair of dynafits using the R1 Template. I found the heel to be ~5mm back of center on the adjustment screw - which was mentioned previously. Dynafit Titan for the record. I see now there is a R2?? I'll be mounting a second pair this week.
    I haven't been keeping good records of the revision history. I will say that I checked the R2 dynafit template with my titans+FT12 and it is SPOT ON (also checked with several other boots - scarpa and garmont inc.). Also, the dynadukes and sollyfits are based on the Dynafit/Duke/Salomon templates, so I know those are perfect.

  20. #320
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    re: FKS template

    I did a test mount tonight with two pairs of FKS (geze toe, and normal), and ended up with yet another revision to the template. This time for BSL location.

    I'm calling this one verified now, as I used a boot in which I have verified the BSL line and BSL length.

  21. #321
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    Mounted FKS 155's last night with new template. Did not have any problems, all screws true and flat. I would also call the fks template verified. Thanks again for the templates and the tutorial.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Thanks to DrDom for measuring his brand new Griffon bindings. It turns out that they are different from the Jester/Griffon template on page one. Can anyone shed light on why this is? Is the new griffon/jester a different pattern, or has the griffon always been different from the jester?
    Was there ever any resolution on this Griffon/Jester variance? Was it user error?

    I need to mount a couple pair of Griffon Demo bindings and will be using the template. Bindings are going on a some VIP's skis so I can't afford to mess this up.

  23. #323
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    nobody ever got back to me. test mount on a 2x4 to double check. Let us know what you find!

  24. #324
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    Feb 2007
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    Aren't the Demo Bindings having the Shizo/Duke etc. pattern?

  25. #325
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    I mounted a pair of Look Axial2 bindings, which of course means a better revision on that template. The old one worked fine, but the heel wasn't perfectly centered in the track at the mounted BSL. So I moved the heel-holes.

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