sweetness, vin. although i can't believe you went over one of my favorite graphics of all time.![]()
sweetness, vin. although i can't believe you went over one of my favorite graphics of all time.![]()
it was partly cause rossi refused to warranty these and in my own little way sending a middle finger to rossi, not that they would care but it made me feel better.
fighting gravity on a daily basis
WhiteRoom Skis
Handcrafted in Northern Vermont
www.whiteroomcustomskis.com
Ummm... did you see what my skis looked like before this little project? Don't know about your sense of aesthetics, but to me those things were damn ugly.Originally Posted by roorfan
But hell, if you thought they were pretty then shoot me a PM. I've got a sister who's in need of a date. Hell, at least I guess she does, haven't spoken to her in a while.... we've kept her in the closet for the last year or so. Turning the mailman to stone was the last straw.....![]()
My dog did not bite your dog, your dog bit first, and I don't have a dog.
Originally Posted by Will
Beautiful pic of my favroite mountains.
Chocolate? This is doodoo, BABY!
This thread still rules, thanks for the info guys.
And well done.
Thrutchworthy Production Services
Just adding that I used a slightly different process.
I used blue 3M painter's tape to block off the edges and base. I sanded the original topsheets a bunch, but I didn't sand between layers of paint. (Had to sand to get rid of that retarded "safety pin" dimple in the topsheet. I'd like to trade the rivest out for something plan, but I don't have a rivet gun. Any thoughts?)
I've tried Krylon Fusion before, and I think it's OK.
I prefer using Belton -- sorta tough to lay your hands on in the States, but it's really high-quality graffiti art stuff. I also think Spanish (original) Montana would work well as it lays a super thick coat -- even better than the German Montana.
I layed down about 5 light (*light!*) layers. I also hit it with two coats of the clear coat -- I think that's the key.
Here are the results (the "Stealth Vicious") after skiing on them for about 5 days:
I love the way they ski for certain situations (BC, tight/steep/narrow), but I couldn't stand the graphics.
They've stood up well throughout the season -- I had about 30-40 days on this pair. Could use a minor touch-up, but nothing major. The tendency with the spray paint is to go heavy, but the many lighter coats do the trick.
PS The Belton paint has a much creamier finish than the Krylon stuff...
Out of curiosity, what would stop you from actually putting some sort of hard laminate over your paint job instead of some clear coat?
That would be cool (and better/longer-lasting, I would think). I was contemplating this as I was in the hardware store the other day.Originally Posted by mc_roon
Is there a hard laminate you would recommend?
They had some spray-on hard enamel finishes, but none were clear, if I recall correctly.
I think the hard laminate would add to the durability, but it would change the texture (and I dig the Belton texture) -- that's a fair trade-off, though.
I'd be psyched for a recommendation and would probably try it as I'll likely touch-up the skis in the next few weeks (read: still injured & still unable to get out and do stuff I like).
i have no idea about what you would use, but i think i am going to check it out as well. How would you bond it to the ski?Originally Posted by upallnight
Unsure...but I imagined it to be something sprayed or brushed on (brushed would look poor) that would be akin to an ultra-thick clearcoat layer.Originally Posted by mc_roon
I've been rocking the multiple light layers of clearcoat, too, and it's always helped protect designs (and skis)... but something thicker yet clear would be even better. I'm always open to it.
Do you guys think it would be possible to do any kind of detailed graphics on skis that would last?
Salt, Sweat, Sugar on the asphalt
Here is an old pair of v-pros I painted. I used the auto spray-paint they sell at walmart, with a bunch of really light coats like upallnight. I also put on a few coats of clearcoat (same wal mart auto paint brand). I've only put a few days on them so far but they are holding up really well.
UAN - I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full...
A question about the belton paint. I found a supplier for it here: http://www.artprimo.com/belton_molotow_spray_paint.php
But I was wondering a few things:
How many coats did you use (and how many cans?)
Which type of paint was it? (CoversALL or Molotow Premium)
Which clearcoat did you use?
I have some 189 maden's that I pretty much beat to shit last year. After repairing/sealing the several large chunks of delam'd topsheet, they've gone from a badass black-and-eddie to a scuffed grey-and-tan-urethane. I figure i might as well try.
i like the molotow premium and haven't personally used the coversall and don't know anyone who does. (which is not to say that it's not a great product...) it's probably formulated for getting a wall ready prior to painting (only offered in black and chrome), so i'm guessing it's an extra thick formula to prime an area with one pass. could be similar to the spanish montana, which i think that would also work well...it's super thick. (i think it'd work better than german montana.)
that said, i prefer many light coats to one thick coat. i put down maybe 8-10 layers (light!). consistency is the key. the first few layers you put down will look like nothing if you've done them right. the temptation is to be heavy-handed and wait until you see some results on the cavas/wall/ski before moving on, which is fast but wrong.
i use less than a can for painting a pair, but it's easy to waste the paint. you might want to have at least one backup can, if only for touch-ups.
not sure about that supplier, but it's relatively rare to find someone to sell you individual cans of the premium european lines of paint. the montana distributor used to require a minimum order of 6 cans years ago, and i think they might have bumped it up to 12 or 24. if you can get singles, that's a good deal (if shipping doesn't kill the order and make it way too pricey).
what color are you looking for? i may be able to help.
Regarding the laminate question...couldn't you just use some of that special contact paper type stuff that they sell for cars? It's just a clear plastic sheet that you cut to fit and stick it on your car (or in this case ski).
when i was growing up, east coast shops used to sell the clear plastic sheet as a way to protect the graphics of your new investment. forgot what they used to ask/charge, but i know i had it on the first pair of skis i ever bought.
i just use a regular spray-on clearcoat.
ya, you can use high quality vinyl from a sign shop. stuff that you see on the side of trucks. a friend owns a sign shop and has used it on his snowboards...his graphics are pretty sweet. not sure how they'd hold up on skis w/ the edge from the other ski constantly hitting it.
I still love this thread.
A couple of notes on the Ski Saver tape: It looks great when you put it on, but once it starts getting chipped/peeled/torn, it starts to look crappy. In a lot of cases, it turns yellowish relatively quickly (a couple of seasons). Not sure why - might have something to do with storage conditions (direct sunligh, heat, etc.). Lastly, if you want to take it off it's kind of a pain-in-th-ass - the glue is tough and seems to actually eat some topsheet material.
I wonder how difficult it would be to glue some oak/spruce/birch, etc. veneer to the tops.
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