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Thread: range of adjustment for 916

  1. #1
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    range of adjustment for 916

    Lots of threads on the 916, but just a quick question^^
    Is there a range of 1 cm? more? less?
    thanks.

  2. #2
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    yes, 1cm up or down. i just measured.
    Last edited by dynodonkeyaltabird; 01-22-2009 at 12:08 PM.
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  3. #3
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    i thought it was 1cm in each direction, so 2cm.


    i could be totally off though
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  4. #4
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    Much appreciated gentlemen.

  5. #5
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    I have a 301mm boot and maxed out we were getting a 317mm boot in there....
    Seriously, this can’t turn into yet another ON3P thread....

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by iggyskier View Post
    I have a 301mm boot and maxed out we were getting a 317mm boot in there....
    Cool thanks a lot iggy, just had a question from a potential buyer of my spats.

  7. #7
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    Anyone know same spec on the sth14?

    If it's +-1, can you mount it all the way on the track so my friend can demo,
    albeit at wrong center.
    I'm 308 bsl and he's 330.
    Life of a repo man is always intense.

  8. #8
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    Here's the thing, if you use the jig - it'll put you right in the middle of the range based on your BSL. You can fudge that if need be - I "shared" a pair of skis in the past and we took the BSL's, added them together and divide by 2 to get an "average BSL" which we used for the mount. Then had about 1 cm to go in either direction to match our boots. This was before I knew that doing this would affect how the ski performed on snow!

    Doing this allowed my boot at 312mm to fit, as well as my buddy's at 329mm... so there was at least 17+mm of range FWIW

    edit: this was an older salomon binding, but used the worm screw so I thought it would apply?
    Last edited by jfost; 01-21-2009 at 11:32 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfost View Post
    Here's the thing, if you use the jig - it'll put you right in the middle of the range based on your BSL. You can fudge that if need be - I "shared" a pair of skis in the past and we took the BSL's, added them together and divide by 2 to get an "average BSL" which we used for the mount. Then had about 1 cm to go in either direction to match our boots. This was before I knew that doing this would affect how the ski performed on snow!
    Doing this allowed my boot at 312mm to fit, as well as my buddy's at 329mm... so there was at least 17+mm of range FWIW

    edit: this was an older salomon binding, but used the worm screw so I thought it would apply?
    Each pair of boots would be less than 1 cm off of the line. I wouldn't worry about it one bit.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim J View Post
    Each pair of boots would be less than 1 cm off of the line. I wouldn't worry about it one bit.
    It depends on the ski, but sometimes 1 cm can actually make a pretty noticeable difference.

    I can also confirm that the range is around 1 cm in each direction from the centered jig mount, around 20 mm total.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bfree View Post
    It depends on the ski, but sometimes 1 cm can actually make a pretty noticeable difference.

    I can also confirm that the range is around 1 cm in each direction from the centered jig mount, around 20 mm total.
    The guy with the 312 mm boot would have been 4.25 mm in front of the line. The guy with the 329 boot would be 4.25 mm behind the line. Look at 4 mm on a ruler. You are imagining things if you think you can feel the difference.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim J View Post
    The guy with the 312 mm boot would have been 4.25 mm in front of the line. The guy with the 329 boot would be 4.25 mm behind the line. Look at 4 mm on a ruler. You are imagining things if you think you can feel the difference.
    I know 4.25mm is very small, but I contend I can feel the difference of every 7mm increment of a 1018 binding on an OG BigDaddy. But I guess I don't notice a 7mm difference unless I ski the 2 positions back-to-back.

    916 range: Repeating what everyone else said... Yes, nearly all I've measured have a 20mm TOTAL range, count on it. I've measured one at 18mm and a few at 20.5-21mm---I guess due to minor variations in the flared/melted end of the screw.

    .
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim J View Post
    The guy with the 312 mm boot would have been 4.25 mm in front of the line. The guy with the 329 boot would be 4.25 mm behind the line. Look at 4 mm on a ruler. You are imagining things if you think you can feel the difference.

    You're right - I surely didn't notice at the time... but again, now that I have "learned" so much around here, I would think twice before doing this on a nice new pair of sticks!!!

    On an old pair of spats - I would say go for it! Now, for each person, probably wouldn't notice being .5cm off the line - but it could cause a quite different feeling from one user to another - e.g. guy 1 is 1cm forward of guy 2 = guy 1 hates the skis while guy 2 thinks they're money...

    bottom line, it is a compromise to use the binders to change your position on the ski... a proper remount will get your boot center where it needs to be!

  14. #14
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    so, i've got two sets of holes in my pontoons. 1 for 304 with 914's (bought them with these in them) and one for when i mounted my boots at 324 with 916's.
    i got new boots and my bsl is 314 and they don't go tight enough for my new boots (friend said the indicator line in the window wasn't quite in the middle, so they might pre release, but would probably work, though i should remount to be safe). can i just move my bindings to the original holes (304) and max them out for my 314 bsl boots? don't feel like putting a third pair of holes in them...

    i realize that this will put my mid sole mount 1/2 cm to a full 1 cm back of the line, but on the pontoons i don't think it should matter that much. thoughts?
    Last edited by markcjr; 02-06-2009 at 03:12 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by markcjr View Post
    so, i've got two sets of holes in my pontoons. 1 for 304 with 914's (bought them with these in them) and one for when i mounted my boots at 324 with 916's.
    i got new boots and my bsl is 314 and they don't go tight enough for my new boots (friend said the indicator line in the window wasn't quite in the middle, so they might pre release, but would probably work, though i should remount to be safe). can i just move my bindings to the original holes (304) and max them out for my 314 bsl boots? don't feel like putting a third pair of holes in them...

    i realize that this will put my mid sole mount 1/2 cm to a full 1 cm back of the line, but on the pontoons i don't think it should matter that much. thoughts?
    No need to drill more holes. The 916's might hold you in even at your current mount with less-than-ideal FW pressure. If not, then I'd just move your toe pieces to the old holes while keeping the heel pieces in current position. This will result in vacated holes just ahead of your toe, but I doubt the ski will ever snap there with those soft rocker tips. That seems better to me than moving the heel pieces, which would leave vacated holes behind the heel piece---it's conceivable you could snap the tail on a backseat landing or if you extend legs more than necessary when absorbing a hardpack landing.

    .

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by markcjr View Post
    so, i've got two sets of holes in my pontoons. 1 for 304 with 914's (bought them with these in them) and one for when i mounted my boots at 324 with 916's.
    i got new boots and my bsl is 314 and they don't go tight enough for my new boots (friend said the indicator line in the window wasn't quite in the middle, so they might pre release, but would probably work, though i should remount to be safe). can i just move my bindings to the original holes (304) and max them out for my 314 bsl boots? don't feel like putting a third pair of holes in them...

    i realize that this will put my mid sole mount 1/2 cm to a full 1 cm back of the line, but on the pontoons i don't think it should matter that much. thoughts?

    There is no "indicator window" on the 916. You set the forward pressure by setting the worm screw flush with the back of the track. Only 914 and lower have an arrow and a "window", and on these, sometimes the arrow doesn't go in the middle, it willl either be near the front or near the back, either being OK in this instance. Then it comes down to personal preference, some peeps like to crank thier forward pressure. I think this results in less elasticity and compromised retention so I try to run it where it's supposed to be and err on the lighter side in the case of tab adjjust heels.
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